Activity Feed
Route Description: траверс
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to the summit of Uroosvati via the Eastern slope, complexity category 2B, with a detailed analysis of the sections and the nature of the terrain.
Участok R0–R1. 200 m, 35° to the brow on the left to avoid crevasses. Deep snow. Участok R1–R2. Slope steepness increases to 45°, 150 m. Участok R2–R3. Steepness increases to 80°, 40 m. Protection using ice axes. Участok R3–R4. Labyrinth among seracs in deep snow, 200–300 m. Bridges! 7–10 m walls are encountered. Entering a hollow. Участok R4–R5. 300 m, gentle slope in the hollow. Entering under the northern slopes of Urusvati. Участok R5–R6: Bergschrund. Passing at the most convenient spot under an overhanging lower ice wall, 7 m, 90°. Участok R6–R7: 45°, 70 m, deep snow. Reaching the ridge. Участok R7–R8:
- 50 m along the ridge to the pre-summit ascent.
- The ridge abuts against the slope.
Route Description: СВ гребню
SSummitMateDescription of the first ascent to the summit named after G.I. Choros-Gurkina (3350 m) along the north-eastern ridge, category 1B, Altai, Katunsky ridge.
I. Climbing category: snow and ice 2. Climbing area: Altai, Katunsky ridge, Koni-Airy gorge 3. Peak: G.I. Choros-Gurkina (3350 m), via the north-eastern ridge 4. Proposed category: 1B, first ascent 5. Elevation gain from the col: 550 m 6. Average slope: 25–35° 7. Total length: 700 m 8. Pitons driven: 9. Climbing time: 8–9 hours. Days — 1 10. Climbing participants:
Route Description: СВ гребню
SSummitMateA route to the summit along the northwestern counterfort, category of complexity 3B, with a detailed description and photographs.
M 1:50
000
Route Description: Ю гребню
SSummitMateAscent documentation for Peak 60 let Pobedy in Altai, category 1B complexity, a combined route of 1000 m with a height difference of 400 m.
Ascent Passport
Area — Altai, Katunsky ridge. Summit — Peak 60 let Pobedy. Route — combined. Estimated category of difficulty — 1B. Height difference — 400 m. Distance — 1000 m. Use of technical means — ice axes, crampons, rope. Travel time — 7–8 hours from overnight stay. Leader — Shumilov V. D., instructor cert. No. 697 Participants:
- Kavunenko V. D. — Master of Sports of Russia International Class
- Tinin Yu. P. — Candidate for Master of Sports
- Odintsov Yu. F. — 1st sports category
- Odintsov F. Yu. — badge "Alp. Rossii"
- Bedarev M. V. — badge "Alp. Rossii"
- Zhukov I. V. — unranked
- Zhukova A. I. — unranked
Route Description: С гребню
SSummitMateClimbing Mount Everest via the classic route through the South Col in Nepal, describing the challenges and key moments of the expedition.
6.5.2017
Route Description: С гребню
SSummitMateAscent to the summit 3320 via SW edge, combined route 1/2A category of complexity.
3320 m a.s.l. syndrome (EC) (1/2A)
Route Description: По леднику с севера
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of a route to a 3,548 m peak in the Katunsky ridge, Altai Republic, including a description of the path, technical elements, and recommendations.
Report
on the first ascent route to the summit 3548 m a.s.l. It is proposed to be named after Tomsk climber Krylov Stanislav. Altai Republic, Ust-Koksinsky district, Katunsky ridge via the glacier from the north 2B cat. difficulty (approximately) (ice climbing) by the team of Tomsk Alpine Federation March 20, 2022 Participants: Temerev I.M. Khasanov N.A.
Route Description: Ю склону
SSummitMateDescription of a new Category IIb route to the summit of Aktru (4044 m) via the South Face, Altai, with a detailed breakdown of sections and technical details.
Ascent Record
- Altai, Aktru gorge, section 1.
- Aktru peak, 4044 m, via the South slope.
- Proposed category: 2B, first ascent.
- Route type: combined.
- Elevation gain: 500 m, distance: 700 m, average steepness of the main part: 45°.
- Pitons used: 2 rock, 2 ice.
- Team's total climbing hours: 5 hours.
- Leader: Afanasiev A.E., Candidate Master of Sports. Team members: Shakleev V.I., Candidate Master of Sports, Morozov V.V., Candidate Master of Sports.
Route Description: В гребню с л. Актру-лев.
SSummitMateDescription of the route to the summit of Aktru via the eastern ridge from the Big Aktru glacier, complexity category 3A.
Peak Aktru, via the East ridge from Bolshoy Aktru glacier, cat. III
From the camp... From the moraine lake, move along the edge of the Bolshoy Aktru glacier along the slopes of Stazerov Peak. The glacier is heavily crevassed, so move in rope teams until the couloir between Stazerov Peak and the large gendarme on the East ridge of Aktru Peak. Climb the couloir through the ruined rocks on the left-hand side of the couloir and reach the lowest point of the East ridge (2–2.5 hours). Follow the easy ridge to the large gendarme (control cairn) and continue in the direction of the summit until the pre-summit rise. The snowy-icy rise is the key section of the route (time 2–2.5 hours). Before the snowy-icy rise, there is a gendarme with a 5-meter rock wall (set up belay). The snowy-icy ridge goes up like a sickle. Move along the left part of the ridge. In the lower part, there is snow on the ridge, which
Route Description: СВ стене
SSummitMateAscent to Mt. Aktru via the eastern wall (4A cat. of difficulty) through rocky islands and icy slopes, route description and key obstacles.
в. АКТРУ, east wall, 4A cat. dif. (according to the report on the first ascent, Tsybkin L.P., July 1959) Approach from GMS Aktru through the Uчитель pass to the Kuрумду gorge. Crossing the Kuрумду icefall:
- Crossed from the right along the edge of the rocks в. Kuрумду in teams.
- Time to cross the icefall — 1 h. Overnight stay on the scree under the wall в. Актру. Time from GMS Aktru to the overnight stay — 7 h. The route to the summit goes along the rocky ridge, divided by snow and ice sections into five rocky islands. The height of the wall — 800 m.