ASCENT DOCUMENT

2.7.68

1. Ascent category: combined
2. Ascent area: ridge — Caucasus, Tsey Valley, Kalper ridge.
3. Peak, height, route, route characteristics: Lagau, 4064 m via Western ridge
4. Proposed category: 2B
5. Pitons used: six
6. Route characteristics: height difference 600 m, average slope 30°.
7. Duration: 10 hours
8. Number of nights:

222. Lagai (4124 m) via the Northwest slope (K. Barov's combined route, category 4A). From the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4-8 people), ascend along the trail on the left bank of the Skazdon River. After passing the "Green Hill," climb the moraine that turns left. From the end of the moraine, traverse a wide scree slope to the left to reach a small plateau below the Northwest slopes of Lagai. Set up the initial bivouac on the plateau. The journey from the CSP of the Tsey region takes 4-5 hours. From the plateau (depart at 3:00 due to rockfall risk in the lower section of the route):

• Ascend a steep, potentially snow-covered scree slope in a wide couloir to reach three rock buttresses separated by narrow, steep snow and ice couloirs, to the right of the steep, rugged snow and ice slope of Lagai.
• From here, climb simple to moderately difficult rocks on the middle buttress ("loose rocks"), bypassing gendarmes on the left, to reach a platform on the left saddle.
• An alternative ascent to the saddle is possible via a couloir on the left, but it is more prone to rockfall. The journey from the initial bivouac takes 2-4 hours. From the saddle, ascend rocks of moderate difficulty, then a 200-220-meter snow and ice slope (avalanche and rockfall risk), to reach a col formed by ice falls from the glacier on the left and a rock belt wall on the right. From under the col:
• Climb 120-150 meters to the right and upwards on steep, slab-like, destroyed, and icy rocks of the belt wall, with moderate to above moderate difficulty ("loose rocks" - piton protection);

Moscow Order of Lenin Aviation Institute

named after Sergo Ordzhonikidze

Ascent

to the summit of Mamisong Khokh via the right edge of the North face (approximately 5B category of difficulty) First ascent. Group leader: V. Obruchnikov. Coaches: Master of Sports of the USSR L. Puchkov Master of Sports of the USSR M. Zinin

APPROVED CHAIRMAN OF THE VORONEZH REGIONAL COUNCIL OF DSO "ZENIT" A. PERSHIN "22" November 1972

Report

on the ascent of the Voronezh Regional Council of DSO "Zenit" team to the summit of Mamisong-hokh — 5B cat. dif. (4358 m) The ascent was made in the technical class competition for the primacy of the Central Council of DSO "Zenit".

IV. Route description

July 24. Departed from "Torpedo" tourist center at 5:00. Followed along the Tsey-don River to the Tsey Glacier, then ascended the glacier, passed through the "sheep's foreheads" and Khitsan pass, and reached the snow plateau of the North circus of the Tsey Glacier near the peaks of Mamisong-hokh and Changahi-hokh. Set up a bivouac on the snow plateau in front of the central ridge of the north wall of Mamisong-hokh, from where the route was conveniently observable. Directly in front of us was a snow slope descending from the ridge leading to the eastern summit. The base of the slope was broken by a wide bergschrund with high vertical walls.

74. Mamison via North Buttress

(combined route, category III, 5A) In early morning, the plateau under the North wall should be crossed towards the saddle between the peaks of Mamison-khokh and Chanchakhi-khokh. After starting to ascend the large oblique snowfield, cross the depression in the area of the snow bridge, and come out onto a steep snowy slope, trying to stay closer to the rocks, using them as shelter from falling rocks. Having reached the oblique snowfield, one needs to move under the overhanging rocks. The oblique snowfield is a steep icy slope covered with a layer of snow. Belaying is done using rock pitons. Having passed to the right along the snowfield, at its end descend level with the lower ledge. The central snowfield is ascended straight up. The steepness requires maximum caution, as the snow is very loose and shallow. Having ascended the snowfield, move into the left couloir, where the snow merges with ice-filled sections, forming huge icy icicles. Having climbed 50–60 m along the rocks, turn down, bypassing the overhang, and again ascend up the 100-meter wall. When passing, it is necessary to exercise extreme caution, as there is a threat of collapse of the delaminated slabs. Belaying is done through pitons. Under the wall, there is an icy ledge on which a bivouac for 4 people can be arranged. From the bivouac site, the path goes along a vaguely defined inner angle to the southwest wall, from there, traversing left, reach a narrow couloir. It starts with wet, overhanging rocks. Further on, three rope lengths of rocks are somewhat easier. Then a long groove is overcome, a small, crumbly wall is attacked head-on, and finally, one reaches the snowy pre-summit ridge. From the summit, the descent is made along the path of category IV, 4A.

Mamisontskyi via North Buttress, 5A cat. dif.

17

Report on the First Ascent of Mamison-khokh Peak via the North Face to the Eastern Peak of Mamison-khokh (left edge) approximately Category 5B difficulty

Mamison-khokh Peak is located in the Main Caucasian Range between the peaks of Chancha-khokh (4461.0) and the Ronketti massif (3982). To the east of the Main Mamison-khokh Peak, a spur extends, dividing the Tsey Glacier into northern and southern cirques, which contain:

• Eastern peak of Mamison-khokh;
• Nikolaev Peak;
• Khitsan-khokh;
• Khitsan Pass. The North Face of Mamison-khokh Peak drops into the northern cirque of the Tsey Glacier with three distinct edges (see photo).

MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION OF RUSSIA RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION Classified 5А+ Protocol № 229 dated November 20, 1964 80

Ascent Passport

1. Category: ice and snow climb
2. Caucasus, Tsey Gorge
3. Mamisong, 4358 m, via the left icefall of the north face
4. Proposed route — Category 5B difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain: 780 m, route length 1060 m. Length of Category 5B sections — 380 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 60° (3820 m — 4140 m).
6. Ice screws used: 89
7. Team's climbing hours — 7, days — II.
8. No overnight stays.