Championship of the Kazakh SSR

High-altitude class

II. Peak Khan-Tengri (6995 m) via the north-eastern ridge of the shoulder of Peak Chapayev from the North Inylchek Glacier (first ascent)

Team 12 SCA SAVO Coach: Yuriy Mikhaylovich Moiseev Team captain: Valeriy Nikolayevich Khrshchatyy

1. 12 Sports Club of the Army, Almaty
2. Almaty, Kurmangazy St., 15, apt. 8, Khrshchatyy V. N., ph. 61-27-25 Participants: V. Khrshchatyy, Z. Aubekerov, G. Mikhaylov, A. Vasil'yev, Ye. Sedel'nikov (SCA-12) August 17-20, 1988

Kazakhstan Republican Council of the Spartak Voluntary Sports Society

Report

on the ascent of Khan-Tengri Peak (6995 m) from the north by a team of climbers in August 1968 B. Studenin, 68

Almaty

1968

Introduction

Ascent Record

1. Region — Central Tien-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, September 7, 1918
2. Peak — Khan-Tengri 6995 m, via SW facet of SW edge (V. Sviridenko)
3. Complexity category — 6B
4. Route type — combined
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 2395 m, elevation gain of the wall section — 1450 m, route length — 3455 m, length of sections with 6th category difficulty — 170 m, 5th category — 700 m,

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude and technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Tian Shan, Tengri Tagh ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak Chapayev, 6371.0 m, via the Southeast ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 2200 m. Section lengths: 5th difficulty category — 810 m. 6th difficulty category — 65 m. Average steepness of the rocky part of the route — 60°, snowy-icy part — 42°.

REPORT ON THE PARTICIPATION OF THE CS DSO “LOKOMOTIV” TEAM IN THE USSR CHAMPIONSHIP IN ALPINISM IN THE 1974 SEASON The composition of the team that actually participated in the championship:

• Manshin Yu.P. — team captain,
• Volkov R.P. — deputy captain,
• Repin V.D.,
• Vodolazhsky V.K.,
• Svitov V.M. The team was supported by a rescue team and a communications group consisting of:
• Marfin V.M.,
• Shmuylovich S.G.,

First ascender: Zhukov V. — rest of the information is lost. Further data on Shekhovtsov S.'s group.

Ascent Passport

1. Western Tian-Shan, Chatkal Ridge. #7 / 7.12 according to the 2001 classifier
2. Mt. Bolshoy Chimgan. 3309 m via N ridge / W spur.
3. Proposed category: 2A category of difficulty
4. Route type: Combined (ridge)
5. Route elevation gain: 1499 m (by GPS) Route length: 3680 m (by GPS) Section lengths:
   • II category of difficulty – 2267 m (by GPS)

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Climbing type: rock
2. Ascent area, ridge: S-3 Tian-Shan, Talassky ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: DJOLOY ZAPADNY (WESTERN) via the northern glacier slope
4. Estimated difficulty category: 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference 630 m length of sections 5–6 difficulty category average steepness 50°
6. Pitons hammered: for insurance rock — ice — 42 bolted — for creating and organizing emergency stops rock — ice — bolted —
7. Number of travel hours: 6

August 15.

Route Description

3718 m. From the base camp located on the moraine under the northern walls of Mt. Piazak, the approach to the saddle of the North Ridge is via a snowy couloir (scree in summer) along the rocky outcrops on the left (1 hour). From the saddle: — right along the ridge (60 m, 45°, snow) under a rocky outcrop; — then along the couloir (40 m, 50°, snow, местами натёчный лёд) towards the rocky wall in the ridge (piton belay). The wall is traversed on the left and via broken rocks — exit to a steep snowy section of the ridge. Moving on the right side of the ridge, exit onto broken rocks. Along the snowy ridge 250 m to the summit (snow cornices on both sides, movement in rope teams). The summit is broken rocks. In fact, the summit of Piazak is double-headed. The Eastern and Western summits are at least 500 m apart and are of equal height. The ridge between them is snowy and presents no technical difficulty. The control cairn is set on the Eastern summit. The descent from the summit to the base camp took 2 hours via the ascent route. A easier descent is possible via the Western summit along its Western slope into another cirque, but in this case, having lost altitude, one will have to climb back to the base camp, bypassing Piazak from the West.

ASCENT PASSPORT. I. Rock class. 2. Altai, Mensu gorge. 3. Belukha Eastern, via the pillows of the south-eastern slope. 4. Proposed — Category III, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 700 m, length: 1200 m, average steepness: 40 °. 6. Movement hours — 8 hours. 7. Overnight stays: 2 on approach, on the route — none. 8. Leader — Kuznetsova Tatiana Yurievna — II sports category. Participants:

Passport

1. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge, Karakbak gorge, 1:2 scale
2. The summit of Geroev Altaya via the center of the North-West slope, height 3511 m (GPS measurement).
3. Proposed category — 4A, first ascent.
4. Route type — ice
5. Elevation gain: 480 m; length — 1100 m. Average steepness of the route — 35–45 degrees. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 80 m.
6. Number of pitons used on the route: ice screws — 24.
7. Team's travel time: 6 h 30 min from the glacier to the summit;