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Description of a new Category IIIB route to Plastun peak (2374 m) via the South-Eastern wall in the Tunkin Goltsy mountain range, with detailed breakdown of sections and photographs.

Ascent record for Mt. Plastun (2374 m) via the Southeast wall, rated 3B category.

  1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Serebryanoe valley (Vetryany region), section 6.1.2.
  2. Mt. Plastun (2374 m) via the Southeast wall.
  3. Rated 3B category, first ascent.
  4. Route type — rock climbing.
  5. Elevation gain 350 m, length 570 m, average slope 50°.
  6. Number of pitons: rock and wired 29 pcs.
  7. Team's travel time — 7 hours.
  8. No overnight stays on the route.
  9. Team: Afanasyev A.E. MS
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Report on the first ascent of the "3D" route, category 4A, on the summit of Aikuaivenchorr in the Khibiny Mountains in 2018.

Arkhangelsk Region Climbing and Rock Climbing Federation

REPORT

On the first ascent to the summit of Aikuayvenchorr Central (1075 m) via the "3D" route, category 4A, by the Arkhangelsk Region team on March 23, 2018. Leader: Dmitry Alexandrovich Shpilevoy Participants:

  • Dmitry Andreevich Rybalchenko
  • Dmitry Olegovich Dolzhenkov Coach: Sergey Konstantinovich Penzov Responsible for the report: D. A. Rybalchenko rybalchenko92@yandex.ru Severodvinsk 2018
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Report on the first ascent to the top of Sverdlovsk via the 2B category route along the western counterfort of the southern ridge.

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT SVERDLOVSK VIA THE WESTERN BUTTRESS OF THE SOUTH RIDGE, CATEGORY 2B DIFFICULTY, BY THE TEAM OF THE "GORY BAIKALA" CLUB FROM 26.04.2018 TO 26.04.2018

I. Climbing Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderPanova Alena Mikhailovna (1st sports rank)
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsDmitriev Dmitry Vladimirovich, Pyankovskaya Svetlana Petrovna, Shelikov Alexey Ivanovich, Khabdaev Alexey Kirillovich
1.3Full name of the coachGlazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich
1.4OrganizationIrkutsk Regional Public Organization "Club of Active Recreation and Alpinism 'Gory Baikal'"
2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object
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Report on the first ascent of the "1000 лет города Бреста" route, category 3B, to the Sverdlovsk peak in the Eastern Sayan Mountains.

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT SVERDLOVSK VIA THE "1000 LETIYA GORODA BRESTA" ROUTE ALONG THE CENTRAL WESTERN COUNTERFORT, CATEGORY 3B, BY THE TEAM: BREST REGIONAL PUBLIC ASSOCIATION OF ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING "VERSHINA" FOR THE PERIOD FROM JUNE 26, 2019 TO JUNE 26, 2019

I. Climbing Report

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the team leaderDedushko Nikita Gennadyevich, 1st sports rank
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsPanova Alyona Mikhailovna, Candidate Master of Sports, Marchuk Nikita Ivanovich, 3rd sports rank, Andreev Grigory Alekseyevich, 3rd sports rank
1.3Full name of the coachDedushko Nikita Gennadyevich
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Description of the 3A category route to the Sever peak (2855 m) in the Eastern Sayan Mountains via the eastern ridge.

Й­ц­у­к­е­н­г­ш­щ­з­х­ъ­ф­ы­в­а­п­р­о­л­д­ж­э­я­ч

Смить­бю­й­ц­у­к­е­н­г­ш­щ­з­х­ъ­ф­ы­в­а­п

Ы­в­а­п­р­о­л­д­ж­э­я­ч­с­м­и­т­ь­бю­й­ц­у­к­е­н

Covering letter. Hello, respected members of the classification commission! The leader of this ascent, B.A. Khandazhapov, is addressing you. As part of the FASIO training camp held in the Sayan Mountains from November 1 to 9, 2014, we completed this ascent. After a meeting of the coaching council consisting of:

  • S.A. Kirillov — senior coach,
  • S.V. Kosoturov — training officer,
  • B.A. Khandazhapov — instructor, 3rd category, it was decided to petition the FAR classification commission to raise the category of difficulty of this route to 3A. Under my leadership, the participants compiled a report. I ask you to familiarize yourselves with it and make a decision. Sincerely, B.A. Khandazhapov.
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Report on the first ascent of the route of 3A category of difficulty along the North-West ridge of the Sever peak (2830 m) in the Tunkin Goltsy ridge, Eastern Sayan.

Report on the First Ascent

Peak Sever (2830 m?) North-West ridge, route 3A cat. diff. (proposed), first ascent. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1 Team Leader: Klepikov A.A. Team Members:

  • Ometov A.A.
  • Putko K.V. 2013

Climbing Report

  1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1.
  2. Peak Sever (2830 m?), NW ridge.
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Report on the first ascent of a Category 4B route via the North face of the northwestern shoulder of the Sever peak (2830 m) in the Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Eastern Sayan.

R46, 2830 m, 19:20, July 30, 2012

Report on the First Ascent

R34 Peak Sever (2830 m) via the North face of the Northwest shoulder. Route category 4B (proposed), first ascent. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1. Team leader: Klepitov A. A. Participants:

  • Ilyinsky V. A.
  • Scherbany A. N. R20–R10 R5–R1, 10:00
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Report on the first ascent to the Sibiryachka peak (2870 m) via the Eastern ridge (2A category of complexity) in the Tunka Goltsy mountains, Eastern Sayan.

Irkutsk Regional Public Organization "Club of Active Leisure and Alpinism Gory Baikala"

Report on the First Ascent

To v. Sibir' 2870 m via the Eastern ridge. Approximately 2A category of difficulty.

Climbing Passport

  1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie goltsy, Baruun-Khandagai river gorge. Section number according to the classification table 6.1.2.
  2. Sibir' 2870 m (summit coordinates: 51°54′48.53″N, 102°10′13.40″E) via the Eastern ridge.
  3. Category of difficulty: proposed 2A first ascent.
  4. Nature of the route — rocky.
  5. Route elevation gain: 324 m. Route length: 460 m.
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Description of a winter ascent to the summit of SOAN (2952 m) via the Southeast Ridge, category 3B, with a detailed analysis of the route and technical details.

Route Description

via the south-eastern ridge of Mt. SOAN (2952 m) in winter. Ascent date: May 5–6. From the base camp (1800 m), located at the fork of the Zuun-Khandagai River on the forest border, the group needs to move up to the southern wall of Mt. SOAN to set up an assault camp. See the diagram. The path goes up along the left stream (orographically) past large high-altitude lakes. The lakes are separated by powerful ascents consisting of: – large stones, – boulders, – rocks. Movement is hampered by depressions between boulders filled with snow. The path across the lakes goes directly across the ice and packed snow. The ascents are steep, and one has to gradually gain altitude, reversing along the slope. The ascent to the first lake, which resembles a flattened animal skin, provides a 350 m elevation gain. The ascent from the first lake to the second rises by 250 m, and the seemingly small peak behind the lake is recommended to be bypassed on the left side in the direction of travel. From the second lake, there is a 100 m ascent consisting of rock fragments and a rocky slope.

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Ascent to the summit Yrydag via the 1st western route up the center of the left part of the NW wall, 5B cat. of difficulty, 1120 m of height difference, 57 hours of climbing time.

I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. CAUCASUS, Yaridag massif, Mt Shchedrina 3. Mt Yaridag I-western, 4020 m, via the center of the left part of the NW wall. 4. Route category 6B (according to the classification table – 5B category) 5. Route characteristics: — height difference: 1120 m — length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty: 939 m — average steepness: 68° 6. Pitons hammered: — for belaying: 251

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