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Route Description: ЮВ стене
Description of a new Category IIIB route to Plastun peak (2374 m) via the South-Eastern wall in the Tunkin Goltsy mountain range, with detailed breakdown of sections and photographs.
Ascent record for Mt. Plastun (2374 m) via the Southeast wall, rated 3B category.
- Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Serebryanoe valley (Vetryany region), section 6.1.2.
- Mt. Plastun (2374 m) via the Southeast wall.
- Rated 3B category, first ascent.
- Route type — rock climbing.
- Elevation gain 350 m, length 570 m, average slope 50°.
- Number of pitons: rock and wired 29 pcs.
- Team's travel time — 7 hours.
- No overnight stays on the route.
- Team: Afanasyev A.E. MS
Route Description: З ребру
Report on the first ascent of the "3D" route, category 4A, on the summit of Aikuaivenchorr in the Khibiny Mountains in 2018.
Arkhangelsk Region Climbing and Rock Climbing Federation
REPORT
On the first ascent to the summit of Aikuayvenchorr Central (1075 m) via the "3D" route, category 4A, by the Arkhangelsk Region team on March 23, 2018. Leader: Dmitry Alexandrovich Shpilevoy Participants:
- Dmitry Andreevich Rybalchenko
- Dmitry Olegovich Dolzhenkov Coach: Sergey Konstantinovich Penzov Responsible for the report: D. A. Rybalchenko rybalchenko92@yandex.ru Severodvinsk 2018
Route Description: З кф. Ю гребня
Report on the first ascent to the top of Sverdlovsk via the 2B category route along the western counterfort of the southern ridge.
Report
ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT SVERDLOVSK VIA THE WESTERN BUTTRESS OF THE SOUTH RIDGE, CATEGORY 2B DIFFICULTY, BY THE TEAM OF THE "GORY BAIKALA" CLUB FROM 26.04.2018 TO 26.04.2018
I. Climbing Passport
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Panova Alena Mikhailovna (1st sports rank) |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | Dmitriev Dmitry Vladimirovich, Pyankovskaya Svetlana Petrovna, Shelikov Alexey Ivanovich, Khabdaev Alexey Kirillovich |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Glazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich |
| 1.4 | Organization | Irkutsk Regional Public Organization "Club of Active Recreation and Alpinism 'Gory Baikal'" |
| 2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object |
Route Description: центр. З кф.
Report on the first ascent of the "1000 лет города Бреста" route, category 3B, to the Sverdlovsk peak in the Eastern Sayan Mountains.
REPORT
ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT SVERDLOVSK VIA THE "1000 LETIYA GORODA BRESTA" ROUTE ALONG THE CENTRAL WESTERN COUNTERFORT, CATEGORY 3B, BY THE TEAM: BREST REGIONAL PUBLIC ASSOCIATION OF ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING "VERSHINA" FOR THE PERIOD FROM JUNE 26, 2019 TO JUNE 26, 2019
I. Climbing Report
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Dedushko Nikita Gennadyevich, 1st sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | Panova Alyona Mikhailovna, Candidate Master of Sports, Marchuk Nikita Ivanovich, 3rd sports rank, Andreev Grigory Alekseyevich, 3rd sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Dedushko Nikita Gennadyevich |
Route Description: В гребню
Description of the 3A category route to the Sever peak (2855 m) in the Eastern Sayan Mountains via the eastern ridge.
Йцукенгшщзхъфывапролджэяч
Смитьбюйцукенгшщзхъфывап
Ывапролджэячсмитьбюйцукен
Covering letter. Hello, respected members of the classification commission! The leader of this ascent, B.A. Khandazhapov, is addressing you. As part of the FASIO training camp held in the Sayan Mountains from November 1 to 9, 2014, we completed this ascent. After a meeting of the coaching council consisting of:
- S.A. Kirillov — senior coach,
- S.V. Kosoturov — training officer,
- B.A. Khandazhapov — instructor, 3rd category, it was decided to petition the FAR classification commission to raise the category of difficulty of this route to 3A. Under my leadership, the participants compiled a report. I ask you to familiarize yourselves with it and make a decision. Sincerely, B.A. Khandazhapov.
Route Description: СЗ гребню
Report on the first ascent of the route of 3A category of difficulty along the North-West ridge of the Sever peak (2830 m) in the Tunkin Goltsy ridge, Eastern Sayan.
Report on the First Ascent
Peak Sever (2830 m?) North-West ridge, route 3A cat. diff. (proposed), first ascent. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1 Team Leader: Klepikov A.A. Team Members:
- Ometov A.A.
- Putko K.V. 2013
Climbing Report
- Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1.
- Peak Sever (2830 m?), NW ridge.
Route Description: С стене СЗ плеча
Report on the first ascent of a Category 4B route via the North face of the northwestern shoulder of the Sever peak (2830 m) in the Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Eastern Sayan.
R46, 2830 m, 19:20, July 30, 2012
Report on the First Ascent
R34 Peak Sever (2830 m) via the North face of the Northwest shoulder. Route category 4B (proposed), first ascent. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1. Team leader: Klepitov A. A. Participants:
- Ilyinsky V. A.
- Scherbany A. N. R20–R10 R5–R1, 10:00
Route Description: В кулуару
Report on the first ascent to the Sibiryachka peak (2870 m) via the Eastern ridge (2A category of complexity) in the Tunka Goltsy mountains, Eastern Sayan.
Irkutsk Regional Public Organization "Club of Active Leisure and Alpinism Gory Baikala"
Report on the First Ascent
To v. Sibir' 2870 m via the Eastern ridge. Approximately 2A category of difficulty.
Climbing Passport
- Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie goltsy, Baruun-Khandagai river gorge. Section number according to the classification table 6.1.2.
- Sibir' 2870 m (summit coordinates: 51°54′48.53″N, 102°10′13.40″E) via the Eastern ridge.
- Category of difficulty: proposed 2A first ascent.
- Nature of the route — rocky.
- Route elevation gain: 324 m. Route length: 460 m.
Route Description: ЮВ гребню
Description of a winter ascent to the summit of SOAN (2952 m) via the Southeast Ridge, category 3B, with a detailed analysis of the route and technical details.
Route Description
via the south-eastern ridge of Mt. SOAN (2952 m) in winter. Ascent date: May 5–6. From the base camp (1800 m), located at the fork of the Zuun-Khandagai River on the forest border, the group needs to move up to the southern wall of Mt. SOAN to set up an assault camp. See the diagram. The path goes up along the left stream (orographically) past large high-altitude lakes. The lakes are separated by powerful ascents consisting of: – large stones, – boulders, – rocks. Movement is hampered by depressions between boulders filled with snow. The path across the lakes goes directly across the ice and packed snow. The ascents are steep, and one has to gradually gain altitude, reversing along the slope. The ascent to the first lake, which resembles a flattened animal skin, provides a 350 m elevation gain. The ascent from the first lake to the second rises by 250 m, and the seemingly small peak behind the lake is recommended to be bypassed on the left side in the direction of travel. From the second lake, there is a 100 m ascent consisting of rock fragments and a rocky slope.
Route Description: левой части СЗ стены
Ascent to the summit Yrydag via the 1st western route up the center of the left part of the NW wall, 5B cat. of difficulty, 1120 m of height difference, 57 hours of climbing time.
I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. CAUCASUS, Yaridag massif, Mt Shchedrina 3. Mt Yaridag I-western, 4020 m, via the center of the left part of the NW wall. 4. Route category 6B (according to the classification table – 5B category) 5. Route characteristics: — height difference: 1120 m — length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty: 939 m — average steepness: 68° 6. Pitons hammered: — for belaying: 251