v. Titova North Face

Passport

1. Snow and ice climb category.
2. Altai, Katunsky Ridge.
3. Supposed 3A category of complexity, first ascent.
4. Height difference 500 m, length 800 m.
5. Ice screws 8.
6. 9 hours of ascent from the camp below Boris Peak. Mokhova V.M. — 1st sports category Belyaev P.A. — 3rd sports category Vinnikov K.E. — 1st sports category Egorov L.M. — 3rd sports category Katonin V.V. — 2nd sports category
7. Coach Drakin A.V., Candidate Master of Sports, 1st category No. 3450.
8. Departure to the route and return on July 18, 1994.
9. The event was organized by the Altai Regional Sports Committee.

Approach Description

From the base camp located on Akkem Lake, move along the lake to the point where the Akkem River flows into the lake (40–50 min). The river is crossed by fording with safety precautions. After crossing, move along the trail to the Akkem Glacier (the trail is often lost on the large talus). Ascend to the glacier tongue from the left along the lateral moraine. Then proceed along the glacier tongue alongside the slopes of Boris Peak towards the start of the SW ridge.

The moraine rampart located on the left separates a convenient bivouac meadow with a small lake from the glacier. The descent to the meadow is via large talus covered with lichen, which is very slippery in the rain.

The travel time from the camp to the meadow is 3–3.5 hours.

v. Titova North Face

Bivouac

From the base camp located below Boris Peak, move towards Druzhba Pass between v. Blagoeva and v. Titova. Initially, walk along the moraine, which consists of medium and large talus, then proceed along the glacier under the slope of v. Titova (2 hours). The route passes through the center of the wall.

Ascend under the bergschrund simultaneously on snow. Cross the bergschrund using snow bridges. From the bergschrund, move straight up:

• 2 ropes with linked teams using pitons,
• 6 ropes with piton belay and linked teams.

This part of the route features ice under snow with a slope of approximately 45°. On the last rope, move not straight up, but deviate to the right where it is less steep. Reach a gentle slope, then ascend to the pre-summit ridge simultaneously. Further, ascend to the summit via несложным скалам. The ascent from the foot of the peak takes 3 hours.

Descend along the ridge to Druzhba Pass via a 2A category route (2 hours), then descend in crampons below the bergschrund, crossing it via snow bridges. Move along the glacier under the slopes of v. Titova and return via the ascent route (2 hours).