Svobodnaya Koreya via North Face

S. Semiletkin, 1988, cat. 6B Tian Shan — Kyrgyzsky Ridge 7.4.144.

Passport

1. Class: winter
2. Tian Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge
3. Peak Svobodnaya Koreya, via North face, 4740 m. 4th ascent
4. Route cat. 6B (S. Semiletkin, 1988, 3rd passage)
5. Height difference: 890 m, length — 1160 m.

I. Technical Class

2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Range
3. Pik Svobodnaya Korea, 4777 m, via North Face (Semiletkin's route)
4. Difficulty category 6B
5. Elevation gain 677 m, length 1060 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 67°, including 6B category difficulty at 85° (4320 m – 4570 m)
6. Pitons used: rock 142/74, bolted pitons 104/40, ice screws 44/2
7. Climbing hours 48, days 7 (including preparation)
8. Overnight stays: five nights in a tent on a platform
9. Team leader: Balyezin Valery Viktorovich, International Master of Sports Team members:

MINISTRY OF SPORT TOURISM AND YOUTH POLICY OF KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY SPORTS FEDERATION OF ALPINISM

Championship of Russia

2013 year Class of altitude-technical ascents

Report

Combined team of Krasnoyarsk Territory Peak Svobodnoy Korei 4777 m via north wall Semiletkin's route 1988 6A cat. dif., winter ascent Krasnoyarsk 2013

Passport of the ascent

1. Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz ridge, 7.4.

Ascent Passport

Climb Class Climb Region Peak, its height Ascent Route Difficulty Category (approximate) Height Difference Average Steepness Driven Kryachev's:

• rock
• ice
• bolt anchors Laid закладок Number of walking hours Number of overnight stays

Participants:

1. Nagovitsina Elena Yulyevna
2. Zueva Tamara Aleksandrovna

Ii a c ii o p t

I. Season­ — winter 2. Tien-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge 3. Semenov-Tian-Shansky Peak (4875 m) via right side of West Face, combined route 4. Category­ — 5B 5. Height difference: 175 m, length­ — 1600 m Length of sections with 5­–6 cat. diff.­ — 600 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route­ — 65° (3700­–4300) 6. Pitons hammered in:

4875 m

p. Korona (3rd) 4700 m

Report

Of the joint team

of Tomsk, Kemerovo regions and St. Petersburg on the ascent to p. Korona (3rd) 4700 m via the western glacier "3B", (sl)

Participants:

Temerev I.M., Suzdaltsev E.E., Kashevnil A.A.

I. Ascent Details

Passport

1. Ice and snow ascents class
2. Central Tien Shan, South Inylchek Glacier
3. Peak Auezov, 5967 m, via the center of the North-East face
4. Proposed - 6A category of complexity, first ascent
5. Wall height difference: 1200 m, route - 1367 m; wall length - 1370 m; route length - 1640 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of complexity - 790 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 58° (4600-5800), including 6 category of complexity sections: 80° (4750-4800); 70° (4848-4860); 70° (4888-4901); 80° (4920-4931); 70° (5364-5680); 70° (5680-5742); 70° (5758-5800)
6. Use of previously driven pitons - no
7. Team's working hours: 22.5 (20 hours on the wall) and days - 2
8. Overnight stays: 1st in a natural ice-snow cave - 6 people.
9. Team leader: Viktor Vasilyevich Zhuravlev, Master of Sports of the USSR

Moscow Alpine Championship 2015

High-Altitude Technical Class Report on the ascent of the Moscow Alpine and Rock Climbing Federation team to the peak Granitsa (5370 m), first ascent, approximately 5A category.

1. Climbing class: high-altitude technical
2. Climbing area: Tian Shan, Western Kokshaal-Too
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Granitsa (5370 m) via the ice stream, left of the large couloir.
4. Difficulty category: 5A (first ascent)

I. Category of ascent: HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL 2. Area of ascent: KOK-SHAAL-TAU RANGE, DJUREK TRACT 3. Route of ascent with indication of peaks and their heights: NORTH-WEST WALL, TENDING TO THE NORTH (azimuth 340°) p. DANKOV, 5982 m 4. Characteristics of ascent: HEIGHT DIFFERENCE 2000 m AVERAGE STEEPNESS 70° — 540 m, LENGTH OF DIFFICULT SECTIONS 54 5. Number of pitons hammered: ROCK — 190 pcs., ICE — 35 pcs., BOLTED — 9 pcs. 6. Number of travel hours: 91 Number of hours spent on preliminary processing: 29.5 hours