Activity Feed
Route Description: В ребру
Ascent to Peak Burevestnik (4360 m) via the Eastern Ridge in the Terskey Ala-Too range, category 4A, 12 walking hours.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
I. Ascent class — technical II. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge III. Peak — "Burevestnik" peak, 4360 m, ascent route — via the Eastern ridge IV. Estimated complexity category 4A V. Route characteristics: height difference 764 m, length of sections with 4-5 cat. diff. 295 m, average steepness 51° VI. Pitons driven: for rock protection — 31, ice — 0, bolted — 0 VII. Number of climbing hours — 12
Technical description of the ascent to Peak Yunost (4300 m) via the southern ridge in the Teskey Ala-Too range, category B difficulty level.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — technical
- Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Teskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge
- Peak — Pik Yunost, 4300 m, ascent route via the South ridge
- Estimated difficulty category — 2B
- Route characteristics: elevation gain — 454 m, length of sections with 3–4 difficulty category — 850 m, average steepness 55°
- Pitons driven: for rock protection — 22, ice — 0, bolted — 0
- Number of climbing hours — II
Route Description: левому кф. В гребня
Climbing passport for Albatros Zapadny peak (4740 m) via the northern wall buttress, 4B difficulty category, combined route.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — technical
- Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge
- Peak — Albatros Western, 4740 m, via the counterfort of the northern wall, from Brigantina glacier
- Proposed category of difficulty — 4B, combined
- Route characteristics:
Height difference — 581 m, length — 840 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 68° (from 4212 m to 4706 m).
Length of sections:
- Grade III — 420 m
- Grade IV — 182 m
Description of the 2B category difficulty rock climbing route to Apu-Tor peak (4020 m) in the Terskey Alatau ridge, Tian Shan, with a detailed description of the path and technical details.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent class — rock climbing 2. Ascent area, range — Tian Shan, Terskey Alatau 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Ashutor, 4020 m, from Ashutor Pass 4. Proposed difficulty category — 2B combined 5. Route characteristics:
- elevation gain — 350 m
- length of sections, difficulty category: 1 — 200 m 2 — 200 m
Route Description: с востока
Route description to the summit "Litovskih Alpinistov" (4080 m) via the Eastern wall, category 4 complexity, located in the Tian-Shan mountain range.
Route Description
To the summit of "Lithuanian Climbers" from the east via the wall - Category 4A difficulty:
- A. Petrauskas (leader)
- A. Buiko
- R. Valepetaite
- R. Vosylute
- V. Valatka
- M. Navelukas
Brief Description of the Summit
Climbing passport for Slonionok peak (4718 m) in Teskey Ala-Too range, category 4B difficulty level, technically challenging ascent with traverse.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent category — technical
- Ascent area: Tian Shan range, Teskey Ala-Too.
- Slonenok peak, 4718 m, traverse from East to West, 45 km traverse.
- Estimated category of difficulty: 4B (3 with passage).
- Route characteristics: length of sections with 4–5 category of difficulty — 680 m, average steepness of the route — 60°.
- Pitons hammered for belay — 61, of which:
- rock pitons — 28,
- protection gear — 7,
- ice screws — 26.
Route Description: с пер. Ашутор
Description of the route of 3B category of difficulty to the peak S. Irsenin (4240 m) in the Terskey Alatoo ridge with the main technical characteristics and the composition of the group.
- Climbing area — Yan Man; Terskey Ala Too ridge
- Summit — p. S. Irsenina, 4240 m, Ashutor 114 pass
- Proposed category of difficulty — 3Б'32 н/н 1/хi-83.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 550 m.
length of sections of I category of difficulty — 440 m.
| | II | -380 |
| :-: | :-: | :---: |
| | III | - 215 |
| | IY | — II8 |
Route Description: С стене
Climbing passport for the peak "Aziya" (3600 m) in the Ugam range via a combined route of 3rd category of difficulty with a description of the path and technical details.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent class combined 2. Ascent area — Western Tian-Shan Ugam ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route "Aziya" 3600 m via the S buttress counterfort 4. Estimated difficulty category 3B 5. Route characteristics: height difference 300 m average steepness 65° length of sections 3 — 125 m, 4 — 145 m, 5 — 75 m. 6. Pitons driven:
Route Description: с севера по В гребню
Description of the first ascent of a Category III rock climbing route along the western ridge of BARS-I peak (Tian Shan, Ugam Range) and a new route to the eastern summit of ALTUS.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
ASCENT DOCUMENT
Class: Rock Climbing
Region: TIAN-SHAN, Ugam Range (7.II) Peak: ALTUS Height according to "KMGV-99": 3200 m BARS-I 3800 m First Ascent Routes and proposed difficulty categories: Via Sofia's Shelf to the eastern ridge: 3A combined Via Sofia's Shelf to the western ridge: 3B combined
Route Description: ЮВ гребню с пер. Ак
Description of the 1B alpinist route to the Ak-Tur Uzunkol summit via the Ak pass with detailed timing and characteristics of the route.
Aktur Uzunkol — description of the 1B alpinist route from SK Greta
Route description: The trail to Ak pass begins from the first tributary flowing into the Myrdy river below the first bridge from the top on the right bank, and leads left along the trail upwards along steep grassy slopes in the direction of the Pyramida peak.
After 1.5 hours, the slope becomes gentler, and the trail goes along small rocky-grassy terraces. 40 minutes later, on one of the terraces to the left of the trail, on a wonderful lawn thickly overgrown with grass, next to a crossing stream, there are good places for tents, no firewood. A couple of rocky-grassy ascents lead to the glacier flowing from under the Pyramida and Ak-bashi peaks.
We ascend to the glacier to the right along the trail via small and medium talus and snowfields and enter a small glacial cirque north of the Ak-bashi peak, ending with a ridge of heavily destroyed rocks. A small depression in the ridge is the Ak pass.
Orienting our movement towards the saddle of the pass, we cross the glacier and ascend to the pass via snow and then destroyed rocks.
From the pass, we ascend to the peak via a snowy (at the end of summer — talus) slope. Descent is via the ascent route.
Path chronometry:
- ascent to the tongue of the glacier — 3 hours;
- along the glacier to the pass — 1 hour;