Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Tepli region, classification section number 2.8.
2. Pakota North (3505 m) – from the North.
3. Proposed 1B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Route height difference — 350 m (from point R0). Total route length — about 500 m. Length of sections with 4 category of difficulty — 10 m. Average steepness:

• key sections — 70°
• entire route — 30°

6. Hooks left on the route — none.

Report

On the ascent of the MAI Climbing Club team

to Lenin Peak (7134 m) via the Southwest Ridge of the West Crest (first ascent) from August 31 to September 2, 2012 Captain: A. Lebedev, Coach: A. Lebedev Ascent to Lenin Peak (7134 m) via the Southwest Ridge of the West Crest (first ascent)

Passport

1. Region: Trans-Alay Range (Pamir) Valley: Malaya Saukdara, category according to the 2011 classifier — 4.4
2. Name of the peak: Lenin Peak (7134 m)

Report

On ascending Lenin Peak via the Southwest Ridge from the Malaia Sauk-Dara valley. First ascent - approximately Category 5B difficulty. Climbing category — high-altitude. Team leader: Yushin N.P. Coach: Honored Master of Sports Kuzmin K.K. Moscow, 1969 www.alpfederation.ru www.alpfederation.ru

Report

On the first ascent of v. Novgorodskogo Yu. (3462 m) via the Western ridge. Approximately 1B rock. Completed by the mountaineers of the Mountain Club SKGMI "Krokus" from Vladikavkaz on May 23, 2009. Under the leadership of Levkovsky Yuri Vasilyevich.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent type: rock
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Tsadzhitudon river valley, 2.8
3. Peak, route: Novgorodskogo Yu. (3462 m), Western ridge
4. Expected category of difficulty: 1B rock, first ascent
5. Route characteristics:

¹

2. Steep snowy slope. Descent with alternating belay
3. Snow ridge. Cornices possible from the north.
4. Easy destroyed rocks. CHATYN-TAU — Category 3A. Height 4368 m. The summit of Chatyn-Tau is located in the Uzhba group area and is directly adjacent to the Uzhba Plateau. To the north of the summit is the peak Shchurovskogo, to the east is the Dolla-Kora ridge, and to the southwest are the summits:

• Malaya Uzhba
• Severная Uzhba (North Uzhba)

Ascent Record

1. Central Caucasus, Adyl-Su gorge, section 2.4 according to CMGA.
2. Bashkara peak, 4241 m, via the North Face.
3. Claimed 6A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Nature of the route — combined.
5. Elevation gain of the route 540 m. Route length 926 m. Length of sections:

• 5th category of difficulty — 345 m;
• 6th category of difficulty — 51 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 70°, entire route — 55°.

6. Pitons left on the route: total 0

LENIN PEAK (7134 m) FROM THE NORTH VIA THE SPUR FROM LIPKINA PEAK. Moscow – 1967

II. Preparation and Organization of the Ascent

In the autumn of 1966, the Moscow City Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports Association decided to conduct a complex high-altitude expedition to the Pamir using collective travel vouchers. A coaching council was formed, consisting of Honored Master of Sports Ovchinnikov A.G., Master of Sports Bozhukov, and Honored Coach of the RSFSR Radel V.A. The head of the organizational committee was Master of Sports Galkin V.T., under whose leadership the preparations for the expedition were carried out. Training sessions were conducted according to a plan developed by the coaching council, three times a week, at the sports complexes:

• Bauman Moscow State Technical University (MSTU)
• Moscow State University (MSU)
• Tsaritsyno
• Khimki.

3A+1

First ascent on p. "Metallurgov Urala" (5150 m) via the left eastern counterforce. Peak "Metallurgov Urala" is located in the western part of the Trans-Alay Range in a spur extending towards Peak Sverdlova between the peaks:

• to the south - Avyk-Too (5285 m)
• to the north - p. N. I. Kuznetsova (5300 m). The ascent was made from an intermediate base camp (3800 m), located on an old moraine covered with grass, near a small lake, in the upper reaches of the Kok-Kyik gorge. The path from the base camp at 3800 m goes along the left (orographically) bank of the r. Kok-Kyik, along a grassy slope. After 40–50 minutes of walking, the path reaches the scree, and you need to turn right, bypassing the spurs of p. Kuznetsova. After an hour and a half to two hours of walking, you need to cross a ridge coming from the summit (5150) of p. Metallurgov Urala. It takes 20–30 minutes to overcome the ridge. Behind the ridge, a flat black lateral moraine begins (orographically left of l. Kok-Kyik), along which, after 1.5 hours, you reach the beginning of the route. Here is the first overnight stay on the moraine at an altitude of 4500 m. The travel time from the intermediate base camp (3800 m) to 4500 m is 3–4 hours. The travel time from the first overnight stay to the beginning of the route is 30–40 minutes along the Kok-Kyik glacier. The exit to the left counterforce is via rocks of medium difficulty. Further advancement is possible only along the counterforce; after 3–4 ropes, an 8–10 m wall at an angle of 70–80° is encountered, requiring careful piton protection.

Description

First ascent to the summit 5150 m (peak Metallurgov Urala) via the central eastern buttress Peak Metallurgov Urala is located in the western part of the Trans-Alai range in a spur running towards Peak Sverdlova, between the summits:

• Akk-Too (to the south)
• p. Nikolaya Kuznetsova (to the north) The ascent was made from the intermediate base camp at 3800 m of the Sverdlovsk jubilee expedition. The intermediate camp "3800" is situated on an old moraine, covered with grass, near a small lake in the upper reaches of the Kок-kьшк valley. The path from the base camp "3800" goes along the left (orographic) bank of the Kоккьшк river across

Ascent Logbook

1. Ascent Category: High-altitude technical
2. Ascent Area: Pamir, Zaalaysky Range
3. Ascent Route with Summit Elevations: Kyzyl-Ogyn 6679 m via the eastern wall
4. Ascent Characteristics:
   • Elevation gain: 6679 m – 4600 m = 2080 m
   • Average slope of the Eastern wall: 55°
   • Average slope of the entire route (across the plateau): 40°
   • Length of complex sections during ascent: 2285 m
5. Pitons Used: