Ascent Passport

Class — high-altitude.
Ascent area — Nepalese Himalayas, Nuptse-Lhotse massif, Nuptse-Lhotse couloir.
Peak name — Nuptse East (Nuptse East), 7804 m, South-East ridge of the South Face.
Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
Height difference — 2400 m, route length — 4500 m.

Length of sections with 6th category of difficulty — 1200 m. Average steepness:

main part of the route — South-East ridge 65°;
Summit Tower 60°.

Overall route (from bergschrund) — 55°.

Hooks left on the route: rock — 30; cams — 7; ice — 10; bolted — 6. No previously driven hooks were used.
Team's working hours: preliminary processing of the ridge up to 6500 m — 90 h, 11 days. summit push — 38 h, 5 days.
Team members: Valery Pavlovich Babanov, International Master of Sports in mountaineering, Yuri Vladimirovich Koshelenko, International Master of Sports in mountaineering
Coach — self-coached.
Approach to the route: September 22, 2003. Summit push: 8:00, October 29, 2003. Reach the summit: 19:30, November 2, 2003. Return to Base Camp: 17:00, November 4, 2003.

Nuptse East. General photo.

Nuptse East. Technical photo. 7804 m.

From: «Yuri Koshelenko» y.koshelenko@mail.ru To: farrus@roc.ru farrus@roc.ru Date: Sunday, November 9, 2003 1:00:05 PM Subject: Report for the Championship Folder: Outbox/lvd@risk.ru

Ascent Passport

High-altitude mountaineering class.
Nepalese Himalayas, Nuptse-Lhotse massif, Nuptse-Lhotse couloir.
Nuptse East (East) 7804 m, South-East ridge of the South Face.
Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
Height difference: 2400 m; length 4500 m.

Length of 6th category of difficulty 1200 m. Average steepness:

Main part of the route (South-East ridge) — 65°;
Tower — 60°;
Overall route (from bergschrund) — 55°.

Hooks left on the route: rock 30; cams 7; ice 10; bolted. No previously driven hooks were used.
Team's working hours: preliminary processing of the ridge up to 6500 m: 90 h; 11 days. Summit push: 38 h; 5 days.
Valery Pavlovich Babanov, International Master of Sports in mountaineering. Yuri Vladimirovich Koshelenko, International Master of Sports in mountaineering.
Self-coached.
Approach to the route at 8:00, October 29, 2003. Reach the summit 19:30, November 2, 2003. Return to Base Camp: 17:00, November 4, 2003.

To the Presidium of the FAR

From V. Babanov and Yu. Koshelenko

Request

"Please extend the deadline for our team to submit the report for the 2003 Russian Mountaineering Championship in the High-Altitude class, due to the fact that we managed to complete the ascent only on November 2, 2003. This deadline is determined by the enormous laboriousness of the route and the weather conditions in the fall of this year in the Everest-Lhotse-Nuptse area. We request to accept the report on the ascent upon our team's return to Russia (Moscow)".

Members:

V. Babanov
Yu. Koshelenko

Main Nuptse 7859 m. Nuptse East 7804 m. Nuptse East II

Section	Length, m	Category of difficulty	Steepness, °
0–1	250	2–4	40–60
1–2	20	5	80
2–3	20	4	55
3–4	60	4–5	55–65
4–5	50	3–4	50
5–6	120	3–4	45–55
6–7	100	5–6	75
7–8	80	2–3	30
8–9	30	5	90
9–10	50	5.1	75–80
10–11	20	5+	70–80
11–12	40	5–6	70
12–13	10	2	20
13–14	50	5.2–5.3	75–80

Section	Length, m	Category of difficulty	Steepness, °
14–15	60	4–5	60
15–16	100	4–6	65
16–17	30	5	65
17–18	30	5–6	80
18–19	120	5	70
19–20	150	5–6	70
20–21	180	4–5	60
21–22	120	4–5	55

Camp 6200 m.

Section	Length, m	Category of difficulty	Steepness, °
21–22	40	5.3	85–90
22–23		6	80–90
23–24		4–5	50–60
24–25		5.2	75–80
25–26		4–5	60
26–27		5–6	70–95
27–28		4	50
28–29		5	85
29–30		4–5	60

Section	Length, m	Category of difficulty	Steepness, °
30–31	40	5–6.2	70–80
31–32	40	5.2	80
32–33	80	5–6	75–85
33–34	15	5.3	90
34–35	60	5.3	75–90
35–36	30	5.3–5.4	90
36–37	20	6	75
37–38	50	6	75
38–39	30	6	85
39–40	20	5–6	70
40–41	20	4–5	70
41–42	60	5	75
42–43	130	5–6	70–90

![img-94.jpeg]({"width":328,"height":231,"format":"Jpeg","uri":"https://summitx.info/media↗

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Ascent Passport

Ascent Passport

To the Presidium of the FAR

Request

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