Ascents 2428

1. Class of Ascent: Rocky.
2. Area of Ascent, ridge: Central Altai. North-Tuy­sky Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, route of Ascent: **P. Zelinsky 3500 m northern ridge.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 3B.
5. Characteristics of the route: Height difference: 1000 m. Length of sections: 5–6 c.t.: 200 m. Average steepness: 50-60%.
6. Number of piton drivenforbelay: Rock.
7. Number of travel hours:16–17 hrs.

Passport

1. Region — Altai, Shavlo gorge, section number according to KMGV — 1.2.
2. Peak — Kapitsa P.L. Peak (3720 m), according to CF S3
3. Proposed category 3A, first ascent.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Height difference of the route 700 m Route length M Length of sections: difficulty category M, difficulty category M

ASCENT CERTIFICATE. №1

1. Altai, Aktru gorge, section 1.
2. Karatash peak, via the Western couloir from Pravyy Aktru glacier.
3. Proposed category 2B difficulty, first ascent.
4. The nature of the route is combined.
5. The route's height difference is 800 m, the route length is 2500 m, the average steepness of the main part is 45°, and the overall route is 25°.
6. Pitons hammered in: ice screws — 2.
7. Team's travel time — 5 hours.
8. Leader Khilko V. CMS Team members:

Karatash 4A via North wall V. Kozhin 1956

Between 1990 and 1999, the author climbed all existing routes marked on the map on Karatash peak. During the first ascent of the SE couloir of the NE ridge on October 18, 1990, by a group consisting of:

• Afanasyev A.,
• Arshavsky N.,
• Malashchenko A.,
• Mishkov A.,
• Shilkin E. a note was found dated October 1, 1969, from a group consisting of Mitrokhin Yu.I., Chugulin Yu., Mikhin V.A., Sharafutdinov. Later, on July 25, 1998, an ascent was made along the NE buttress, where signs of previous ascents were found in some places:
• a platform on a talus shelf,
• a rock hook,

Ascent Log

1. Altai, Severo-Chuyskie Belki ridge, Aktru gorge, section 1.
2. Karatash peak, 3535 m, via the left part of the North face.
3. Proposed category: 4B, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Height difference: 1100 m, length: 2500 m, average steepness of the main part: 60°.
6. Pitons used: 50 rock and nut.
7. Climbing hours: 18, days: 2.
8. Leader: Afanasyev A.E., Master of Sports Participants:

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing area — Altai, Aktru valley.
2. Name of the peak: Karatash, via the center of the north face.
3. 6A category of difficulty, 3rd ascent.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Route elevation gain — 1030 m. Route length — 1298 m. Length of sections with V category of difficulty – 195 m, VI category of difficulty – 255 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 73°, total route — 59°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total — 0, including bolted pitons — 0. Pitons used on the route: stationary bolted pitons — 0, including artificial aids — 0; removable bolted pitons — 2, including artificial aids — 2.

Ascent

The ascent to v. Krasavitsa via the northern wall (approximately 3A category of difficulty) was made by a group of climbers from the Altai Regional Federation of Alpinism expedition. GROUP COMPOSITION

1. Kuznetsov N. A. 2nd sports category
2. Bondarchuk N. M. Master of Sports
3. Luzhetsky B. N. Master of Sports
4. Makeev V. P. CMS
5. Morgachev V. N. 1st sports category
6. Fedorov V. A. 1st sports category Group Leader: KUZNETSOV N. A.

V. Kzyl-Tash via Uchetel' Pass, cat. 3

From the lower building of Aktru weather station, ascend via a wide couloir, along its right side on an old trail in the direction of Uchetel' Pass. The ascent to the north-eastern ridge of Uchetel' Pass takes 1–1.5 hours. Move along the easy ridge in the direction of the summit for 30–40 minutes until the first difficult sections, before which it is necessary to rope up. Continue in rope teams, moving alternately or simultaneously with protection via rock outcrops. On the ridge, several gendarmes are encountered, which can be bypassed:

• to the right,
• on snow,
• on rock ledges. The north-eastern ridge ends with a 40-meter wall with an inside corner, which leads to the south-eastern summit ridge (2–2.5 hours). The inside corner, the key section of the route, is covered with ice. It is climbed with thorough piton protection. Further movement proceeds mainly along the left part of the south-eastern ridge. The last gendarme before the summit is bypassed to the right on snow. The ascent to the summit tower is on the right side of the tower (2–2.5 hours). Descent from the summit is via route 1B, cat. 3, to Konteyner Pass. Descent time is 3–3.5 hours.

Ascent Passport

1. Altai, Severo-Chuyskie Belki ridge, Akturu valley, section 1.
2. Kzyl-Tash peak, 3486 m, via the right ridge of the South slope.
3. Proposed category 3B, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock climbing.
5. Height difference — 1200 m, length — 3000 m, average slope — 30°, steepest section — 55°.
6. Pitons used: rock and chocks — 15.
7. Team's total climbing hours — 12 hours.
8. Leader — Afanasiev A.E., Master of Sports. Team members — Salin A.V., 1st sports category, Kuznetsova T.Yu., 2nd sports category.

39

REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF THE USSR CHAMPIONSHIP IN THE CLASS OF "TECHNICALLY COMPLEX" CLIMBS Peak MaaShey-Bash via the northwest wall. Altai. (5B + 1 - approximately) Dedicated to the 50th anniversary of the Soviet State. Team of the Leningrad City Council of the Union of Sports Societies and Organizations of the RSFSR. 1967.

1. Geographical description and sporting characteristics of the climb object.

Peak MaaShey-Bash (4200 m) is the highest point of the North-Chuya mountain node ("Bish-Murdu"), one of the most picturesque regions of Mountainous Altai. The node is formed by the North-Chuya ridge, stretching in a latitudinal direction between the rivers Chuya to the north, Karagem and Chegan-Uzun to the south. The MaaShey-Bash massif is located in the western part of the ridge. Its northern slopes give rise to the MaaShey glacier, the second longest in Altai (10 km). The MaaShey-Yul river flows out of the glacier and runs north until it meets the Chuya. To the east of MaaShey, the North-Chuya ridge is composed of the peaks Karagem, Bars, Tamma, Burvestnik, UPI, and Snezhnaya. The northern spur of the ridge at peak Burvestnik separates the MaaShey and Ak-Tru glaciers. MaaShey-Bash drops to the north with severe walls that capture the attention of climbers. The classified route (4B) to the summit follows the northern ridge, which separates the Left and Central MaaShey glaciers. Routes on the northeast wall (snow and ice, with small rocky outcrops) are objectively hazardous due to the hanging snow cornices above. Their formation is likely facilitated by heavy precipitation and strong southwest winds this year.