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Description of the route along the North ridge of Bronya peak, complexity category VII, with a detailed analysis of the sections and approaches.

Gro­ma 25 cm. 2 mi­be­re:

  • 800
  • 1000
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  • 4000
  1. 1000 res­se­mo­tseo, K. Akt­au­e 11, 12. 1125, 1125, 112. 112.85 r. Section R0–R1. Straight ridge 150 m. 40°. Section R1–R2. Ridge 300 m · 20°. Section R2–R3. 1st gendarme — key section. Two walls, through cracks and rocks 7–8 m., 80°. Total length of the section is 100 m., steepness 45°. 5 m. descent by
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Description of the 5B category difficulty route to the summit of XX let Oktyabrya via the West Face, including details on traversing sections and organizing the approach to the base camp.

Section R0–R1. Crossing a not very high bergschrund along the southern snowy slope, in some places along rock shelves, exit to a snowy pad. Control tour. Section R1–R2 · 200 m along crumbling rocks and snowy slopes with a total steepness up to 50°. Section R2–R3 · The first gendarme is passed on the left along the wall 55°. Convenient crevices for running belay. Section R3–R4: Rocks of medium difficulty along the counterscarp ridge. Section R5–R6: Rocks filled with ice. In some places, snowy overhangs and cornices. In the upper part of the section, the second gendarme is passed on the left. Section R5–R6: Ice ridge with rock outcrops.

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### Description of the First Ascent to the Delone Peak via the North Face in Altai during the 14th Russian Mountaineering Championship in 1996.

Ascent Profile

  1. Class: ice and snow
  2. Region: Altai, Akkem gorge
  3. Peak: Delaunay, left part of the NW side
  4. Proposed: 5B category of difficulty, first ascent
  5. Height difference: 1100 m. Length: 1600 m to the Delaunay–Belukha ridge. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty: 630 m, 6th category: 55 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 59°.
  6. Pitons driven:
    • rock pitons — 7
    • chocks — 38
    • ice screws — 52
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A route to the summit of Nai Tarasevich (3450 m) with a complexity category of 3A, passing through Akkem Lake and the glacier, with a description of the approach path and key landmarks.

Наи Тарасевича (3450) 3А cat. 4, diff. 10А steepness 400,686 n.p., 500,45 cat. 4,5 000 4. ro­bu­ce, C, fe­n­cu­ret­ted, 10. uce­nur, r. Пу­сан­ц 22/8–88 г. The ap­proach be­gins from the campsites on Lake Yak­kem. The trail goes:

  • along the lake shore,
  • then along the Ak­kem river, cross­ing it in the mid­dle part. It takes 2.5–3 hours to reach the glacier tongue. Cross­ing the Ak­kem glacier to the other side to the left (orographically) slope. Up along the clean brook on the mo­rena - ascent to the hang­ing val­ley of PF glacier. From the Ak­kem glacier tongue to the firn line in the PF cirque, it takes 2 hours to ap­proach. On the right - a rocky bastion of Vasily Tarasevich peak, on the left - an icy panzer of Nikolai Rerikh peak.
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Description of the 5A category route to Tarasevich Peak (Katunsky Ridge, Altai) via the right buttress of the south-east wall.

11.51 122

PASSPORT

  1. Rock class.
  2. Region Altai, Katunsky ridge, Akkem gorge.
  3. V. Tarasevich right cf. SE wall. 3500 m.
  4. Proposed 5A cat. diff.
  5. Height difference 550 m, length 780 m. Average steepness 50°.
  6. Pitons hammered: rock 4, chocks 32.
  7. Climbing hours (from bivouac on the stream flowing from the circus and to bivouac) 14 h.
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Description of the 2A category complexity route to Titov Peak in the Katun Range, Altai, with details on the approach and ascent.

  1. Rock climbing.
  2. Altai, Katunsky ridge.
  3. Classified as 2A for route category modification.
  4. Height difference 450 m, length 1900 m.
  5. Moving time 8.5 hours from the camp under Boris peak.
  6. Mokhova V.M. 1st sports category. Belyaev P.A. 3rd sports category. Vinnikov K.E. 1st sports category. Egorov L.M. 3rd sports category.
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Description of a new Category IIb route to the summit of Aktru (4044 m) via the South Face, Altai, with a detailed breakdown of sections and technical details.

Ascent Record

  1. Altai, Aktru gorge, section 1.
  2. Aktru peak, 4044 m, via the South slope.
  3. Proposed category: 2B, first ascent.
  4. Route type: combined.
  5. Elevation gain: 500 m, distance: 700 m, average steepness of the main part: 45°.
  6. Pitons used: 2 rock, 2 ice.
  7. Team's total climbing hours: 5 hours.
  8. Leader: Afanasiev A.E., Candidate Master of Sports. Team members: Shakleev V.I., Candidate Master of Sports, Morozov V.V., Candidate Master of Sports.
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Ascent to Mt. Aktru via the eastern wall (4A cat. of difficulty) through rocky islands and icy slopes, route description and key obstacles.

в. АКТРУ, east wall, 4A cat. dif. (according to the report on the first ascent, Tsybkin L.P., July 1959) Approach from GMS Aktru through the Uчитель pass to the Kuрумду gorge. Crossing the Kuрумду icefall:

  • Crossed from the right along the edge of the rocks в. Kuрумду in teams.
  • Time to cross the icefall — 1 h. Overnight stay on the scree under the wall в. Актру. Time from GMS Aktru to the overnight stay — 7 h. The route to the summit goes along the rocky ridge, divided by snow and ice sections into five rocky islands. The height of the wall — 800 m.
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Ascent to Peak Geograf (3420 m) via the southern slope and eastern ridge, category 3A, route description and approaches.

Ascent Passport

To peak Geograf, 3420 m, 3A cat. diff.

  1. Mountainous Altai, Severo-Chuyskiy Ridge, eastern spur of the main ridge between Maashey gorge (Mazhoy, Maashejul) and Shavla River gorge.
  2. Peak Geograf, 3420 m, via the Southern slope and Eastern ridge.
  3. Proposed — 3A cat. diff., first ascent.
  4. Nature of the route — rocky.
  5. Height difference of the route: 820 m (by aneroid barometer). Route length: 410 m. Length of sections:
    • 2 cat. diff. — 140 m;
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Description of the traverse of Glaciolog and Turist peaks (Cat. 2A) in Altai with route details and technical characteristics.

  1. Region: Altai. Severo-Chuyskiy ridge.
  2. Peak: Glyaciolog – Turist traverse
  3. Category: 2A category
  4. Route type: rocky
  5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 750 m Route length — 2400 m Average slope — 35°
  6. Duration: 11 hours
  7. Leader:
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