Description of the ascent route to Jorashy-Kurshagan (South) 4286 m — 3A category of difficulty.

From the "Bezengi" alpine camp, the path goes along the Bezengi glacier to a sharp drop in the high right-bank (along the route) moraine. Climb up (to its lowering) along the talus of the couloir, and then up to the right along the Grassy inclined ledge (1–1.5 hours) to the ridge, from which a stream flowing from the Jorashy cirque is visible. Along the ridge, then along the rocks and talus on the right (along the route) side of the stream — exit to img-0.jpeg

the Jorashy cirque. The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp to the exit to the cirque takes 4–5 hours. In the central part of the cirque, a narrow winding couloir is clearly visible, which leads to the Jorashy pass. In the upper part of the couloir, on the right, there is a large plug-slab, overcoming which with insurance through the ledges — exit to the pass (2 hours from the cirque). Overnight stay at the pass. (The path from the pass goes straight along the ridge!) in the direction of the summit.

The sequence of passing the sections of the route:

  • The first gendarme is passed head-on.
  • The second one with an overhanging cornice is bypassed on the right, with an exit to the ridge behind the top of the gendarme.
  • The key section of the route is a 30-meter-high wall, which is passed on the right side of the ridge.
  • Further along the rocks of medium difficulty to the third gendarme, which is overcome on the left along the route (2 ropes) with an exit to its top in the upper part.
  • Another rope along the ridge leads to a site under the next gendarme.
  • This "gendarme" is also overcome on the right with an exit to its top.
  • Then along the ridge to the base of the inclined wall of the next gendarme, which is passed along the right part (2 ropes), with an exit to the south summit of Jorashy-Kurshagan.

The path from the pass to the summit takes 5–6 hours.

Attached files

Sources

Comments

Sign in to leave a comment