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Route Description: СЗ гребню
Report on the ascent of the Demchenko CSKA team to the summit of Ciarforon (3640 m) via the NW ridge, category 3B, in the [Grai*skie Alps](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gran_paradiso), Italy.
Report
On the ascent of the CSKA team named after Demchenko to the summit of Ciarforon (Mont Ciarforon) 3640 m via the NW ridge, category 3B Graian Alps, Valle d'Aosta region, Gran Paradiso National Park, Italy Team leader: M.V. Bogdanov Senior coach: E.V. Kuznetsova
Climbing Report
- Graian Alps (Italy). Gran Paradiso area. № 10.3 (according to KGVB 2011).
- Mt. Ciarforon 3640 m via NW ridge (first ascent in 1894 by D. Escoffier, O. De Falkner).
- Proposed category: 3B
Route Description: СЗ гребню
Report on the ascent made by the "Polytechnic" mountaineering team to the summit of Aiguille Verte via the North Ridge, a Category 4B climb.
ASCENT REPORT FOR AIGUILLE VERTE VIA NORTH RIDGE, CATEGORY 4B, BY "POLITECHNIK" CLIMBING TEAM ON AUGUST 2-3, 2018
I. Ascent Passport
- General Information
1.1 Team Leader: Fayzullin Ruslan Rinatovich, 2nd sports category.
1.2 Team Members:
- Deripaskina Ekaterina Alexandrovna, 2nd sports category;
- Mainbaeva Anastasia Sergeevna, 2nd sports category;
- Plaksin Alexander Sergeevich, 2nd sports category. 1.3 Coach: Molodozhen V.A., Master of Sports. 1.4 Organization: "Polytechnic" Climbing Club.
Route Description: гребню Космик
Description of the ascent via the Cosmique ridge to the summit of Aiguille du Midi (3842 m) in the French Alps, grade VI, mixed terrain.
Ascent Passport
- France. Savoy Alps, Chamonix area. Section №10.3 (according to KGBM 2013)
- Summit Aiguille du Midi (3842 m). Cosmic Ridge (first ascent G. Finch, M. Finch, 1911)
- Presumably — VI cat. diff.
- Route type: combined
- Height difference: 300 m Route length: 820 m Section lengths:
- V cat. diff. — m
- VI cat. diff. — m
Route Description: Ю склону
Report on the ascent of the CSKA team named after Demchenko to the summit of Aiguille du Tour Nord via the southern slope, category 2A difficulty, in the Chamonix area, Savoie Alps.
Report
On the ascent of the CSKA team named after Demchenko to the summit of Aiguille du Tour North (3540 m) via the South slope, 2A category of difficulty, Savoy Alps, Chamonix area
Moscow 2014
Ascent Passport
- France. Savoy Alps, Chamonix area. Section №10.3 (according to KGBM 2013)
- Summit Aiguille du Tour North (Aiguille du Tour N) 3540 m. Via the South slope
- Proposed category of difficulty: 2A,
- Route characteristics: combined
- Height difference of the route: 700 m
Route Description: ЮЗ гребню
Report on the ascent of the Demchenko CSKA team to the summit of Aiguille du Tour Nord via the SW-ridge, category 3A, in the Chamonix region, Savoie Alps, France.
Report
On the ascent of the CSKA team named after Demchenko to the summit of Aiguille du Tour North (3540 m) via the SW ridge, category 3A, Savoy Alps, Chamonix area
Ascent Details
- France. Savoy Alps, Chamonix area. Section No. 10.3 (according to KGBM 2013)
- Summit Aiguille du Tour North (Aiguille du Tour N) 3540 m. Via SW ridge
- Proposed category: 3A
- Route type: combined
- Height difference: 700 m
Route Description: Классика с хижины Альберта
Report on the ascent made by CSKA team to the summit of Aigulle du Tour Sud via the classic Category 1B route from Albert's Hut in the Chamonix area.
Report
On the ascent of the CSKA team named after Demchenko to the summit of Aiguille du Tour South (3544 m) via the classic route from Albert Premier refuge, 1B cat. dif., Savoy Alps, Chamonix area Leader: A. V. Yurkin Senior coach: E. V. Kuznetsova Moscow 2014
Ascent Details
- France. Savoy Alps, Chamonix area. Section No. 10.3 (according to KGBM 2013).
- Summit Aiguille du Tour (Aiguille du Tour) 3544 m. "Classic" from Albert Premier refuge (C. G. Heathcote, M. Andermatten, 1864).
- Proposed category – 1B cat. dif.
Route Description: Классика с хижины Альберта
Report on the ascent made by the Polytechnik team to the south summit of Aiguille du Tour via the eastern wall, category 1B, in France, the Alps.
Report
On the ascent of Aiguille de Tour South via the East Wall, category 1B, by the "Polytechnic" mountaineering club on July 26, 2018. Glacier du Tour, Chamonix (France), Alps.
I. Ascent Report
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Roman Voskoboev, 1st sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | Danilchuk Valeria Dmitrievna, 3rd sports rank; Samsonova Valeria Mikhailovna, badge; Kalayda Viktor Vitalievich, badge; Charin Ruslan Viktorovich, badge; Varshavchik Lidiya Aleksandrovna, badge |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | - |
| 1.4 | Organization | Mountaineering club "Polytechnic" |
| 2. Characteristics of the ascent object |
Route Description: кулуару СЗ стены
Report on the ascent made by the Demchenko CSKA team to the summit of Aiguille du Chardonnet via the NW wall couloir, cat. 5A, in the Savoie Alps.
Report
On the ascent of the CSKA Demchenko team to the summit of Aiguille du Chardonnet (3824 m) via the NW wall couloir, 5A category of difficulty, Savoy Alps, Chamonix area
Team leader: A.V. Sviatitskiy Senior coach: E.V. Kuznetsova
Ascent Passport
- France, Savoy Alps, Chamonix area. Section № 10.3 (according to KGBM 2013).
- Aiguille du Chardonnet peak (3824 m) via the NW wall couloir (J. Aureille, Y. Feutren, 1942).
- Category of difficulty: 5A.
- Route type: combined.
Route Description: З склону, м-т Бутреса
Report on the ascent of the Russian team to Mount McKinley (6194 m) via the West Buttress in 1998.
Passport
- High-altitude technical class
- Alaska, Alaska Range
- Peak McKinley (Denali) 6194 m via West Counterforce
- Proposed category of complexity — 5B
- Elevation gain — 4000 m, length — 26 km, average steepness of main part — 20°
- Ice screws used — 15 pcs., anchors — 2 pcs.
- Team's travel days — 8 (ascent), 3 (descent)
- Overnights (total) — 15 on snow-ice platforms
- Team captain — Yanochkin V. I. (MSMK)
Route Description: С гребню
Report on the first ascent of Kashkar peak (6435 m) via the North Ridge (ascent) and East Ridge (descent), rated as 4B-5A category of difficulty.
11.3.5
Report
On the ascent (traverse) of Kashkar Peak (Koshkar, Kochkarbashi) 6435 m
via the northern ridge (ascent)–eastern ridge (descent) 4B–5A category of difficulty.
(First ascent)
China, Tian Shan, in the southern spur of Pobeda (Tomur) Peak, Kokshaal-Tau ridge, dividing the Temirsu (to the west) and Chonteren (to the east) glaciers. On the traverse, the following points (peaks, gendarmes) were passed:
- 5550 m
- 5620 m
- 5650 m