REPORT

on the ascent to Mt. Ullarg via the Northwest Buttress by a group of climbers MOS DSO "Trud"

§ 1. Geographical description of the area and sporting characteristics of the region

The summit of Ullarg (4320 m) is located in a lateral spur of the main Caucasian ridge, beyond the peaks of Uilpata and Songuti-khokh. The peaks of Arcihevskogo and Oni-Ani follow after Ullarg. The Ullarg region is still poorly explored from the north. It is far from active camps, and there are no convenient approaches. The only relatively easy access is from the northeast, from the villages of Dunta and Komunta, along the Songuti-don river. The path from the villages of Dunta and Komunta is long and difficult to traverse. ¹

5. V. ULARG VIA NORTH-WEST COUNTERFORCE, 5A cat. diff.

ONIANI PEAK WEST RIDGE ARTSYSHHEVSKOGO PEAK ULARG NORTH EDGE II Ridge I Ridge NORTH-WEST COUNTERFORCE

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class
2. Ascent area — technical. Central part of the mountain range, between the peak to the Southwest and the saddle to the East.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Ularg, 4320 m, via the bastions of the North face.
4. Expected difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 1100 m, length — 1212 m, average steepness — 68°. Length of sections: 2 — 70 m, 3 — 25 m, 4 — 460 m, 5 — 430 m, 6 — 227 m.
6. Pitons hammered in: for belaying
   • rock — 104

148

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Ullarg (4320 m) via the North face, accomplished by the team from the "Tsey" alpine camp from August 4 to 9, 1968 USSR Alpine Championship 1968. Technical ascents category Moscow, 1968 Fig. 1. The North face of Ullarg summit. (Taken from the upper reaches of Songuti glacier on August 5, 1968)

Team Composition

Captain:

Ukrainian Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports and Recreation Society Mt. UlarG, 4320 m, via the bastions of the North Face Team Composition:

• 1. Bodnik V.N.
• 2. Bychek A.M.
• 3. Barsukov V.A.
• 4. Bozhko I.V.
• 5. Derkach A.A.
• 6. Kharianyk I.V. 1980

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing type — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area: Caucasus, Rocky Range.
3. Peak 3280 m (Kionsky massif), via the Eastern ridge.
4. Estimated complexity category, 1B — first ascent.
5. Height difference: 250 m, total route length — 600 m, average slope of the route 25°.
6. Pitons left on the route — no. Use of previously driven pitons — no.
7. Number of walking hours/days: 4 hours / 1 day.
8. Overnights: no.

Ascent Certificate

1. Ascent category — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Rocky Ridge.
3. Peak 3280 m (Kionsky massif), via the Western ridge.
4. Estimated category of complexity 2A — first ascent.
5. Height difference: 600 m. Total route length — 1200 m. Average steepness of the route 30°.
6. Pitons left on the route — none. Use of previously driven pitons — none.
7. Number of travel hours/days: 6 h/1.
8. Overnight stays: none.

Ascent Passport.

1. Caucasus. Rocky Ridge. Kionsky massif. Section number in Classification 2.7.
2. Urs­hoch Zap. (3229 m) — from the South, along the Western ridge.
3. Proposed 2B cat. diff., first ascent.
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Route height difference — 450 m (by GPS). Total route length — about 1200 m. Length of sections with 3–4 cat. diff. — 50 m. Steepness of key sections — up to 70°. Average route steepness — 30°.
6. Hooks left on the route — none.
7. Walking hours — 6; days — 1.

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus. Rocky Ridge. Kionsky Massif. Classification section number 2.7.
2. Urskhok West (3229 m) – Urskhok Central (3290 m) – via the Western ridge, traverse.
3. Proposed 3A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock climbing.
5. Route elevation gain — 510 m (by GPS). Total route length — about 2000 m. Length of sections with 3–4 category of difficulty — 80 m. Steepness of key sections — up to 70°. Average steepness of the route — 30°.

76. Aylama via the West Ridge (combined route, I. Marra, category 4B difficulty, fig. 5, 15, 17). From the upper plateau of Koruldashi Glacier (m. 72), approach the wide snowy southern slope of the saddle between Aylama Malaya peak and the Big Sharp Gendarme of Aylama's West Ridge. From the plateau, cross the bergschrund on the left side of the steep wide snowy slope, 400–500 m up, to the right of the rocks of the East Ridge of Aylama Malaya peak. Having overcome the second bergschrund or bypassed it on the left via the rocks, 600–700 m up and to the right, towards the couloir on the left side of the Big Gendarme. Follow the winding couloir, known as the "Zmeika" (Snake) couloir, 150–200 m up, to