Crimea, Sokol mountain. "Ne hAchu" Route

Sokol. "Ne hAchu" Route (S. Nadtochiy — A. Kuzmenko — A. Lavrinenko, November 17, 2006) 4A

The last rope pitch poses a serious danger: insurance is organized only by a hollow sound, bollards are hammered "for passage", and in case of a deep fall, there is a risk of tearing off a huge 15 m × 10 m flake on the station.

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Sokol. Routes:

  • Vspomnit vse
  • Bolshaya progulka
  • Ne hAchu

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Sokol. Routes:

  • Vspomnit vse
  • Ne hAchu
  • Sestry Zaytsevy

Technical description of the route:

  • R0–R1: 40 m 5a;

Climbing with insurance organization in comfortable places, before the station — an old bollard. The station is self-made, in a crack behind a bush.

  • R1–R2: 30 m 6a(A2):

Difficult to organize insurance until the bollard, transition to the left — climbing, carefully holding on to the irregularities of the relief. Be more careful, there are destroyed areas. The station is on a tree on a shelf.

  • R2–R3: 30 m 5a:

Climbing with easily organized insurance on trees. The station is on a comfortable shelf on a tree.

  • R3–R4: 40–45 m.

Straight up on inclined slabs. Climbing is absent. The station is on the extreme tree.

  • R4–R5: 35 m 5b:

Climbing with temporarily difficult to organize insurance on the corner. When exiting the corner to the right to the station:

  • heavily destroyed rock (flakes)

  • station on bollards.

  • R5–R6: 30 m 6a+ (A3):

Tense piton insurance, there are two bollards "for passage" hammered into a huge hollow flake. Climbing to the very edge of the plateau. Station on a small tree + your own weight.

Recommended equipment:

  • 50 m rope
  • set of stoppers
  • pitons
  • friends/camlocks 1.5–2.5
  • assorted pitons
  • 5–6 loops
  • 12 quickdraws
  • hammer is mandatory
  • ladder

Sources

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