The unnamed peak "3160 m" (absolute height according to the state topographic map M 1:25 000) is located in the middle part of a heavily dissected rocky massif, towering above the Karadjazh tract in the Northwest end of the Sofiyskiy ridge on its segment from the Karadzhash pass to the peak "Dimitrov-100". To the Northwest of it is:

• the peak named after Bulgaro-Soviet friendship (3226 m) To the Southeast is the Unnamed peak (conditionally "3100"), the first route to which has not yet been laid (photo I). The peak "3160", as an object of first ascent, was chosen during reconnaissance group trips in November and December 1981, as well as January 1982 and was approved by the coaching council of the joint Soviet-Bulgarian expedition "Arkhyz-82". The most acceptable route for the first ascent seemed to be (in its initial part) along the steep snowy slope of the Northeast exposure to the saddle between the peaks named after Bulgaro-Soviet friendship and "3160". The relative avalanche safety of this path was assessed during the last reconnaissance (within the framework of "Arkhyz-82") on April 30, 1982 by a snow and avalanche specialist of the VGI, candidate of geographical sciences A. Runich. The nearest classified peak - "3200", 1B cat. difficulty - is located to the Southwest of the Stolicny pass (see the overview orographic scheme). The approach to the start of the route can be made in two ways:
• from the "Syrzavod" clearing up the r. Kashka-Eshek
• from the "Sofia" shelter up the r. Gammash-Chat

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Sofia via the northwest slope and west ridge, category 2A complexity, by the team of SAC "Maximum", August 3, 2023.

I. Ascent Passport

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT NADEZHDA VIA THE NORTHERN SLOPE ROUTE, CATEGORY 2A COMPLEXITY, BY THE TEAM OF RSOO "FAM" MOSCOW, JULY 26, 2023 2024

I. Climbing Report Details

Fig. 5

2. Ascent to the summit of Severny Aksaut (3540 m) from the northeast - category 2B (see Fig. 5)

From Domai through the Jalovchat pass and descent to the "barany lby" (ram's foreheads) above the Jalovchat glacier - bivouac. From Domai campsite 7-8 hours. From the bivouac descent to the Jalovchat glacier and further, crossing it in the direction of the Severny Aksaut summit, to the rocky outcrop. To the left of the rocky outcrop upwards and along the glacier to the eastern spur of Severny Aksaut. Ascent along the destroyed rocks of the spur to the right - upwards 80-90 m, then exit to the right onto the glacier (the glacier is cut, crevasses, insurance!) and along the glacier to the right - upwards - exit to the rocks. Then:

• through the bergschrund (insurance!) ascent along the destroyed rocks (insurance through ledges, местами крючьевая!);
• further along the snow - exit to the Severny Aksaut pass. From the bivouac on "barany lby" 4-5 hours. Further see the description of the ascent to the summit of Severny Aksaut from the northwest.

Recommendations for climbers

Fig. 18

1. Ascent to the summit of Zadnaya Belalakaya (3740 m) — category 2A difficulty (fig. 18, A)

From Dombay plain across the bridge over the Alibek river and along the trail to the stream, descending from the large Belalakaya couloir. Cross the stream to the snowfield and ascend 300–350 m up. Then left into the Sofrujinsky couloir (rockfall hazard!) and up along it to a large overhanging rock. Further left-up along the steep section of the couloir to the trail and along it to the Medvezhья (Bear) clearing. From the Medvezhья clearing, first through alpine meadows (trail), then through snow and 300–350 m along the eastern slopes of Belalakaya to the Sofrujinsky bivouac. From Dombay plain 5–6 hours. From the bivouac (in rope teams!) along the Sofrujinsky glacier to the north-eastern ridge of Zadnaya Belalakaya. Exit to the ridge from the right in the lower part (bergschrund, protection!) and further to the right — up to the ridge saddle. From the saddle directly along the destroyed and loose rocks of the ridge to a ledge and along it to a couloir. Up the couloir to two rock outcrops left of the ridge inflection and exit to the ridge. Along the right side of the ridge up to the second outcrop of the crest. Behind it — to a wide couloir, then up to the ridge inflection and along the right side of the crest — exit to the summit.

• From the bivouac: 3–4 hours
• The entire route is rockfall hazardous!

Fig. 13

1. Ascent to the summit of Dzhalovchat (3870 m) — cat. diff. 1B (Fig. 13)

From Dombayskaya Polyana to the alpinist camp "Alibek" and further along the trail to Turyego Lake. From Turyego Lake, ascent along the moraine of the Dvuyazychny glacier (along the trail in the direction of the Dzhalovchatsky pass). Through the "baраньи лбы" (rocky outcrops) exit to the glacier and along it (in rope teams!), not reaching 200–250 m to the Dzhalovchatsky pass. Then left along the rocks of the eastern slope of the Sunakhet peak, through a marginal crevasse and along a steep snowy slope — exit to the saddle between the peaks of Sunakhet and Uzlovaya Dzhalovchat, bivouac site. From Dombayskaya Polyana 7–8 hours. From the bivouac along the snowy slope to the summit of Uzlovaya. From it, a gentle descent to the snowy saddle to the summit of Dzhalovchat. From the saddle, along the right side of a not steep, ruined ridge upwards to the summit (insurance, rockfall danger!). Exit to the summit along a sharp snowy ridge. The ascent to the summit from the bivouac takes 2.5–3 hours. Descent along the ascent route to Dombayskaya Polyana — 7–8 hours.

1. Number of participants in the group — no more than 10–15 people.
2. Initial bivouac — saddle between the peaks of Sunakhet and Uzlovaya Dzhalovchat.

Description

Climb route #49 to peak Dzhalovchat (Uzl) Cat. 1B to col Dzhalovchat. From the Alibek base camp follow the trail to the Turye lake. Pitch a bivouac. From the bivouac, ascend first along the green moraine starting from the lake, and then along the "ram's foreheads" and the glacier in the direction of the Dzhalovchat col. 200-250 m before the col, turn left and then move along the eastern slope of peak Sunakhet. Cross the marginal crevasse and ascend a steep snow-ice slope to the saddle between peaks Sunakhet and Dzhalovchat Uzlovaya (the glacier is heavily crevassed, belay!!!). Then, ascend along the ridge with snow and ice ridges to peak Dzhalovchat Uzlovaya. From the bivouac at the Turye lake, the ascent takes 6-8 hours. Descend back to the original bivouac via the same route.

Route Conclusion

The group believes that the route they have taken is no less difficult and long compared to a similar route to peak Sofrudju, and corresponds to a Cat. 1B route.

Fig. 32

6. Ascent to the eastern peak of Dzhuguturluchat (3800 m) from the north — cat. dif. 3B (see Fig. 32)

From the saddle to the left of Iné peak along the plateau upwards along the northern ridge to a wide (50° slope) ice-snow couloir, crossing a bergschrund and up the ice-snow couloir to a snow pad on the northern ridge (belay; in the second half of summer — ice, ice screws, crampons!). Further along the ridge and through a destroyed gendarme (2 pitons, rockfall hazard!) on the ridge — exit under the obelisk of the summit. After the gendarme, left along a steep snow patch (belay, in case of ice — ice screws!) 60–70 m and exit onto rocks. On the rocks:

• ascent to a narrow couloir going up (2 pitons!)

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Elbrus Eastern 5621 m.

from the east through the Achkeryakolsky lava flow Presumably 2A category of complexity Leader: Gavrilov Ilya Vladimirovich 2010 Addresses: 357500, Stavropol Territory, Pyatigorsk, Ogorodnaya st., 37-3, apt. 26 Gavrilov Ilya Vladimirovich, tel. +7-928-829-10-41, djilisutours@rambler.ru 357600, Stavropol Territory, Essentuki, Ordzhonikidze st., 84-3, apt. 43 Mashin Roman Ivanovich, tel. +7-928-285-57-46, romashin79@mail.ru 357700, Stavropol Territory, Kislovodsk, Olkhovskaya st., 14, apt. 1 Ovcharenko Danila Sergeevich, tel. +7-928-008-03-01, ovcharenko911@mail.ru

32. Western summit of Elbrus via the Western shoulder (route category 2B, fig. 8–10). From the village of Terskol, ascend first along the road, then along the trail on the right side of the Azausue valley and, after 4 hours, reach the initial bivouac at the Old Panoramic Viewpoint (Stary Krogzor) located on the southernmost (southeastern) spur of the Elbrus massif. From the Panoramic Viewpoint (departure at 2–3 am) turn left and via the moraine, and then along the Maly Azau glacier, reach the snowy plateau. Across the plateau (covered crevices!), then along a small, gently sloping snowy slope, reach the rocky ridge to the right (north) of the Khotiu-Tau pass and the Nameless avalanche glacier descending into the Ullukam valley. From the Old Panoramic Viewpoint, 4–4.5 hours. Here, turn right and along the simple rocks of the ridge, reach the rocky ridge descending into the Ullukam valley, along the right bank of the avalanche glacier. Traverse this ridge and along simple, in places moderately difficult, destroyed, snow-covered (cornices!) rocks of the ridge, ascending in the direction of the Western shoulder, reach the snowy ridge. Along the sharp (cornices!), then wide snowy ridge, ascend to the Western shoulder of the Elbrus massif. On a small snowy saddle to the right of the shoulder — bivouac. From the Khotiu-Tau pass, 3–5 hours. From the saddle, ascend northeast along the snowy fields with gradually increasing steepness, traverse left to avoid the Western summit of Elbrus and reach below the northwestern rocky ridge of the Western summit. From here, along the simple rocks of the ridge or along the snow beside the rocks — a steep ascent to the Western summit of the Elbrus massif. From the shoulder, 5–6 hours.