ASCENT FORM

1. Area of ascent
2. Class of ascent
3. Peak, its height
4. Ascent route
5. Estimated difficulty category
6. Route characteristics
7. Pitons were not used
8. Number of nights and their characteristics
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, their sports qualification

ASCENSION AREA — CHARODINSKY, EAST CAUCASUS, DASSR The summit METIKO 3814 m via the north face, category 2B Climbing team members:

• Leader: Timoshin Mikhail Egorovich Master of Sports of the USSR
• Pashuk Evgeny Grigorievich III category
• Kozarezov Evgeny Fedorovich —"—"—
• Leonov Petr Georgievich —"—"—
• Yakhyaev Ruslan Krimsultanov —"—"—

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area — Kamchatka, Bystrinsky ridge.
2. Peak — Vlk. Vackhazhec 1547 m, via North-Eastern ridge.
3. Ascent class — Combined.
4. Estimated category of difficulty 1B (Winter)
5. Height difference — 850 m.
6. Route length — 1320 m.
7. Number of days — 1 day.
8. Number of travel hours — 6 hours.
9. Leader, participants, surname and initials, sports rank.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

• Climbing category — rock
• Climbing area — Kamchatka, Poperechny ridge
• Peak, its height, ascent route — Mt. Vilyuchinsky, 2173 m
• Proposed difficulty category — 2B
• Route characteristics — elevation gain — 1700 m, average steepness — 40–45°
• Pitons driven:
  • for rock protection — 4
  • ice — 1

Volcano Kozelsky, 2170 m, 1B, complexity category, to the SW slope, V. Maksimov, 1965. From the base camp in the upper reaches of the Kozelsky stream, an ascent is made along the slope to the plateau; crossing the plateau, one moves in the direction of the SW slope (see photo). The ascent goes along a snow-firn slope along the right side of a not very pronounced broad ridge in the direction of the summit cone. The exit to the cone is along the path on the left side. The average slope of the SW slope is 30 degrees. The ascent takes 4–5 hours. The descent is made along the ascent route.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category - technical
2. Ascent area - group of volcanoes 30 km from Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky at 55° N
3. Peak, its height, route - Kozelsky peak (2070 m), first western edge
4. Proposed category difficulty - 3B
5. Route description: | # | Sections | Length | Average steepness | |:--|:-----------|:-------------|:------------------| | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | | --- | ---------- | ------------- | ---------------- |

Kamchatka Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT YUZhnaya (SOUTHERN), GANALSKIE VOSTRYAKI RANGE, KAMCHATKA PENINSULA VIA THE ROUTE:

"FROM THE SOUTH, ALONG THE WESTERN COUNTERFORT, THROUGH 'SLONIK'" CAT. 2B The ascent was made by the team of the Kamchatka Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing on June 24, 2016.

ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

Map of the Area

Description of the ascent to the summit of Kamen via the NORTHERN EDGE, 4A cat. diff.

The Kamen peak is part of the Klyuchevskaya group of volcanoes. It is the second highest peak in Kamchatka. Its absolute height above sea level is 4650 m. Kamen is a volcano of volcanic origin. It is the oldest volcano in the Klyuchevskaya group. Its slopes are composed of volcanic rocks: – basalt – diabase. The volcano has a very large glaciation from the foot to the summit. The glaciers flowing from it to the north and northwest flow into the Svetly glacier. From the western side, the icy slopes are largely cut by rocky ridges. To the east of the summit, there is a sheer rock wall (2700 m) down to the Shmidt glacier, see photo 2.

Vlk. Ovalnaya Zimina. 3081 m, 2A cat. diff., S. Grebnyu, V. Sergeev, 1965. The base camp is conveniently located under the southern slopes of Vlk. Bezymyannyy. There is a volcanologists' house here. From the camp site, the route is clearly visible (see photo). From the camp, crossing the valley, the ascent is along a wide hollow, the approach takes about an hour. Along the hollow - exit to the circus, approaching the steep ascent, the climb straight up, exit to a wide shoulder. Further ascent along the slope to the firn plateau (on the edge of the plateau - a large rocky bastion). From the plateau - ascent along the snowy slope, along a vaguely expressed lava ridge, breaking off to the east with cornices and an icefall. Along the ridge - approach to the pre-summit rocky bashnya, under it traverse - exit to the dome. The entire route is traversed simultaneously in crampons. The dome has two peaks, the southern peak is higher, between the peaks - a small depression. The ascent time takes 8-9 hours. Descent from the summit along the ascent path to the shoulder, then it is more convenient to descend along the ridge through the lateral red dome, consisting of small slag. □

Fig. 57

2. Traverse of Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha (3640 m) with ascent via the north-eastern edge to Perednyaya Chotcha — category 4B difficulty (see Fig. 57)

From the Northern refuge, cross the Hokel river via a log, then follow the trail and scree to the crest of the north-eastern edge of Perednyaya Chotcha. The crest is jagged, with numerous sharp gendarmes that are overcome head-on; the descent from the last two gendarmes to the col is via rappelling (protection on the crest via protrusions and pitons!). The col offers a bivouac site. The journey from the Northern refuge to the col takes 6–7 hours. From the col, ascend 90–100 m up a steep snowfield (65°) to smooth rocks (protection on the snowfield via ice axe, on rock outcrops via pitons!). From the snowfield, traverse left along ledges for 65–70 m to a steep gully, then ascend 60 m up the right side of the gully via moderately difficult rocks (protection!). The gully is prone to rockfall! Continue ascending 110–120 m up steep slab-like rocks (protection via pitons!) to a sloping snow ledge, then traverse 100 m left and upwards to the start of the second pitch of the edge (protection!). From the start of the second pitch, ascend 50 m right and upwards via an inclined crevice, then 40 m via a moderately pronounced chimney to a steep wall (75–80°). Ascend 130 m up the difficult rocks of the steep wall to a horizontal ledge (protection via pitons!). This is a suitable bivouac site. The journey from the col takes 4–5 hours.