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Route Description: траверс
Description of the traverse of Agibalova and Akritov peaks on the Sugansky ridge of the Caucasus, category of complexity 3A, length 1050 m, height difference 900 m.
- Climbing category: rock climbing
- Climbing area: Caucasus: 2.6: Sugansky Ridge
- Peak, route: traverse of Agibalova peaks (West-East towers) – Akritov.
- Estimated category of difficulty: 3A rock: semi-independent
- Route characteristics: height difference — about 900 m, route length — 1050 m, section lengths: 4th category of difficulty — 25 m, 3rd category of difficulty — 210 m, 2nd category of difficulty — 150 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 65°
- Equipment used: pitons — 4 pcs., chocks — 12 pcs., "friends" — 2 pcs.
- Number of walking hours (days): 10/1
Route Description: траверс
Traverse of Akritov and Agibalova peaks from the east, category 3B complexity, via the eastern walls, in the Sugansky ridge in the Caucasus.
Traversing p. Akritov (3705 m) — p. Agibalova (3705 m) from E.
Caucasus, Sugansky ridge
Strebejev V.N.
July 20, 2002
Passport
- Technical category
- Caucasus, Digoria, Sugansky ridge
- Traversing p. Akritov (p. 3705 m, E) — p. Agibalova (p. 3705 m, W), from E.
- Suggested — 3B cat. diff. rock
- Height difference 900 m, length 1150 m.
Route Description: С гребню
Description of the first ascent of Aikhva South peak (3731 m) via the North ridge, category 1B, in Digoria, Sugansky ridge.
Ascent Passport
- Digoria, Sugansky ridge, section number according to Classification 2.6.
- Aikhva Yuzhnaya (3731 m) – via the Northern ridge.
- Proposed 1B category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Route character — rocky.
- Route height difference – 400 m (from point R0).
Total route length – about 950 m.
Length of sections 4 – 5 m.
Average steepness:
- key sections – 60°
Route Description: левому бастиону СВ стены
Description of a new climbing route, category 5 complexity, to the summit of Laboda Eastern in the North Caucasus, ascended in 2008.
Ascent Passport
- North Caucasus, Digor gorge.
- Peak name: Laboda East, route: via the left bastion of the north-eastern wall
- Proposed - 5B category of difficulty, first ascent (since no route descriptions were found for peak Laboda East)
- Route type: combined
- Route elevation gain: 1184 m (according to the map) Route length: 2460 m. Rocky section length: 895 m. Section lengths:
- V category of difficulty – 260 m.
Route Description: Ю стене
Description of a new route, category 5A, on the South Face of Galdor Glavny Peak (4239 m) in the Sugan Range, Caucasus.
- Caucasus, Sugansky Ridge, Classification section number — 2.6.
- Galdor Glavny (4239 m); via the South Face.
- Proposed category — 5A; first ascent.
- Route character — rock.
- Route elevation gain — 420 m (by GPS). Route length — 550 m. Steepness of key sections — up to 90°. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 5 m.
- Hooks left on the route — 1. Used on the route:
Route Description: ЮВ стене
First ascent description of Galdor Glavny peak via the Eastern wall on Central Caucasus, category 5B difficulty, with a detailed route description and photographs.
Passport
1. Rock Climbing Category
- Rock Climbing Category.
- Central Caucasus. Digor Gorge.
- Main Galdor peak via the Southeast wall.
- Proposed difficulty category — 5B cat. diff., first ascent.
- Route height difference — 417 m, length — 490 m.
- Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 376 m.
- Average steepness of sections with 4–6 cat. diff. — 77.
- Of which 6 cat. diff. — 104 m with a steepness of 90–95°.
Route Description: стене Ю кф.
Description of a Category 3B route to the summit of Galdor Central via the South Counterfort wall in the Caucasus, with details on passage and safety assessment.
Galdor Centralny, 3980 m, via the South Buttress Wall, Caucasus, Sugan Range. Strebeyev V.N., August 18, 1995
Passport
1). Technical category 2). Caucasus, Digoria, Sugan Range 3). Galdor Centralny via the S buttress wall (3980) 4). Proposed — 3B cat. diff. combined 5). Height difference 1100 m, length 1300 m, section lengths:
- 3A — 3B cat. diff. — 90 m (buttress),
- 4A cat. diff. — 30 m (inner corner, "Rusty Wall").
Route Description: СЗ гребню
Ascent to the summit of Perednyaya Chotcha via the North-West ridge, category 4B difficulty level, route description and recommendations for climbers.
Fig. 58
3. Ascent to the Perednyaya Chotcha peak via the northwestern ridge — category 4B difficulty (Fig. 58)
From the Northern refuge along a log over the Khokel river and along the trail alongside the Chotcha river to the foot of the northwestern ridge — bivouac. From the Northern refuge 1–2 hours. From the bivouac along the slope and grassy ledges left-upwards under the first overhanging spur on the ridge. Bypass the spur from the left (protection through the spurs!), then right-upwards onto the ridge to a loose couloir (rockfall danger!) and along it under the 100-meter wall of the first ascent. Along the wall of the ascent:
- right — upwards 35–40 m,
- then left — upwards,
- exit onto grassy ledges (protection through the spurs, partially bolted!). Further:
Route Description: В гребню
Ascent to the peak Ertsog via the eastern ridge, category 4A, route description, recommendations for climbers and necessary equipment.
Fig.
13
Fig. 14
4. Ascent to the Ertzog peak via the eastern ridge — category 4A difficulty (see Fig. 13 and 14)
From Dombayskaya Polyana along the trail to Turiy Lake, then:
- up the moraine,
- then along the Alibek glacier (the glacier is broken, thorough belay!),
- to the left of two rocky outcrops along a steep snowy ascent to the Ertzog saddle. Bivouac location.
Route Description: диретиссиме З стены
Report on the second ascent of the direttissima of the western wall of Zub Sofrudju peak, 6A category of difficulty by the "Freeline" alpine club team from Essentuki.
Report on the second ascent by the team from the multifaceted mountaineering club "Freeline" in Essentuki
To the summit of Zub Sofruju
via the direttissima of the western wall, 6A category of difficulty Leader: Popov Mikhail Lvovich Coach: Motienko Nikolai Ilyich Essentuki 2020 Addresses: 357600, Stavropol Krai, Essentuki, Oktyabrskaya St., 434, apt. 59 Popov M.L. 89282657130