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Route Description: СЗ гребню
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to Makalu (8463 m) via the Northwest Ridge, category III-IV (or 5B in Russian grading, ED in IFAS grading), completed in 1996 without the use of oxygen.
Passport
I. Class of ascents — high-altitude technical 2. Region — Himalayas 3. Peak MAKALU (8463 m) via NW ridge, combined route 4. Estimated category of difficulty — 5B 5. Elevation gain: 2663 m (5800–8463 m), distance — 6200 m Distance of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 900 m Average steepness — 35° 6. Pitons driven: rock 43, chocks 52, ice screws 18, snow stakes 12
Route Description: СЗ гребню
SSummitMateReport on the ascent of Makalu (8463 m) via the Northwest Ridge, category 6A, with a description of the tactics and technical details of the route.
Ascent Passport
- Category — High-altitude technical
- Himalayas, Barun river gorge
- Makalu (8463 m) via Northwest Ridge
- Proposed category: 6A
- Elevation gain: 2663 m; Distance: 7950 m. Average slope: main part of the route (above bergschrund) — 27°, entire route — 20° | 6. Pitons driven: | rock | chocks | ice | snow | | :----------------: | :--: | :----: | :--: | :--: | | 15 | 20 | 30 | 12 | 0 |
Route Description: З стене
SSummitMateFirst ascent of the west wall of Makalu (8463 m) in alpine style by a combined route of 6B cat. of diff.
Passport
- High-altitude class.
- Central Himalayas, Main Himalayan Range.
- Makalu Peak (8463 m) via the West Face.
- Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Elevation gain: 2663 m; route length: 3920 m. Length of sections:
- 5th category of difficulty — 530 m;
- 6th category of difficulty — 640 m. Average steepness:
Route Description: с севера
SSummitMateAscent of Mt. Manaslu (Himalayas, 8163 m) via the classic northern route, category 5A, made in September 2013.
Ascent Log
- Region of ascent: Himalayas, sec. 10.1 RCRTM 2011
- Mt. Manaslu, 8163 m, from the north ("classic")
- Difficulty category: 5A.
- Route characteristics — ice and snow.
- Elevation gain: 3363 m Route length: approx. 10,000 m Average slope: main part of the route — 30°; entire route — 25°
- Pitons left on the route: none
- Team's moving hours: 27 h, 3.5 days.
Route Description: с севера
SSummitMateReport on the team's ascent to the summit of Manaslu (8163 m) from the north via the classic route of 5A category of difficulty.
Russian Alpine Championship
High-altitude category
Report
ON THE ASCENT TO MANASLU (8163 m) FROM THE NORTH ("CLASSIC") SNOW-ICE ROUTE, 5A category of difficulty, BY THE "FALENOBLASTI" TEAM, FROM 23.09.2023 TO 28.09.2023
2023
I. Ascent Passport
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, sports rank of the leader | Dusheiko Alexander Sergeevich, 1st sports rank |
Route Description: с севера
SSummitMateReport on the ascent of a team to the summit of Manaslu (8163 m) from the north via a snow-ice route of 5A category of difficulty.
RUSSIAN ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP
in the high-altitude class
REPORT
ON THE ASCENT TO MANASLU PEAK (8163) FROM THE NORTH ("CLASSIC") SNOW-ICE ROUTE, CATEGORY 5A DIFFICULTY, BY THE "FA LENOBLASTI" TEAM FROM SEPTEMBER 23, 2023 TO SEPTEMBER 28, 2023
I. Ascent Passport
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader | Dusheiko Alexander Sergeevich, 1st sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants | Kruglov Oleg Sergeevich, 1st sports rank, Cherdantsev Alexey Igorevich, 1st sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full Name of Coach | Dusheiko Alexander Sergeevich, 1st sports rank |
Route Description: СВ склону
SSummitMateFirst ascent of Manaslu Peak (8163 m) North-East slope by the Kazakhstan team of the ЦСКА of 6A category of complexity.
- Central Himalayas, Manaslu-Himal region, Gorkha, Buri-Gandaki river gorge.
- Manaslu peak (8163 m), North-East slope
- Submitted — 6A category of complexity, first ascent
- Route character — combined
- Height difference of the route — 2963 m Route length — 4754 m. Length of sections:
- V category of complexity — 55 m
- VI category of complexity — 4 m. Average steepness:
- main part of the route (sections) — 68°
- entire route — 42°
Route Description: ЮВ ребру Ю стены
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of Nuptse East (7804m) via the South Wall Southeast Ridge, category 6B.
Ascent Passport
- Class — high-altitude.
- Ascent area — Nepalese Himalayas, Nuptse-Lhotse massif, Nuptse-Lhotse couloir.
- Peak name — Nuptse East (Nuptse East), 7804 m, South-East ridge of the South Face.
- Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Height difference — 2400 m, route length — 4500 m. Length of sections with 6th category of difficulty — 1200 m. Average steepness:
- main part of the route — South-East ridge 65°;
- Summit Tower 60°. Overall route (from bergschrund) — 55°.
Route Description: С склону и Ю ребру
SSummitMateFirst ascent via the Southeast Edge of R2 peak (6251 m) in the Himalayas, rated 6A, a combined route.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent area — Himalayas, Manaslu area, Lidannda gorge.
- Peak P-2, height 6251 m, via SE ridge
- Proposed — 6A cat. dif., first ascent
- Route character: combined.
- Route elevation gain: 1254 m (by altimeter) Route length: 1485 m. Length of sections: V cat. dif. — 385 m, VI cat. dif. — 350 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 76°, total route — 70°.
- "Hooks" left on the route:
Route Description: ЮВ ребру
SSummitMateFirst ascent of R-2 peak (6251 m) in the Himalayas via the SE ridge, 6A grade, combined route.
Ascent Passport
Climbing area — Himalayas, Manaslu area, Liddanda gorge. 2. Peak R-2, height (6251 m), via SE ridge 3. Proposed — 6A category of difficulty, first ascent 4. Route character: combined. 5. Height difference of the route: 1254 m (by altimeter) Route length: 1485 m. Length of sections:
- V category of difficulty — 385 m,
- VI category of difficulty — 350 m. Average steepness:
- main part of the route — 76°,