PASSPORT

1. Rock class
2. Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass
3. Peak Dombay (Main) via north-eastern wall
4. Categorized route 5B category of difficulty
5. Height difference: 787 m Length — 1100 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 345 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 62°, including 5 category of difficulty — 78°.
6. Pitons hammered: — 126 | rock | bolt | chockstones | ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-: |

Fig. 58

3. Ascent to the Perednyaya Chotcha peak via the northwestern ridge — category 4B difficulty (Fig. 58)

From the Northern refuge along a log over the Khokel river and along the trail alongside the Chotcha river to the foot of the northwestern ridge — bivouac. From the Northern refuge 1–2 hours. From the bivouac along the slope and grassy ledges left-upwards under the first overhanging spur on the ridge. Bypass the spur from the left (protection through the spurs!), then right-upwards onto the ridge to a loose couloir (rockfall danger!) and along it under the 100-meter wall of the first ascent. Along the wall of the ascent:

• right — upwards 35–40 m,
• then left — upwards,
• exit onto grassy ledges (protection through the spurs, partially bolted!). Further:

Fig. 13 Fig. 14

4. Ascent to the Ertzog peak via the eastern ridge — category 4A difficulty (see Fig. 13 and 14)

From Dombayskaya Polyana along the trail to Turiy Lake, then:

• up the moraine,
• then along the Alibek glacier (the glacier is broken, thorough belay!),
• to the left of two rocky outcrops along a steep snowy ascent to the Ertzog saddle. Bivouac location.

Report on the second ascent by the team from the multifaceted mountaineering club "Freeline" in Essentuki

To the summit of Zub Sofruju

via the direttissima of the western wall, 6A category of difficulty Leader: Popov Mikhail Lvovich Coach: Motienko Nikolai Ilyich Essentuki 2020 Addresses: 357600, Stavropol Krai, Essentuki, Oktyabrskaya St., 434, apt. 59 Popov M.L. 89282657130

For the championship of the Central Council of the Spartak Voluntary Sports Society in the category of technically complex ascents.

DALAR PEAK

via the western wall

Team of the Spartak CS DSS Alpine Camp "Uzunkol"

St. Petersburg Alpine Climbing Championship 2020 (high-altitude technical class) Report on the ascent to Dalar peak (3979 m) via the north buttress of the north shoulder (Tramontana), category 5A. The route was completed by the team of the Alpine Federation of St. Petersburg. St. Petersburg 2020

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus, from Nakhar Pass to Chiperezaou Pass. Section No. 2.3 of the classifier of routes to mountain peaks.
2. Dalar peak (3979 m), via the north buttress of the north shoulder (Tramontana).
3. Category of complexity — 5A.

EAAC Championship in the Rock Category

Report

On the ascent of Dalar peak via the center of the NE wall of the East shoulder (first ascent) by the Combined team of Moscow region 2010

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge, section according to KMGV-2.3.
2. Dalar peak (3988 m) via the center of the NE wall of the East shoulder.
3. Proposed first ascent of 5B category.
4. Route type — rock climbing.

Ascent Certificate

1. Type of ascent — rock climbing.
2. Region — Western Caucasus, Gvandra region.
3. Peak DALAR, 3979 m, via the north-eastern wall of the bastion.
4. Category of difficulty — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference: total — 1200 m, bastion — 780 m, length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 850 m, average steepness of the bastion — 76° (2780–3560 m), sections with 6 category difficulty — 85° (3010–3050 m).
6. Pitons hammered: | Type | Rock | Bolt | Chock | Ice | | :--------------- | :--- | :--- | :---- | :--- |

Ascent Passport

1. Technical class
2. Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge
3. Dalar via the center of the bastion (Ivaschenko route 1982)
4. Proposed category: 6A
5. Height difference: 939 m, of which 520 m is wall climbing; total route length is 1310 m, of which 550 m is wall climbing Section lengths:

• Category 5 – 250 m
• Category 6 – 210 m

6. Average steepness of the wall section — 71°

2012 Ukraine Championship

Rock Class Classification Commissions:

• FALS of Ukraine
• FAR

Report

on the first ascent of the route to v. Dalar (3979 m) along the center of the north-eastern wall of the bastion (proposed 6A cat. diff.), made by the team of the Poltava Regional Federation of Mountaineering and Rock Climbing Leader: Pugachev S.A., MS, instructor-methodologist II category. Coach: Zagirnyak M.V., Honored Trainer of Ukraine, MS

2012