4344

IRKUTSK REGIONAL FEDERATION OF ALPINISM

Description

Ascent to peak "Perya" via the N ridge (Tunkinskie Goltsy) Eastern Sayan Mountains 2996 m. Irkutsk, 1971.

Geographical information, sports characteristics, and history of exploration of the "Moygoto" valley

The Moygoto valley is located in the central part of the Tunkinskie Goltsy mountain range, Eastern Sayan Mountains. Tunkinskie Goltsy is the highest mountain range in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, with the highest point at 3266 m, located in the upper reaches of the Gang-Khairym valley. The range has alpine relief forms and many peaks of interest to mountaineers. The valleys are deep and covered with dense taiga. The tree line lies at an altitude of 1700 m. The snow cover largely disappears by the end of summer. There is no glaciation. The peak "Perya" is situated in a lateral spur, separated from the main ridge by a deep saddle. The peak's height is 2996 m. The nearest settlement is the Arshan resort, located 30 km away; Irkutsk is 250 km away. From the valley to the base camp, it is an 8 km ascent through a very difficult-to-access valley (the use of pack transport is not feasible), taking 5-6 hours.

Ascent record for Mt. Plastun (2374 m) via the Southeast wall, rated 3B category.

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Serebryanoe valley (Vetryany region), section 6.1.2.
2. Mt. Plastun (2374 m) via the Southeast wall.
3. Rated 3B category, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock climbing.
5. Elevation gain 350 m, length 570 m, average slope 50°.
6. Number of pitons: rock and wired 29 pcs.
7. Team's travel time — 7 hours.
8. No overnight stays on the route.
9. Team: Afanasyev A.E. MS

Arkhangelsk Region Climbing and Rock Climbing Federation

REPORT

On the first ascent to the summit of Aikuayvenchorr Central (1075 m) via the "3D" route, category 4A, by the Arkhangelsk Region team on March 23, 2018. Leader: Dmitry Alexandrovich Shpilevoy Participants:

• Dmitry Andreevich Rybalchenko
• Dmitry Olegovich Dolzhenkov Coach: Sergey Konstantinovich Penzov Responsible for the report: D. A. Rybalchenko rybalchenko92@yandex.ru Severodvinsk 2018

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT SVERDLOVSK VIA THE WESTERN BUTTRESS OF THE SOUTH RIDGE, CATEGORY 2B DIFFICULTY, BY THE TEAM OF THE "GORY BAIKALA" CLUB FROM 26.04.2018 TO 26.04.2018

I. Climbing Passport

№	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Panova Alena Mikhailovna (1st sports rank)
1.2	Full name, sports rank of the participants	Dmitriev Dmitry Vladimirovich, Pyankovskaya Svetlana Petrovna, Shelikov Alexey Ivanovich, Khabdaev Alexey Kirillovich
1.3	Full name of the coach	Glazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich
1.4	Organization	Irkutsk Regional Public Organization "Club of Active Recreation and Alpinism 'Gory Baikal'"
	2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT SVERDLOVSK VIA THE "1000 LETIYA GORODA BRESTA" ROUTE ALONG THE CENTRAL WESTERN COUNTERFORT, CATEGORY 3B, BY THE TEAM: BREST REGIONAL PUBLIC ASSOCIATION OF ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING "VERSHINA" FOR THE PERIOD FROM JUNE 26, 2019 TO JUNE 26, 2019

I. Climbing Report

№	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the team leader	Dedushko Nikita Gennadyevich, 1st sports rank
1.2	Full name, sports rank of the participants	Panova Alyona Mikhailovna, Candidate Master of Sports, Marchuk Nikita Ivanovich, 3rd sports rank, Andreev Grigory Alekseyevich, 3rd sports rank
1.3	Full name of the coach	Dedushko Nikita Gennadyevich

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Covering letter. Hello, respected members of the classification commission! The leader of this ascent, B.A. Khandazhapov, is addressing you. As part of the FASIO training camp held in the Sayan Mountains from November 1 to 9, 2014, we completed this ascent. After a meeting of the coaching council consisting of:

• S.A. Kirillov — senior coach,
• S.V. Kosoturov — training officer,
• B.A. Khandazhapov — instructor, 3rd category, it was decided to petition the FAR classification commission to raise the category of difficulty of this route to 3A. Under my leadership, the participants compiled a report. I ask you to familiarize yourselves with it and make a decision. Sincerely, B.A. Khandazhapov.

Report on the First Ascent

Peak Sever (2830 m?) North-West ridge, route 3A cat. diff. (proposed), first ascent. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1 Team Leader: Klepikov A.A. Team Members:

• Ometov A.A.
• Putko K.V. 2013

Climbing Report

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1.
2. Peak Sever (2830 m?), NW ridge.

R46, 2830 m, 19:20, July 30, 2012

Report on the First Ascent

R34 Peak Sever (2830 m) via the North face of the Northwest shoulder. Route category 4B (proposed), first ascent. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1. Team leader: Klepitov A. A. Participants:

• Ilyinsky V. A.
• Scherbany A. N. R20–R10 R5–R1, 10:00

Irkutsk Regional Public Organization "Club of Active Leisure and Alpinism Gory Baikala"

Report on the First Ascent

To v. Sibir' 2870 m via the Eastern ridge. Approximately 2A category of difficulty.

Climbing Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie goltsy, Baruun-Khandagai river gorge. Section number according to the classification table 6.1.2.
2. Sibir' 2870 m (summit coordinates: 51°54′48.53″N, 102°10′13.40″E) via the Eastern ridge.
3. Category of difficulty: proposed 2A first ascent.
4. Nature of the route — rocky.
5. Route elevation gain: 324 m. Route length: 460 m.

Irkutsk Regional Public Organization "Club of Active Recreation and Alpinism" Gory Baikala

Report on the First Ascent

Baruun Vostochny, 2674 m, via the Central Bastion

Irkutsk 2017

Passport

1. Category: rock climbing
2. Region: Eastern Sayan, Baruun-Khandagai gorge
3. Peak: Baruun Vostochny, 2674 m, via the central bastion
4. Proposed category: 4B
5. Height difference: 500 m, route length: 610 m