Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area — Himalayas, Manaslu area, Lidannda gorge.
2. Peak P-2, height 6251 m, via SE ridge
3. Proposed — 6A cat. dif., first ascent
4. Route character: combined.
5. Route elevation gain: 1254 m (by altimeter)

Route length: 1485 m. Length of sections: V cat. dif. — 385 m, VI cat. dif. — 350 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 76°, total route — 70°.

6. "Hooks" left on the route: total — 4; incl. bolted — 0. Hooks used on the route: 96, incl. artificial aids — 13 Placement elements used: 129, incl. artificial aids — 16 Ice screws used: 29

   • stationary bolted — 0, incl. artificial aids — 0
   • removable bolted — 0, incl. artificial aids — 0 Total artificial protection points (artificial aids) used: 29

7. Team's climbing hours: 45 h, 5 days

8. Leader: Bublik Sergey Yuryevich, MSMSK

   Participants:

   • Shimko Nikolay Nikolayevich, CMS

9. Coach: Self-coached

10. Departure to the route: 4:30, October 19, 2012 Summit reached: 11:30, October 23, 2012 Return to Base Camp: 21:15, October 23, 2012 Overall photo of the summit

REDPOINT team route (Bublik S. — Shimko N.), 2012

Odessites' attempt in 2007:

• Moguila V.
• Lavrinenko A.
• Tsushko T.
• Klebansky V.

Reconnaissance expedition attempt in 2004:

• Kovalev S.
• Lavrinenko A.
• Bublik S.
• Verbitsky O.

Summit October 23, 2012, 11:30

October 19 – R0–R1. From the bivouac under the wall, approach the base of the large couloir. Up the snowy couloir at 35° for 200 m, staying on its right side. Avalanches come down the couloir! 200 m, 35°, III.

R1–R2. Turn left from the couloir and go straight up the ice-snow slope at 45–60° along the ice-rock boundary towards the ice "rivulet" with steepness up to 90°. 50 m, 60°, IV–V (W12).

R2–R3. Bypass the ice "rivulet" on the left via mixed terrain to the wall with the ice "rivulet". 120 m, 70–80°, V (M4).

R3–R4. Enter the ice "rivulet": mixed terrain 10 m — M5, 85°; then a hissing ice icicle with very thin ice, insurance organization is problematic W16, 85–90°, 35 m. 45 m, 90°, VI+.

R4–R5. Further up the ice "rivulet" at 70–80°, overcoming an ice step 10 m, 90°, insurance organization is problematic. 40 m, 90°, V (W15).

R5–R6. Move towards the rock wall along a steep firn couloir, insurance organization is problematic. There's a good spot for a bivouac here. 70–80°, IV+ (W13), 35 m. October 20 – R6–R7. From the bivouac, move up the mixed section 20 m, M6, 80°; insurance is provided by medium-sized anchor hooks, then an ice section 25 m, W14, 70–85°. 70–85°, V+, 40 m.

R7–R8. Move along thin, formed ice, ice screws enter less than halfway. Station under a 4-meter overhang. 80–85°, VI (W15), 40 m.

R8–R9. Move along the firn slope towards the rock ridge. 75°, IV (W13), 35 m. R9–R10. From the station, straight up a complex mixed section 10 m, VI (M6), 90°, then up and to the right along the ice slope to approach the base of a large rock bastion W13, 70°, 30 m. 70–90°, IV–VI, 40 m.

R10–R11. Further up complex rocks with mixed sections. 85°, VI (6c(+), M6) 45 m. R11–R12. Move towards the large couloir along mixed terrain. 70°, IV (M4), 35 m. R12–R13. Move up the couloir with steep, thin, formed ice towards the rocks. Safe spot for a bivouac. 80–85°, V+ (W15–16), 80 m. October 21 – R13–R14. From the bivouac, move up and to the left along a complex mixed section. 80–90°, VI (M6), 40 m.

R14–R15. Move up a snow slope of medium steepness 10 m to a sharp ridge, then along the ridge towards the bastion. 45°, IV+, 40 m.

R15–R16. Further up, climbing an internal corner with a small number of artificial aids A1, towards a snow ledge. 80°, VI, 40 m.

R16–R17. Approach the rock bastion along the snow. Climb the bastion straight up. Insurance organization is problematic. 75°, V+, 35 m.

R17–R18. Then, up an internal corner with a crevice, exiting onto steep "ram's foreheads", insurance is problematic, provided using anchor hooks. 80°, VI(A2), 45 m.

R18–R19. Further along the ice slope with rock walls to approach the rock wall. Spot for an overnight stay. 60°, IV+, 40 m. October 22 – R19–R20. From the bivouac, move left along the ledge 8 m to the base of a dead-end crevice, up the crevice using artificial aids with complex belays (possibly free climbing, estimated difficulty 7b/7c). 85–90°, VI+ (A3, 6c), 45 m.

R20–R21. Climbing rocks with mixed sections. 70°, IV+ (5b, M3), 40 m.

R21–R22. Straight up complex rocks, lower part 20 m, passed using complex artificial aids (A3), then complex climbing (6c) to a flattening (possibly free climbing, estimated difficulty 7c (+)). 95°, VI (A3, 6c), 40 m.

R22–R23. Move along ice-mixed terrain towards an internal corner. 70°, IV (M4), 40 m.

R23–R24. Rock-mixed section. Exit to the ice slope via an internal corner. 75–90°, VI (M4, A2), 30 m.

R24–R25. Move along the snow slope towards the summit. 60°, IV, 40 m.

R25–R26. From the summit couloir, traverse left along the snow slope to the overnight stay spot, located under an overhang. 60°, III, 50 m. October 23 – R26–R27. Ice-mixed section 70°, IV (W13), M4, 35 m.

R27–R28. Traverse right along rocks of medium complexity towards the couloir. 70°, IV, 40 m. R28–R29. Move up the ice couloir straight up, overcoming steps with steepness up to 90°. 80°, V+ (W15), 40 m.

R29–R30. Up the couloir to the summit. 70°, IV (W13), 40 m.

Route sections

• R29–R30
• R28–R29
• R26–R27
• R24–R25
• R23–R24
• R22–R23
• R21–R22
• R20–R21
• R19–R20
• R18–R19
• R17–R18
• R16–R17
• R15–R16
• R14–R15
• R13–R14
• R12–R13
• R11–R12
• R10–R11
• R9–R10
• R8–R9
• R7–R8
• R6–R7
• R5–R6
• R4–R5
• R3–R4
• R2–R3
• R1–R2
• R0–R1