Sokol — 5

Rope 50–60 m, 14 quickdraws, nuts, cams, slings.

General Impression:

Interesting route, not cluttered with ironmongery. The route has something in common with the "Ear" on Foros, although the key rope section here is more challenging.

Sokol. The route on the right side of the left breast with exit to "Between the Breasts" 4A (A. Brynza — Kobylsky (Dnepropetrovsk)).

A rather interesting route if you climb from the road without shortening the ropes on the shelf. By taking the "shortcut," the route is not sufficiently loaded with difficulties for 4A; it's more like a heavy 3B — due to its length. Sokol. On the right side of the left breast with exit to "Between the Breasts" 4A

Technical description of the route:

• R0–R1: The first rope coincides with the "Between the Breasts" route. The station coincides.
• R1–R2: 45 m, 5c, insurance is organized easily:
• pitons

Crimea, Sokol mountain. "Ne hAchu" Route

Sokol. "Ne hAchu" Route (S. Nadtochiy — A. Kuzmenko — A. Lavrinenko, November 17, 2006) 4A The last rope pitch poses a serious danger: insurance is organized only by a hollow sound, bollards are hammered "for passage", and in case of a deep fall, there is a risk of tearing off a huge 15 m × 10 m flake on the station. Sokol. Routes:

• Vspomnit vse
• Bolshaya progulka
• Ne hAchu

Sokol. "Myth" Route 4B (author unknown).

Recommended equipment:

• Rope 60 m
• 14–16 quickdraws
• Set of nuts
• Set of cams (large 2–3 pieces will ease the process)
• Hammer is mandatory
• Pitons — mandatory
• Large slings

Falcon — 18

Author: Sovich Alexey, Kiev. The route description is based on the state as of August 19, 2003. Photos taken with a "Smena-8M" camera. "Fourth between the breasts" route, 4B category A fairly interesting 4B route. It can be a good warm-up before attempting Sokol's 5th category routes. Over the years, the route has changed slightly — it has become a bit more challenging:

• Rockfalls have destroyed several convenient trees.
• Water flows have smoothed out the relief on the second key — the лобке (forehead).
• For various reasons, there are fewer pitons on the route. In my opinion, all these changes have only made the route more mature. I believe the route is even more interesting than "White Triangle" (5A), especially in light of the recent changes. You also need to make your own belay points — there aren't many pitons here. For the route, it's sufficient to have:

Sokol — 27

«White Triangle» 5B

This is the most popular fifth category route on the Southern wall of Sokol. The route is pitoned perfectly, I recommend bringing:

• 18 quickdraws
• two Shtelnov's cams — first and eighth sizes It is considered that the route's grade is 5B, but, in my opinion, this assessment is somewhat overestimated. The approach is the same as for the "Comma". Having reached the ledge under the wall, move along it to the right till the end. On the way, there is an unpleasant passage, insurance is desirable. The start is under a

So­kol — 9

Jap­o­n­sky sa­dik 5A cat. dif. (Yu. Li­sh­ayev)

R0–R1: 40 m, 6a+, A1. In some places natural protection is in destroyed cracks. Station on existing pitons and personal protection gear. Be careful, rocks are destroyed. R1–R2: 35–40 m, 5b. Careful exit to a ledge with trees (so-called "Japanese garden"). Station on one of the trees. R2–R3: 45–50 m, 5b+. Even climbing along the crack, with convenient belay organization. Exit to the station is to the right out of the crack, 6–7 m along the slabs to the ledge. Station on two bolts on the ledge. R3–R4: 45–50 m, 5c+. Even climbing along the crack upwards to the "nashlyapka"

Sokol – 12 y.o.

Ryжий угол (Red corner) 5A cat. diff. #26

R0–R2: 100 m, simple climbing straight up to the right (start as in "Galochka" mt.). R2–R3: 35 m, 5b+. Dangerous rope due to crumbling rock. Belay is relative. Station on a micro-shelf in the corner on a piton and a new bolt. R3–R4: 35 m, 6a+, A2. Difficult, overhanging rope. Protection on pitons and some own (big cams). In the upper part, loose rocks, be careful. Better to move left to a crack. Station on a ledge on bolts. R4–R5: 50 m, 5c. Hard climbing on quite crumbling terrain. Protection is difficult. Station on a half-lying tree on a ledge. R5–R6: 35 m. Easy traverse rightwards along the ledge towards "Galochka". Station on a tree. Then you can go in two ways:

• left through a "gully", towards "Grebnevaya dvojka" and then along it;
• continue rightwards along the ledge till the junction with "Galochka" route.

Equipment:

Rope 50–60 m, nuts, cams (big sizes mandatory), extenders, 1–3 ladders, 14–16 quickdraws, hammer, pitons.

General impressions:

Difficult 5A, requiring the ability to realistically assess the situation and organize belay properly. The skill level of "Pravyj Romb" (Right Rhombus) may be insufficient for this route. Climbing time for an average team is 5–6 hours

Sokol (Crimea) — "Amazonka" 5A

Sokol mountain. Crimea A new route has been passed on Sokol mountain in Crimea. Participants of the ascent:

• Maxim Kuralesov, Nikopol city
• Mikhail Poddubnov, Dnipropetrovsk city The length of the route is 300 m. The proposed category of complexity is 5A. This ascent is not a first ascent in the pure form. According to information from Sergey Nadtochy, the lower four sections were once climbed by Vladimir Kudrigsky, but he was not the first ascender either. There were indeed pitons there. Above, there were no traces. Although the inner corner leading to the yayla could have been used as a finish for the routes:

So­kol — 16

Along the counter­forc­ed left breast 5A cat. diff.[№24]

R0–R1: 45 m, 6b+. Climbing a system of internal corners with an exit to the ridge, with a problem to organize belays, especially in the upper part. Requires a safety margin in climbing and mental toughness. Belay station on a bolt + own gear, under an overhang on the left. Quite a dangerous transition to the station, from the ridge under the overhang! R1–R2: 30–35 m, 6c+, A2. Climbing:

• Left and then up to the right
• Unpleasant climbing on jammed rocks
• Further up a vertical crack in the direction of a tree Belay: own + three bolts available (one new). Especially dangerous is the exit to the tree. Station in an internal corner after the tree on own gear. R2–R3: 25–30 m, 5B. Simple climbing on corners and cracks with easy belay organization (careful climbing on live rocks). Station on a ledge on own gear. R3–R4: 50 m, 6A+. Careful climbing on a system of ledges and internal corners in the direction of a large gnarled tree. Belay is easy to organize. Station in a niche behind the gnarled tree… sinking in fallen leaves.