Ascent Record

1. Technical category
2. Pamir-Alay, Kara-Su gorge
3. Peak 4437 m (Atabekova) via North Ridge, category 3A difficulty
4. Height difference 210 m from the gendarme, distance 300 m from the gendarme, average steepness 45°, average steepness of the key section 60°
5. Moving time 5–6 hours
6. No overnight stops on the route
7. Pitons driven - 6
8. Leader: Pyshkin A. V. - 1st sports category Participants:

Brief Description of the Approach to the Route

From the base camp, descend to the confluence of the Ak-su and Kara-su rivers and cross two bridges to a large meadow. It takes 1 hour from the base camp. Then, proceed up the right gorge along the scree slopes of the Northeast ridge. Exit through a steep scree couloir to the saddle of the Northeast ridge under the base of the Northeast wall. Here, a tent can be set up on a scree shelf. It takes 3 hours from the base camp. Map of the area. Route diagram. In UIAA symbols on p. Atabekova (4437) via N.E. wall 4A cat. diff. (landmark).

1. Rock class.
2. Pamir-Alay, Akh-Su gorge.
3. Peak 3900 m via North-West edge.
4. Second ascent of category 3A difficulty, approximately.
5. Height difference 400 m, average steepness 40°, length 790 m.
6. Pitons driven — 8 pcs.
7. Climbing hours — 5.
8. No overnight stays on the route.
9. Leader: Sytnyk D. N. — 1st sports category. Participants: Glushchenko A. A. — 1st sports category,

1. Climbing category — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range.
3. Peak 3900 (Domashnyaya).
4. Estimated difficulty — 5A rock climbing.
5. Height difference: total — 650 m; wall section — 440 m. Length of wall section — 500 m. Average steepness of wall section — 70°.

Ascent Passport

I. Technical category. 2. Pamir-Alai, Ak-Su valley. 3. Peak Dostoevskogo 4974 m via the western ridge. 4. The route is combined, first ascent, category 4B complexity approximately. 5. Height difference: 1080 m Average steepness — 33°. Route length — 2270 m 5. Rock pitons hammered — 27 pcs. ice screws — 4 pcs. Used chocks — 9 pcs.

I. Technical class 2. Pamir-Alay, Ak-su valley 3. Peak Dostoyevsky (4974 m) via the East ridge, combined 4. Proposed category 4B, first ascent 5. Height difference 570 m, length 1320 m. Length of sections category 4 — 280 m, category 5 — 40 m. Average slope of the route 27°, average slope of the couloir 30°, average slope of the ridge 20°, slope of the summit tower wall 60° 6. Pitons driven: rock 40, chockstones 30 7. Climbing hours — 19, days — 2 8. Overnight stay: 1st on a site prepared on a snowy ridge 9. Leader: Viktor Pruss, 1st sports category. Participants: Serafim Vasiliev, 1st sports category. Valentin Litskevich, 1st sports category. Izolda Shaginyan, Master of Sports of the USSR 10. Coach: Yuri Kozlov, Master of Sports of the USSR

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing region, range — Pamiro-Alay, Turkestan.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak 4974 (F. Dostoevsky), via the right counterfort of the SW wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5A, combined.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 620 m length of 5–6 sections — 130 m, average steepness — 45°
6. Pitons used: for belaying — 60 (rock) for creating artificial holds — 8

Russian Mountaineering Championship, High-Altitude Class

Report on the Ascent of Peak Iskander via the South Face

Team from Moscow

Route Description by Sections

R0–R1. Start moving left and below the summit scree along the wall, then along the corner. Reach the flattening. 45 m IV R1–R2. Move along the gentle rocks under the overhang. It provides protection from falling rocks. 40 m III R2–R3. Move right towards the stream (rocks are falling along the stream). Left of the stream, climb the wall to reach the gentle rocks. 45 m IV R3–R4. Approach the wall. Climb through the crack using artificial aids (IT) with underclimbs. 20 m II, 20 m VIA1 R4–R5. Climb right through the crack, followed by a difficult traverse (10 m). Reach the gentle, smooth rocks left of the stream and climb up. Set up a station at the exit to simple rocks. 15 m VIA2–A3, 35 m IV R5–R6. Climb up, then through the corner, to reach the gentle rocks. Continue climbing up. 15 m IV, 30 m II R6–R7. Climb right and up to the scree, then along the scree right and up to the rocky ridge. 100 m I R7–R8. Climb along the ridge left and up to the base of the gentle, smooth slab. 80 m I–III R8–R9. Climb the slab left and up, then straight up. Reach the internal corner. 40 m V+ A1

ASCENT REPORT

(second passage of the route)

1. Climbing category: technical.
2. Pamir-Alai, Ak-Su valley.
3. Maly Iskander peak (4520 m) via the North-East face
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B, rock
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 435 m length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 30 m