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Ascent of Mont Blanc (4810 m) via the classic route of the south-east ridge in the Savoyard Alps, France, on July 18-19, 2008.

Savoy Alps, France,

July 18-19, 2008

Climbing Passport

  1. Savoy Alps, France
  2. Mont Blanc, Southeast ridge, via the classic route.
  3. Estimated difficulty: 2A.
  4. Route type: snow and ice climb.
  5. Elevation gain: approximately 1610 m (3200–4810).
  6. Leadership: Dusharin Ivan Trofimovich — Master of Sports, 1st category;
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Report on the ascent made by a team from Moscow, Tomsk and Omsk Region to Mont Blanc 4810 m via Innominata route, category 5B.

Report

On the Ascent of the Combined Team from Moscow, Tomsk, and Omsk Region to Mont Blanc 4810 m

via the Central Counterfort of the Southeast Face with the Eccles Pass, Innominata Route Presumably 5B Category of Difficulty Smailkina S.V. — Team Leader Prilepskaya N.E. Gorodetskaya O.A.

Climbing Team Members

  1. Smailkina Svetlana Vladimirovna, Master of Sports, Tomsk. Coach — Sapunova Yu.V. Phone: +7 923 409 10 17. Email: talery@mail.ru
  2. Team Leader — Prilepskaya Natalia Evgenievna, Master of Sports. Coach — Kuznetsova E.V.
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Report on the ascent of the MEI Climbers and Mountaineers Club team to Urrielu Peak via the "Winter Dreams" route, category 6B complexity.

Moscow Alpine Championship 2011. Technical Climbing Category

Climbing Report

Report on the ascent of Picu Urriellu (Naranjo de Bulnes) 2519 m by the team from the MPEI Alpine Club and Climbing School via the Northwest Wall, category 6B, route "Sueños de Invierno" (Winter Dreams) by José Luis García Gallego and Miguel Ángel Díaz, March 1 – May 8, 1983 (69 days) October 5, 2011

Climbing Details

  1. Cantabrian Mountains, Picos de Europa region, Spain.
  2. Picu Urriellu 2519 m, (Naranjo de Bulnes) via Northwest Wall (route "Sueños de Invierno")
  3. Proposed category: 6B
  4. Route type: rock climbing
  5. Height difference: 470 m
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Report on the ascent of the "Polytechnic" mountaineering team to the summit of Chapelle de la Glière via the southern ridge, a Category 3B climb.

Report

On the ascent of Chapelle de la Glière peak, category 3B, by the "Polytechnic" mountaineering club team on July 29, 2018.

I. Ascent Report

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderMikhail Vladimirovich Lobanov, 2nd sports rank
1.2Full name, sports rank of participantsAlexey Alexeyevich Belyaev, 2nd sports rank, Yulia Alexandrovna Belyaeva, 2nd sports rank
1.3Full name of the coachVladimir Alexandrovich Molodozhen
1.4Organization"Polytechnic" mountaineering club
2. Characteristics of the ascent object
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Report on the ascent of the Russian team to Mount McKinley (6194 m) via the West Buttress in 1998.

Passport

  1. High-altitude technical class
  2. Alaska, Alaska Range
  3. Peak McKinley (Denali) 6194 m via West Counterforce
  4. Proposed category of complexity — 5B
  5. Elevation gain — 4000 m, length — 26 km, average steepness of main part — 20°
  6. Ice screws used — 15 pcs., anchors — 2 pcs.
  7. Team's travel days — 8 (ascent), 3 (descent)
  8. Overnights (total) — 15 on snow-ice platforms
  9. Team captain — Yanochkin V. I. (MSMK)
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Report on the ascent of the Chelyabinsk Region Alpine Federation team to the summit of McKinley via the West Rib in 2008.

Chelyabinsk Region Alpinism Federation High-Altitude Technical Climbing Category

Report

on the ascent to the summit of McKinley, 6196 m, via West Rib approximately 5B category of difficulty

Climbing Passport

  1. Competition class: Russian Championship, high-altitude technical class
  2. Region — Alaska, Alaska Range;
  3. Summit — McKinley 6196 m;
  4. Ascent route: via West Rib;
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First ascent of the Southern Ridge of Pik Voennyh Topografov (6873 m) in Chinese Tien Shan, rated 5B-6A.

  1. High-altitude and technical class
  2. Central Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Tau ridge, from the south (China).
  3. Peak Voennykh Topografov, 6873 m, via the south ridge (first ascent).
  4. Cat. diff.: 5B–6A (approximately)
  5. Height difference: ascent 4400–6873 m — 2473 m, descent 6873–4600 m — 2273 m. Total length — ascent — 4930 m (fixed ropes — 4130 m on ascent). Length of sections with 5–5+(6) cat. diff. — approximately 1340 m, 4 cat. diff. — approximately 1720 m, horizontal sections of the ridge — 1620 m. Average slope of the route — 40°, above the horizontal part of the ridge — 50–55°,
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Report on the first ascent of a 6A category route on the east face of Grosvenor (6376 m) in Eastern Tibet.

Report on the First Ascent of Grosvenor Peak via the East Face, Presumably Category 6A 2011 Russian Mountaineering Championship in the High-Altitude Technical Class.

  1. Region — Eastern Tibet, Sichuan Province, China
  2. Grosvenor Peak (Grosvenor), 6376 m, ascent via the East Face
  3. Proposed category: 6A, first ascent
  4. Route type: Combined
  5. Route elevation gain: 1080 m Route length: 1735 m
  • Length of 2nd category sections — 700 m
  • 4th category — 190 m
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Report on the first ascent of Kashkar peak (6435 m) via the North Ridge (ascent) and East Ridge (descent), rated as 4B-5A category of difficulty.

11.3.5

Report

On the ascent (traverse) of Kashkar Peak (Koshkar, Kochkarbashi) 6435 m

via the northern ridge (ascent)–eastern ridge (descent) 4B–5A category of difficulty.

(First ascent)

China, Tian Shan, in the southern spur of Pobeda (Tomur) Peak, Kokshaal-Tau ridge, dividing the Temirsu (to the west) and Chonteren (to the east) glaciers. On the traverse, the following points (peaks, gendarmes) were passed:

  • 5550 m
  • 5620 m
  • 5650 m
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Description of the ascent to the summit of Kongur (7719 m) via the northwest slope and north ridge, made in 2004 by a team led by Valery Shamalo.

11.3.6

Ascent Certificate

  1. Region: Eastern Pamir, China, Karayalak gorge, section 11.3 of the classification table.
  2. Peak name: Kongur, 7719 m, route: via NW slope and N ridge.
  3. Proposed - 6A category of complexity, first ascent, 2nd overall ascent.
  4. Route type: ice-snow.
  5. Route elevation gain: approx. 4000 m. Route length: approx. 11500 m. Length of sections with 5th category of complexity: 17 m. Average steepness:
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