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Description of the first ascent of Peak Sabah (5300 m) via the North Face in the Pamir-Alay, made by a team of climbers from Moscow in 1985.

I. Altitude-technical category 2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge 3. Pik Sabah, 5300 m, via the North wall 4. Proposed at 6th cat. diff., first ascent 5. Elevation gain: 1500 m, length 2120 m Length of sections with 5-6 cat. diff. — 1250 m Average steepness of the wall section of the route (3800-5200 m) — 69° Sections with steepness of:

  • 85° — 4130-4360 m, 4420-4470 m (6th cat. diff.)
  • 80° — 4360-4420 m, 4760-4870 m
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Report on the first ascent via the center of the North wall of SvaroG peak (5005 m), 6B category of complexity, located in the Ashat gully of the Turkestan Range.

Russian Mountaineering Championship

high-altitude technical class 2021

REPORT

on the ascent to the summit of Svarog, 5005 m, via the center of the North face 6B category of difficulty, first ascent by a combined team from Krasnoyarsk Krai, Novosibirsk, and Moscow For the period 10.08.2021–14.08.2021 2021

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Description of a new technically challenging Category III route up the center of the East Face of Peak 4520 (Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range), climbed by a team of mountaineers in 1992.

PASSPORT

  1. Class — Technical
  2. Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su valley
  3. Peak 4520 (1000th anniversary of the Baptism of Rus) via the center of the Eastern wall.
  4. Assumed 6B category of difficulty (first ascent).
  5. Height difference — 1370 m, length — 1935 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category — 770 m. Average steepness of the route — 70°.
  6. Pitons hammered: | rock | nuts | bolts | | :--------: | :--------: | :---------: |
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Report on the ascent made by a team from Krasnoyarsk to the peak Kyrkchilta via the Davy route of 6B category of complexity.

Russian Championship in Alpinism

high-altitude and technical category 2018 year

Report

on the ascent to peak Kyrkchilta, 4507 m, via the center of the SW wall, 6B category of difficulty, Dave route by the team from Krasnoyarsk For the period 23.07.2018–25.07.2018

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the team leaderProkofyev D.E. (MS)
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Report on the ascent made by the Krasnoyarsk Krai team to the top of Peak Odessa (4810 m) via the center of the northwest wall following the Voronov route, rated as category 6B.

Agency for Physical Culture and Sports of Krasnoyarsk Krai

KRAEVAYA FEDERATSIYA ALPINIZMA

Russian Championship in Alpinism 2008

Class of Technical Ascents

Report

On the ascent of the Krasnoyarsk Krai team to Peak Odessa 4810 m via the center of the northwest wall. Voronov's Route, 6B category of complexity Third ascent, variation Coaches: Zakharov N. N.

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Report on the first ascent of the route category 5B via the directissima of Belukha's northern wall by the team from the Altai Regional Sports Committee in 1996.

RUSSIAN ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIPS. ICE-SNOW CLASS

Report

on the first ascent to Belukha (3), 4400 m via the direttissima of the northern wall by the team from Altai Krai Sports Committee. Coaches:

  • Plotnikov I.A. — Master of Sports of International Class
  • Kuznetsov N.A. — Candidate Master of Sports 1996

Passport

  1. Ice-snow class
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Ascent to the summit of Jangi (4167 m) along the southern ridge, a classic route of category 3B complexity.

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Footnotes

  1. 4167 m

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Description of the passage of a category 6A route to Peak 20 let Oktyabrya (4180 m) in the Katun Range, Altai, made by a team from Krasnoyarsk in July 1993.

II. Passport

I. Rock class. 2. Altai, Katunsky ridge. 3. Peak 20 let Oktyabrya, 4188 m, via the right part of the E. wall. 4. Complexity category 6A, third ascent. 5. Elevation gain 1100 m, length of 6A–6B category sections — 300 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 60°/3100–4100 m. 6. Pitons hammered:

rocknutsice screws
4717426
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Ascent of Delaunay Peak (4260 m) via the NW wall, new route, category 6B, first ascent made in May 2003.

Climbing Passport

  1. Technical category.
  2. Altai, Katunsky ridge, Ak-Kem gorge.
  3. Delaunay Peak. Central part of the Northwest Wall. 4260 m.
  4. Route 6B cat. diff. (approximately). First ascent of the route.
  5. Height difference of the route: 1110 m (bergschrund 3150 - summit 4260). Route length about 1600 m.
  6. Length of the central part 1100 m (height difference about 800).
  7. Length of sections 5: 445 m.
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A description of the route to the top of Kara-Urok in Gorny Altai, including information on the difficulty and specifics of the ascent.

8. Kara — a lesson

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