Sokol — 27

«White Triangle» 5B

This is the most popular fifth category route on the Southern wall of Sokol. The route is pitoned perfectly, I recommend bringing:

• 18 quickdraws
• two Shtelnov's cams — first and eighth sizes

It is considered that the route's grade is 5B, but, in my opinion, this assessment is somewhat overestimated. The approach is the same as for the "Comma". Having reached the ledge under the wall, move along it to the right till the end. On the way, there is an unpleasant passage, insurance is desirable. The start is under a 2-meter chimney. The first belay station is on a tree.

R1 — First up the chimney, then along the cracks (in one place it's possible to bypass using a cam), bypassing a small overhang to the right, under the "crown", which should be bypassed to the right and it's better not to touch it. Then up to a small internal corner, through which step to the left and then up to the station on 2 bolts.

R1 45 m 85° VI

R2 — Up to an internal corner, along it, then a long traverse to the left (bolts) in the direction of an internal corner formed by a "patch" and the wall. Along the internal corner reach a small ledge.

R2 45 m 80° V.

R3 — up an internal corner, then along the slabs. The station is on a small ledge.

R3 35 m 80° V

R4 — up the slabs to a small internal corner.

R4 40 m 80° V

R5 — up and left under an overhang, which should be passed at its narrowest part (has a "pocket" and two bolts above). Further along the flattening slabs to the yayla.

• R5
• 45 м
• 80° V