The edge formation rests against a 40° snow-ice slope. After 8–10 m there is a large rock, where it is convenient to organize an insurance and hang a rope. Up to this point, starting from the triangular wall, it goes without a backpack. After a large rock, the ascent takes 10–15 minutes and follows a snow-ice slope with rocky inclusions to a gentle part of the edge. From here, along the ascending edge, which breaks off steeply to the north for about 200 m, it leads to a snowy shoulder under the summit. From it, along the snow-ice slope from the western side, there is an ascent to the summit of the peak. From under the triangular wall - 5 hours. The descent from the summit to the pass follows the ascent route, with the organization of 5 forty-meter "rappels" and takes 7 hours.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical (4251–5250)
2. Ascent area: Turkestan Range, Aksu valley
3. Peak: p. 4660 (Badygin) via North slope
4. Category of complexity: 4A
5. Route character: snow-ice

• Height difference — 760 m
• Average steepness — 51°
• Section length:
  • R4 — 310 m

1.2.25

Climbing Passport No. 2

1. Altai, Aktru gorge, section 1.
2. Karatash peak, via the North-West couloir of the North face.
3. Proposed category 3A, first ascent.
4. The route is ice and snow.
5. Height difference 1000 m, Length 1500 m, Average slope 45°.
6. Pitons hammered in: ice — 6.

Passport

1. Gorny Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge (a/l "Aktru").
2. p. Radiostov Vostochnaya (3750 m) via the ice gully on the northern slope and the western ridge.
3. Proposed 3B category difficulty (first ascent). Route length 1230 m. Height difference 650 m. Average slope: — main part of the route — 46°; — entire route — 33°.
4. Hooks left — 0 pcs.
5. Climbing hours to the summit — 6 h 10 min.
6. Leader: Gaponov Alexander Vladimirovich (1st sports category, "Irbis" club, Kemerovo).

As­cent cer­ti­fi­cate №1 Re­gion — Re­pub­lic of Al­tai, Se­ver­no-Chuйsky ridge Moun­tain — Snezhnaya 3800 m via the cen­ter of the north­west slope Sup­posed — CA cat. dif., first as­cent. Char­ac­ter­is­tics of the route — ice and snow. 5. Char­ac­ter­is­tics of the route: dif­fe­rence in height of the main part 540 m, length of the route — 870 m. Length of sec­tions 4 cat. dif. — 340 m, 3 cat. dif. — 360 m, 2 cat. dif. — 170 m. Av­er­age steep­ness of the main part — 45° 6. Used on the route: ice screws — 80 7. Num­ber of mov­ing hours — 7, days — 1. 8. Leader: Iv­liev An­drey Vla­di­mi­ro­vich 1st sports rank

ALPINISM FEDERATION OF NOVOSIBIRSK REGION

Report

On the ascent of the team from Novosibirsk

to the summit Snezhnaia 3800 m via the center of the northwestern slope. Presumably 4A cat. diff. First ascent. Leader: Ivliev Andrei Vladimirovich Participants:

• Kulishova Alena Maratovna
• Pintsov Anton Nikolaevich
• Khudiakov Roman Konstantinovich

Passport

1. Class — first ascent.
2. Altai. Severo-Chuysky ridge, Maashey gorge, left glacial couloir of the northern slope.
3. Proposed name — Pik Sporny (3362 m).
4. Presumably — 3A category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain — 700 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 40°.
6. Ice screws were used on the route.
7. Team's walking hours — 9.
8. Nights stayed — none.
9. Team members:

1. Gorny Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge.
2. v. UPI, center of the NW slope.
3. route 2B cat. sl., first ascent is proposed.
4. Nature of the route: ice.
5. Height difference of the route — 500 m. Route length — 1000 m. Length of sections:

• 2 cat. sl. — 550 m.
• 3 cat. sl. — 450 m. Average steepness:

Passport

1. Class. First ascent.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Karakabak gorge.
3. Peak "Russia XX века" – peak "Instruktorov" traverse.
4. Proposed 3A category of difficulty.
5. Elevation difference 860 m, length 2210 m.
6. Pitons: 18 ice screws.
7. Climbing hours: 11 h from glacier to glacier.
8. Overnight stays: not necessary.
9. Leader: Drakin A.V. CMS.

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Altai Sofiyskiy Glacier Section number according to the 2002 classification table – 1.3
2. Peak name: p. Bochvar, 3725 m Route name: from Sofiyskiy Glacier, from the north along the NW ridge
3. Proposed – category 2B difficulty, first ascent
4. Route character: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 550 m from the glacier (by altimeter) Average slope: upper part of the route 35°