Section R0–R1. Crossing a not very high bergschrund along the southern snowy slope, in some places along rock shelves, exit to a snowy pad. Control tour.

Section R1–R2 · 200 m along crumbling rocks and snowy slopes with a total steepness up to 50°.

Section R2–R3 · The first gendarme is passed on the left along the wall 55°. Convenient crevices for running belay.

Section R3–R4: Rocks of medium difficulty along the counterscarp ridge.

Section R5–R6: Rocks filled with ice. In some places, snowy overhangs and cornices. In the upper part of the section, the second gendarme is passed on the left.

Section R5–R6: Ice ridge with rock outcrops.

Section R6–R7: The third gendarme is passed on the left along an ice-filled chimney.

Section R7–R8: Ice ridge with cornices to the left. Section R8–R9: Snow-covered rock wall. Section R9–R10: Snowy-ice slope with rock islands. Section R10–R11: Ice slope, in the upper part - a knife. Section R11–R12: Firn cornice, passed by cutting through. Section R12–R13: Very long summit ridge to the main summit.

Descent along route 4А cat. sl.

From the base camp on Lake Ak-Kem:

  • a good dirt path leads up the valley along the Ak-Kem river;
  • along it to the tongue of the Ak-Kemsky or Rodzevich glacier - 1.5–2 hours walk;
  • the entrance to the glacier is more convenient in the left part;
  • 2 hours walk along the glacier to the main circus of the Western wall of v.XX let Oktyabrya.

Ascent to the circus is along a heavily broken icefall with closed snowy bridges, crevasses. Movement is in rope teams.

It is more convenient to make an overnight stay under the route on the upper field

Sources

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