Activity Feed
Route Description: ЮВ гребню
Ascent to Peak 3914 m via the south-eastern ridge from Butnub Pass, category 1B, first ascent, Dagestan, Nukatl Ridge.
PASSPORT I. Rock class. 2. Caucasus, Dagestan mountains, Nukatl ridge. 3. Peak 3914 m (G. Gamidova) via the south-eastern ridge from Butnub pass 4. Proposed category 1B, first ascent 5. Elevation gain 2200 m, length 2200 m, average slope 30°, sections of category 1 difficulty — 200 m, sections of category 2 difficulty — 200 m 6. Pitons and nuts were not used, protection through rock features. 7. Climbing hours — 6 8. Overnight stays: only under the route 9. Leader: Leonov Pyotr Georgievich
Route Description: Ю гребню
Description of the ascent route to the peak Dartsа (3906 m) along the southern ridge, category 1B difficulty, including characteristics of the approach, path sections, and recommendations for passage.
I. Climbing area 2. Climbing category 3. Peak, its elevation 4. Ascent route 5. Estimated difficulty category 6. Route description 7. Number of pitons used 8. Number of bivouacs and their description 9. Number of travel hours 10. Surname, I.O. of team leader and participants, their sports qualification
Route Description: В гребню
Climbing passport for the ascent to the summit of Diklos-mta (4285 m) via the Eastern Ridge, category 2A difficulty, with a description of the route and its passage in 1978.
Ascent Passport
- Climbing type: rock climbing
- Climbing area: No. 2.9 (Eastern Caucasus)
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: Diklos-mta 4285 m, via the eastern ridge
- Proposed difficulty category: approximately 2A category
- Route characteristics: elevation gain 600 m average slope 30° duration of sections R1–300 m, R2–850 m, R3–150 m for belaying, for creating, etc.
Route Description: траверс
Traversing the Diklosmta massif from east to west, category III difficulty, length 3200 m, height difference 1740 m, 81 rock pitons.
Climbing Passport
I. Route Type: COMBINED 2. Eastern Caucasus (Dagestan mountains) 3. Traverse of the DIKLOSMTA massif (4275 m, 4285 m, 4240 m, 4101 m) from East to South 4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B 5. Route characteristics:
- total distance — 3200 m
- total elevation gain — 1740 m
- average steepness — traverse
- section lengths: R1 — 1770 m
Route Description: траверс
Traverse of the Diklo Mt. peaks (South — West — Central — East) Cat. III, first ascent.
Ascent Log
- Category of first ascent.
- Region 2.10. Dagestan Mountains, Snegovoy Ridge.
- Diklosmta, traverse of peaks: South (4101 m) – West (4240 m) – Central (4285 m) – East (4275 m), combined route.
- Proposed category of complexity: 3B, first ascent.
- Length: sections of 1st category – 780 m, 2nd category – 1200 m, 3rd category – 500 m, 4th category – 200 m, total route length – 2700 m.
- Pitons used: rock – 2 pcs., ice screws – 3 pcs. Pitons left on the route: rock – 2 pcs. (on the descent from the South peak).
- Climbing hours – 8.
- No overnight stays on the route. Overnight stay at Base Camp on "Intikay" sites (200 m) and overnight stay on the descent from the East peak, on the snow-ice pad of the "East shoulder" (4150 m).
Route Description: СВ гребню
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Doltag (4127 m) via the North-Eastern ridge, difficulty category 2B, in the Eastern Caucasus.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — rock climb
- Ascent area according to KTMGV (Mountaineering and Trekking Classification of Mountain Routes) Eastern Caucasus
- Peak, its height, and ascent route Dyultydag 4127 m via the northeast ridge
- Proposed category of difficulty 2B cat. diff. ≈ 15 / 1–80
- Route characteristics: elevation gain 280 m, average steepness 45°, length of sections I — 150 m; II — 8 m; III — 180 m; IV — 50 m; V — 150 m; VI — 5 m; VII — 20 m.
Route Description: СВ кф.
Ascent of Dultyadag (4127 m) via the North-Eastern buttress, a combined route of 2A category of difficulty, first ascent in 1994.
I. Winter climb. 2. Area 2.10. Dagestan mountains. 3. Dyultydag, 4127 m, via the North-Eastern counterfort, combined route. 4. Category 2A complexity, first ascent. 5. Elevation gain 500 m, section lengths: 1st cat. — 700 m, 2nd cat. — 630 m, 3rd cat. — 170 m, total route — 1500 m, average steepness of the counterfort — 35°. 6. Rock pitons used — 1 pc., rock outcrops — 2 pcs. 7. Climbing hours — 3. 8. No overnight stays on the route. Overnight stay in the approach camp in the North-Eastern cirque at 3500 m. 9. Participants:
Route Description: В гребню
Ascent record of Eknav peak (3770 m) in the East Caucasus via Normal route, category 1B.
Ascent Record
I. Ascent Area 2. Ascent Class 3. Peak, its Height 4. Ascent Route 5. Expected Difficulty Category 6. Route Characteristics 7. Pitons
Route Description: В гребню, траверс
Traversing Severная Dartsа and Dartsа Glavnaya peaks in the Bishinei ridge, Eastern Caucasus, category IIb complexity.
2.10.38
ASCENT AREA — CHARODINSKY, EAST CAUCASUS, DASSR
Traverse of peaks Severnaia (3780 m) — Glavnaia Dartsa (3906 m).
Complexity category: 2B (approximately), 2A.
Climbing group members:
- Leader: Timoshin Mikhail Egorovich (Master of Sports of the USSR)
- Basriev Zakir Aligadzhievich (Candidate for Master of Sports)
- Pashuk Evgeny Grigoryevich (II rank)
- Kozarezov Evgeny Fedorovich
Route Description: ЮВ кулуару и ЮВ гребню
Report on the first ascent of Jarlam mountain (2930 m) via the South-Eastern ridge, category 2A, in the Caucasus.
ASCENT REPORT
Djarlam
Via South-Eastern Ridge (“Ta-Ton'ka”) Estimated complexity: 2A 2022
Ascent Details
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Patutinskiy Alexander Nikolaevich, 1st sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full names, sports ranks of the participants | Torchikov Sergey Ilich, Candidate Master of Sports; Strelychuk Antonina Robertovna, Candidate Master of Sports; Plokhov Mikhail Sergeevich, Candidate Master of Sports; Yurchik Stanislav Tarasovich, 2nd sports rank |