Passport

I. Altai Katunsky ridge. Akkem gorge. 2. Mt. Boris, NE slope, height 3375 m. 3. Proposed 3A–3B cat. dif. (first ascent). 4. Elevation gain 550 m, length 1000 m. 5. Average steepness of the key section of the route 45–50°. 6. Climbing hours (from the base camp on Akkem lake and back) 15 h. 7. Used pitons: ice screws — 8 8. Leader: Drakin A.V. CMS Participants:

Gro­ma 25 cm. 2 mi­be­re:

• 800
• 1000
• 30
• 300
• 4000

10. 1000 res­se­mo­tseo, K. Akt­au­e 11, 12. 1125, 1125, 112. 112.85 r. Section R0–R1. Straight ridge 150 m. 40°. Section R1–R2. Ridge 300 m · 20°. Section R2–R3. 1st gendarme — key section. Two walls, through cracks and rocks 7–8 m., 80°. Total length of the section is 100 m., steepness 45°. 5 m. descent by

ALPINIADA

Of Tomsk Regional Council of the Student Sports Union "Burevestnik"

Mountainous Altai Ak-kem valley July 10-20, 1963 First ascent of Pik Gidrometслужбы Braня

Route Description

First Ascent of Pik Gidrometслужбы

(Category 2A difficulty)

5р. 529, № 9 22/XI–83 55 п/м Петрашко

Brief Overview of the Climbing Area

I. Climbing Object

The peak XX let Oktyabrya is located next to the Belukha massif and to the right closes the so-called Akkemskaya wall. To the northeast of the peak stand out pronounced pre-summit gendarmes, one of which is reached by the route taken by the team. Further to the northeast, the ridge leads to the peaks:

• Urusvati,
• Yu. Rerikh,
• N. Rerikh. To the southwest of the peak is a snow-firn plateau adjacent to Western Belukha. The overall orientation of the peak massif is northeast-southwest. In June-August. The climate in the climbing area in June-August is mostly rainy. According to long-term observations, the most favorable weather for climbing is in March and September. Unfavorable climatic conditions, inaccessibility, and relatively low altitude of the area determine the low attendance of the area. Although it should be noted that the area is promising in terms of the presence of interesting "unclimbed" routes and peaks up to 4200 m high. The path to the described route starts from Barnaul, through Gorno-Altaisk, Ust-Koksa, which can be reached by plane on a local airline. From Ust-Koksa to Tyungur, there is a bus (84 km). From Tyungur to Akkem Lake, you can only get by pack transport on a mountain trail, having previously overcome a forested pass on a mountain taiga road. This 58 km path is traveled with pack transport in three days. The second option is a helicopter, but due to prolonged bad weather, it can be expected for 10 days. We crossed the pass to Akkem valley from Kucherlinskoe Lake by geologists' car to the "kosh". Then all the cargo was carried to Akkem Lake on foot for 5 hours (in 3 trips) as we were unable to obtain horses due to the field work in the kolkhoz. However, we got excellent acclimatization.

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PASSPORT

1. Rock class.
2. Region Altai, Katunsky ridge, Akkem gorge.
3. V. Tarasevich right cf. SE wall. 3500 m.
4. Proposed 5A cat. diff.
5. Height difference 550 m, length 780 m. Average steepness 50°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock 4, chocks 32.
7. Climbing hours (from bivouac on the stream flowing from the circus and to bivouac) 14 h.

v. Titova North Face

Passport

1. Snow and ice climb category.
2. Altai, Katunsky Ridge.
3. Supposed 3A category of complexity, first ascent.
4. Height difference 500 m, length 800 m.
5. Ice screws 8.
6. 9 hours of ascent from the camp below Boris Peak. Mokhova V.M. — 1st sports category

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Участok R0–R1. 200 m, 35° to the brow on the left to avoid crevasses. Deep snow. Участok R1–R2. Slope steepness increases to 45°, 150 m. Участok R2–R3. Steepness increases to 80°, 40 m. Protection using ice axes. Участok R3–R4. Labyrinth among seracs in deep snow, 200–300 m. Bridges! 7–10 m walls are encountered. Entering a hollow. Участok R4–R5. 300 m, gentle slope in the hollow. Entering under the northern slopes of Urusvati. Участok R5–R6: Bergschrund. Passing at the most convenient spot under an overhanging lower ice wall, 7 m, 90°. Участok R6–R7: 45°, 70 m, deep snow. Reaching the ridge. Участok R7–R8:

• 50 m along the ridge to the pre-summit ascent.
• The ridge abuts against the slope.

Peak Aktru, via the East ridge from Bolshoy Aktru glacier, cat. III

From the camp... From the moraine lake, move along the edge of the Bolshoy Aktru glacier along the slopes of Stazerov Peak. The glacier is heavily crevassed, so move in rope teams until the couloir between Stazerov Peak and the large gendarme on the East ridge of Aktru Peak. Climb the couloir through the ruined rocks on the left-hand side of the couloir and reach the lowest point of the East ridge (2–2.5 hours). Follow the easy ridge to the large gendarme (control cairn) and continue in the direction of the summit until the pre-summit rise. The snowy-icy rise is the key section of the route (time 2–2.5 hours). Before the snowy-icy rise, there is a gendarme with a 5-meter rock wall (set up belay). The snowy-icy ridge goes up like a sickle. Move along the left part of the ridge. In the lower part, there is snow on the ridge, which

в. АКТРУ, east wall, 4A cat. dif. (according to the report on the first ascent, Tsybkin L.P., July 1959) Approach from GMS Aktru through the Uчитель pass to the Kuрумду gorge. Crossing the Kuрумду icefall:

• Crossed from the right along the edge of the rocks в. Kuрумду in teams.
• Time to cross the icefall — 1 h. Overnight stay on the scree under the wall в. Актру. Time from GMS Aktru to the overnight stay — 7 h. The route to the summit goes along the rocky ridge, divided by snow and ice sections into five rocky islands. The height of the wall — 800 m.