V. CHANCHAKHI VIA THE WEST RIDGE, 4B cat.

EAST RIDGE WEST RIDGE TSEI-CHANCHAKHI PASS UPPER CIRQUE OF THE NORTHERN BRANCH OF THE TSEI GLACIER TSEI-TBILISSKI PASS

The path from the sports camp of the Tsey district to the col of the Tsey-Chanchakhi pass is an initial bivouac on the plateau of the Northern branch of the Tsey Glacier. Along the snowy col, then along the steep 100–120-meter ice-snow ridge (cornices) to approach the rocky walls of the summit ice of the Eastern ridge of Chanchakhi. From the ridge, traverse 60–80 m to the right to steep slabs of medium difficulty to an internal corner. From here, ascent (pitons belay) along the rocks above medium difficulty of the 20-meter internal corner, and above, along a 60–80-meter wall. Then traverse 60–80 m to the right along simple rocks («live» stones). Along snowy rocks of medium difficulty, ascend to the shoulder area of the Eastern ridge. From the shoulder area, go up along a simple snowy ridge. Then, traverse to the right with a slight ascent along simple and medium difficulty snowy rocks («live» stones — belay) to exit onto a buttress. Along rocks above medium difficulty of the buttress (pitons belay), reach simple destroyed rocks (snowy), and ascend to the summit of Chanchakhi. From the initial bivouac on the plateau II–13 hours. Bivouac on the summit. Descent along the ascent route or along the Southern ridge. Route duration is 3–4 days.

V. CHANCHAKHI VIA EASTERN RIDGE, 4B cat.

EASTERN RIDGE WESTERN RIDGE TSEY - CHANCHAKHI PASS TSEY PASS TBILISSKI ↓

1.1. GENERAL INFORMATION 1.1.1. Route name: North face of p. Bodhona. 1.1.2. Region: Lateral Zaalaysky ridge, Pamir. 1.1.3. Route type: rock. 1.1.4. Difficulty category: 6B. 1.1.5. Route elevation gain: 1300 m. 1.1.6. Route length: 1950 m. 1.1.7. Average steepness of the route: 55°. 1.1.8. Length of sections with 6th cat. diff.: 780 m. 1.1.9. Length of sections with 5th cat. diff.: 450 m.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Tsey district
3. Peak, height, ascent route: Chančachi, 4450 m, left bastion of the NE wall (first ascent)
4. Proposed difficulty category: 6B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1000 m, route length — 1100 m, average steepness — 65°, length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 700 m
6. Number of pitons driven: for belay for aid rock 102 21 ice 6 -

Report

On the Ascent

FOR THE 1970 USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP BY THE TEAM FROM THE "TSEI" ALPINE CAMP UNDER THE CENTRAL COUNCIL OF THE "TRUD" SPORTS SOCIETY TO THE SUMMIT OF CHANCHAKHI-KHOKH (4420 m) VIA THE NORTH FACE (NORTHEAST FACE OF THE CENTRAL BASTION) (FIRST ASCENT) Team Captain: GRIGORENKO-PRIGODA Yu.I.

Team List

| № | Surname, First Name, Patronymic | Year of Birth | Rank | Place of Work and Position | Party Membership | Nationality | Home Address | a/Best Ascent and Year; b/Best Ascent in the Last 2 Years |

Ascent Log

1. Ascent classification: technical.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, "Tsey".
3. Peak, its height; ascent route: p. ChanchaKhi-khokh, 4450 m, NE wall (first ascent).
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B category.
5. Route characteristics: height difference - 1000 m, average steepness - 68°, section length - 5-6 km, technical difficulty - 800 m.
6. Pitons used: for belaying, for creating ITO: rock - 153, for creating ITO - 8, ice - 0, bolted - 0.
7. Total climbing hours - 46.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: lying down - 2, sitting - 1.
9. Surname, name, and patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualifications:

ASCENT FORM

1. Technical Climbing Category
2. Caucasus, Tsey Region
3. Chanchakhi Peak (4420 m) via North-East Face
4. Complexity Category - 5B, combined, third ascent
5. Height difference - 620 m, length - 810 m, length of sections with 5B-6 complexity category - 420 m average steepness of the main part of the route (3800–4420) - 60° of which 6 complexity category (4000–4225) - 80°

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Chan Chakhi-Khokh (4453 m) via the route: North wall - right "bastion", from August 18 to 26, 1965. By the team of Kharkov regional council of the sports society "Avangard" led by NEBORAK V.S. Mt. CHAN CHAKHI-KHOKH 4453 m.

Team Composition

Leader: NEBORAK VALENTIN STEPANOVICH, born in 1930, Ukrainian, member of the CPSU, 1st sports category in mountaineering, architect.

Participants:

GRIGORENKO-PRIGODA YURIY IVANOVICH, born in 1935, Ukrainian, non-partisan, 1st sports category in mountaineering, electrical engineer.

ASCENT REPORT

1. Category: winter ascent.
2. Central Caucasus, Adyl-SU gorge.
3. Peak Volnaya Ispaniya via the North face (Kizel's route).
4. Difficulty category: 5B.
5. Height difference — 580 m, length — 850 m, out of which 5th and 6th difficulty categories — 110 m. Average steepness — 50°.
6. Pitons used: Ice screws: 38 (0) Rock pitons: 5 (0) Existing bolted pitons on the route (6 pieces) were used for belaying.