Sokol. "Myth" Route 4B (author unknown).
Recommended equipment:
- Rope 60 m
- 14–16 quickdraws
- Set of nuts
- Set of cams (large 2–3 pieces will ease the process)
- Hammer is mandatory
- Pitons — mandatory
- Large slings
Routes on the SE wall of Sokol Mt.
Routes on the SE wall of Sokol Mt.
Technical description of the route:
- R0–R1: 50 m 4B, very simple climbing through a leaf-filled gully, at the end, navigate through tree branches. Insurance is organized easily. Station on one of the trees. The place is convenient but dangerous for the second climber, as rocks fall directly onto the station from the next rope.
- R1–R2: 60 m 5c, problematic, crumbling inside-crack rope, very hard to control lying stones, rocks, blocks — the rope easily dislodges them. Insurance is organized on very large elements; the last 15 m are not insured, climbing is simple here, but everything is literally precarious. Moving out of the crack to the left does not justify hopes; it's the same nonsense. Station on a huge ledge with pines. It's possible to get here from the start of the "Vechnaya Molodost" route.
- R2–R3: move along the ledge to a medium-sized pine at the base of the counterfort. 60 m, 5c; move along a logical crack about 10 meters parallel to the counterfort. Insurance is organized at the start of the crack using trees, then on personal gear, sometimes problematic. Station on personal gear, in a small niche 1.5 m to the left of the crack; there's a place for a piton and a nut in the crack itself. At this point, it's possible to transition to "Vechnaya Molodost" if it seems too dangerous. The next ropes are heavier.
- R3–R4: 50 m 5c+, insurance is organized on personal gear plus a tree, need to transition to the right crack in time. Station in a corner on a piton, nut, and bolt. Station is convenient.
- R4–R5: 50 m, 5c up the chimney, insurance initially on large elements, and then 10–12 m (if using artificial aids — A2–A3) meters on dubious holds; the crack is heavily destroyed; we left pitons on this rope — don't fully trust them. It gets easier after the bolt. Station on a bolt and a small tree on "Grebnevaya Dvoika", the same as on "Vechnaya Molodost".
The entire route takes 4–6 hours. November 28, 2005. Nadtochiy S. (Sudak) — Gainulov E. (Kazan)