Appendix No. 1 to the Unified Requirements for Classification Report Report Form for Routes of 1B–3B Category of Difficulty

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT KEZGEN VIA ROUTE 2A CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY BY THE TEAM OF MAC "Freeline" Pyatigorsk 11.06.2021

I. Ascent Passport

151. Shaurtu Glavnaya via the Southwest Ridge

(combined route by D. Sukhodolsky, category III, Figures 14, 16, 17) The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp (group of 4-12 people) or from the "Chegem" tourist base to the initial bivouac on the saddle of the Salynan pass is described in route 154. At the pass, turn right (when ascending from Bezengi) and exit onto the Southwest Ridge of Shaurtu Glavnaya. From here, there is a small descent to the right and a traverse of the first pinnacle along the ledges. Beyond it, ascend steep 15-20-meter rocks of moderate difficulty (pitched climbing) up to the saddle of the Southwest Ridge. From the saddle, ascend along the simple, heavily destroyed Southwest Ridge with numerous low pinnacles or along the ledges on its right side (belaying). Then, bypassing a large square rock on the right along a steep snow-ice slope (belaying), move to the left side of the Southwest Ridge. Further, bypassing numerous pinnacles (mainly on the left) along the snow-ice slope (belaying), ascend along the long, rugged Southwest Ridge to the summit of Shaurtu Glavnaya. From the saddle of the Salynan pass - 6-8 hours.

ASCENT TO SHAURTU PEAK FROM THE SOUTH VIA THE COULISSE

The Shaurtu peak is located in the Kargashilsky ridge, which separates the Chegem and Cherek-Bezengi valleys. The height of the peak is 4303 m. The route to Shaurtu peak from the south was classified in 1959 as a 2B category of difficulty. The route is combined. Route Description Day 1. From the "Bezengi" alpine camp, the path goes along the right-bank (orographically) moraine of the Bezengi glacier to Missees-Kosh. Then you need to descend along the trail to the glacier and move up the glacier, gradually crossing it, to reach the stream flowing from the glacier's cirque, opposite Missees-Kosh. The second stream flows from the cirque of the Salynan glacier. From the Bezengi glacier, you need to ascend to the left (orographically) moraine to the right of the stream. Further, the path goes along the stream, to the "ram's foreheads," here you should cross the stream and move up the left (in the direction of travel) side of the stream. To the first "ram's foreheads," you should again cross to the right (in the direction of travel) side of the stream and ascend first through the grass, and then through the talus in the direction of the glacier's tongue. At the point where the glacier flattens, there is a convenient camping spot. The journey from the camp takes 4-5 hours. Day 2.

Description of the ascent route to Jorashy-Kurshagan (South) 4286 m — 3A category of difficulty.

From the "Bezengi" alpine camp, the path goes along the Bezengi glacier to a sharp drop in the high right-bank (along the route) moraine. Climb up (to its lowering) along the talus of the couloir, and then up to the right along the Grassy inclined ledge (1–1.5 hours) to the ridge, from which a stream flowing from the Jorashy cirque is visible. Along the ridge, then along the rocks and talus on the right (along the route) side of the stream — exit to the Jorashy cirque. The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp to the exit to the cirque takes 4–5 hours. In the central part of the cirque, a narrow winding couloir is clearly visible, which leads to the Jorashy pass. In the upper part of the couloir, on the right, there is a large plug-slab, overcoming which with insurance through the ledges — exit to the pass (2 hours from the cirque). Overnight stay at the pass. (The path from the pass goes straight along the ridge!) in the direction of the summit. The sequence of passing the sections of the route:

• The first gendarme is passed head-on.
• The second one with an overhanging cornice is bypassed on the right, with an exit to the ridge behind the top of the gendarme.
• The key section of the route is a 30-meter-high wall, which is passed on the right side of the ridge.
• Further along the rocks of medium difficulty to the third gendarme, which is overcome on the left along the route (2 ropes) with an exit to its top in the upper part.
• Another rope along the ridge leads to a site under the next gendarme.

149. Shaurtu Glavnaya via the Northeast Ridge (combined route, category 2A difficulty, Fig. 14, 16, 17).

From the "Chegem" tourist base (group of 4-12 people), ascend via a forest trail on the left bank of the Shaurtu River, then, after crossing the Tyutyurgu stream, continue up grassy slopes in a wide hollow between a large right-bank (orographic) moraine of the Shaurtu Glacier on the right and slopes of the western spurs of the Kargashilsky Ridge on the left. Then proceed along the moraine to the upper areas at the end of the moraine. From the "Chegem" tourist base, it takes 3-4 hours. From the moraine, enter the glacier and move along the northeastern branch of the Shaurtu Glacier (closed crevasses) towards a rocky outcrop, which you bypass on the left. Behind the outcrop, turn right, cross the heavily crevassed northeastern branch, and then reach the moraine at the foot of the western ridge of Shaurtu Glavnaya peak. Set up a base camp on the moraine. From the "Chegem" tourist base, it takes 5-6 hours. From the moraine, on the right side of the northeastern branch of the Shaurtu Glacier (closed crevasses), approach the saddle of the Shaurtu massif, located between the Glavnaya and Severny peaks. From the glacier, pass over the bergschrund via a snow bridge and ascend 200-250 meters up an icy-snowy slope (avalanche risk, belay required) to the saddle of the Shaurtu massif. On the saddle, turn right and ascend the snowy northeast ridge (cornices) to the first pillar. Overcome the pillar via easy ridge rocks. Then, along the snowy, sometimes sharp (cornices) 300-400-meter northeast ridge (cornices, belay required) and easy snowy rocks, reach the summit of Shaurtu Glavnaya. From the base camp, it takes 5-6 hours.

I. Climbing category.

Rock climbing. 2. Climbing area, ridge. Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range. 3. Peak, its height, climbing route. Tsanner peak, 4000 m, via the N counterfort of the W ridge. 4. Proposed difficulty category. 4A category. 5. Route characteristics:

• Height difference: 1500 m.

"Main Dzhangitau via the North-East buttress — category 5A" (Schwarzgruber, A. Larin, Peringer, Taper — 23 July 1935; N. Chekmarev and G. Skornyakov — 23 August 1936; Fig. 39). From Bezengi alpine camp, follow the trail along the left-bank moraine of the Bezengi gorge up to the Missekosha hut. From the hut, on the south side of the meadow, follow the trail down, across the meadow with graves of climbers who perished in the Bezengi area, and descend to the Bezengi Glacier. Traverse the glacier, keeping to its left side, up and past minor icefalls and crevasses near the left bank, and then up the center-right of the glacier to its fork into left (East) and right (North-West) branches. Under the icefall of the East branch, turn left under the talus and grassy ascent of the left-bank moraine. Follow the trail right of the stream that flows from the trough between the moraine and the slopes of Pik Semenovsky down to the main Bezengi Glacier, and ascend to the moraine. Camp on the moraine. From Bezengi alpine camp — 3–4 hours. From the camp (with crampons!) traverse the glacier to the right side of the base of the North-East buttress of Main Dzhangitau. From the glacier, ascend the avalanche debris (avalanches!) between two rocky outcrops, through a bergschrund and along a gully, and then up a snowy slope to beneath the main rocky ascent of the North-East buttress. Bypass it via a snowy ascent on the right (avalanches! rockfall! icefall!) and exit onto an ice ledge (pitons!). From initial camp — 3–4 hours. From here:

• left and up rocky terrain of medium difficulty and an ice-snow slope (pitons!) — ascent onto the North-East buttress;
• from there, right and 80–100 m up simple and medium-difficulty rocks of the buttress (“live” rocks! pitons!), small slabs are bypassed via snow-ice slopes on the right;
• then, up a snowy slope — ascent onto a horizontal snowy ridge;

North Elbrus Region

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE ALPINISM ROUTE TO PEAK 3060 (Korona Z.) TASHLYSYRT RIDGE September 20, 2020 V. TRETYAKOV YESSENTUKI APRIL 2021 Peak 3060 (Korona Z.) Route: via the western ridge Complexity category: 1B category (rocky) Leader: V. Tretyakov Location:

• Central Caucasus
• North Elbrus Region

For the championship of the Central Council of the Spartak Voluntary Sports Society in the category of technically complex ascents.

DALAR PEAK

via the western wall

Team of the Spartak CS DSS Alpine Camp "Uzunkol"

The first ascent of the Western and Eastern peaks and the traverse of the Uralochka massif was made from July 14 to 18, 1961, by a group consisting of:

1. Ryazanov V.V. - group leader, Master of Sports.
2. Ryabukhin A.G. - 1st sports category.
3. Samokhvalov V.V. - 1st sports category.
4. Benkin V. - 1st sports category.
5. Chernov V.I. - 1st sports category. The Uralochka peak is located in the ridge separating the Ullu-Auz and M. Ukyu cirques, between the Archimedes (4100 m) and Dumala-Tau (4557 m) peaks. The elevation above the M. Ukyu glacier is 700 m, and above the Ullu-Auz glacier is 800 m. The Uralochka peak is a double-headed peak: the Western peak (4270 m) is connected by a 200-meter saddle to the Eastern peak (4300 m). To the north (into the M. Ukyu cirque) from the Western peak, there are tile-like slabs covered with ice and snow; to the south (into the Ullu-Auz cirque), there are walls. The rocks forming the massif are granites with a high quartz content. The cracks are shallow and worn out. The surface of the rocks is rough and pockmarked, resembling the surface of syenites.