Ascent Passport
- Region: Altai Sofiyskiy Glacier Section number according to the 2002 classification table – 1.3
- Peak name: p. Bochvar, 3725 m Route name: from Sofiyskiy Glacier, from the north along the NW ridge
- Proposed – category 2B difficulty, first ascent
- Route character: combined
- Route elevation gain: 550 m from the glacier (by altimeter) Average slope: upper part of the route 35° Entire route – 25°
- Hooks used – 4 ice screws
- Team's travel hours: From the glacier to the summit – 5 hours
- Leader: Vadim Nеvorotin, MS Alexander Urbanskiy, CMS Vladimir Shataev, MS
- Departure on the route: from BL – 5:40, August 6, 2002 Summit ascent: 13:15, August 6, 2002 Return to BL: 18:30, August 6, 2002
Departure from the lake at the end of Sofiyskiy Glacier, where the base camp was located (altitude 2350 m). Ascent along the glacier to its left branch. Movement along the glacier in crampons, initially up the slope – 30° (100 m), then the glacier flattens out – approach to the start of the route under the intended peak. Altitude by altimeter 3150 m. Along the scree couloir up to the left to the saddle in the NW ridge – initially along a snow-ice slope, and then along large rocks and scree. Saddle height 3500 m. The first two small "gendarms" are traversed head-on. The third gendarme is bypassed on the left along the rocks with alternate belay through outcrops and exit to the saddle behind it. Here, a cairn was found with a note from tourists who went from l. Udachny to l. Sofiyskiy in 1999. The 4th gendarme is bypassed on the left along the rocks with alternate belay (but it is better to go straight along the rocky ridge, as we descended back) with exit to a snowy saddle. From it straight up along firn and ice 150 m (slope from 20 to 40°), where 4 ice screws were used for belay. No signs of presence were found on the summit, a cairn was built, a note was left about the first ascent, and a memorial medal for academician Andrey Bochvar was left.
No. 5026аpra — 3725 m.
Russian Federation, Altai Republic
Russian Federation, Altai Republic
