1.1. GENERAL INFORMATION 1.1.1. Route name: North face of p. Bodhona. 1.1.2. Region: Lateral Zaalaysky ridge, Pamir. 1.1.3. Route type: rock. 1.1.4. Difficulty category: 6B. 1.1.5. Route elevation gain: 1300 m. 1.1.6. Route length: 1950 m. 1.1.7. Average steepness of the route: 55°. 1.1.8. Length of sections with 6th cat. diff.: 780 m. 1.1.9. Length of sections with 5th cat. diff.: 450 m. 1.1.10. Length of sections with 4th cat. diff.: 410 m. 1.1.11. Length of sections with 3rd cat. diff.: 250 m. 1.1.12. Length of sections with 2nd cat. diff.: 60 m. 1.1.13. Length of sections with 1st cat. diff.: 0 m. 1.1.14. Use of IT: 470 m. 1.1.15. Communication means on the route: none. 1.1.16. Travel days: 10. 1.1.17. Overnights: 9 (7 sitting, 2 on a platform). 1.1.18. Total expedition duration: 24 days. 1.1.19. Number of participants: 7. 1.1.20. Leader: Gorbienko M.M., CMS. 1.1.21. Coach: Gorbienko M.M., CMS. 1.1.22. Participants (rank, sports title): Kopeyka A. — CMS Leushin A. — CMS Zubarev S. — 1st sports rank Barinov V. — 1st sports rank Kalita M. — 1st sports rank Yakovenko I. — CMS 1.1.23. Route entry: August 22, 1978, 7:00. 1.1.24. Route exit: August 31, 1978, 16:30. 1.1.25. Time spent on the route: 10 days 9 h 30 min. 1.1.26. Time spent on the active part: 12 days. 1.1.27. Route location on the glacier: left bank of the Kaindy glacier — Muksy river valley. 1.1.28. Time when the wall is in the sun: from 7:00 to 12:00. 1.1.29. Water availability on the route: none. 1.1.30. Route condition at the time of passage: snow-covered, icy, lots of snow, ice. 1.1.31. Places for sitting/overnights on the route:

• R3–R4 (sitting overnight);
• R5–R6 (sitting overnight);
• R7–R8 (sitting overnight);
• R8–R9 (sitting overnight);
• R9–R10 (sitting overnight);
• R10–R11 (sitting overnight);
• R12–R13 (sitting overnight);
• R13–R14 (platform);
• R14–R15 (platform). 1.1.32. Belay points: pitons, nuts, friends. 1.1.33. Steepness of individual sections:
• R0–R1: 70°–80°;
• R1–R2: 70°–80°;
• R2–R3: 65°–70°;
• R3–R4: 65°–70°;
• R4–R5: 55°–60°;
• R5–R6: 55°–60°;
• R6–R7: 60°–65°;
• R7–R8: 60°–65°;
• R8–R9: 60°–65°;
• R9–R10: 55°–60°;
• R10–R11: 50°–55°;
• R11–R12: 50°–55°;
• R12–R13: 50°–55°;
• R13–R14: 55°–60°;
• R14–R15: 55°–60°.