Description

Ascent from the north to p. Khosilot 2B cat. sl. and descent along route 1B cat. sl. I. Climbing Area. p. Khosilot (4650 m) is located in the Yaghnob Wall area.

• To the north, from the summit to the Ledovyy col between the Eastern peak of the Yaghnob Wall and Khosilot, lies a glacier.
• To the northeast, a steep ice-rock ridge descends into the Yaghnob river valley.
• To the west, a rocky ridge stretches, ending in 200-meter sheer cliffs.
• The southern slopes of the peak are more eroded and drop down with sheer walls and wide ledges to a nameless col.

133

Ascent to the peak Hyrс from Vorobьиный Pass – Cat. 3A

The ascent to the summit is done from the "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac located below the peak Bivaчная. From the camp, one should go up along the stream flowing from the cirque of the peaks Khamsai, Ular, Hyrс, and Kulay Dzhovanon, to the old lateral moraine of the Ular glacier. From the moraine, ascend the snowfield (25–30°) to the Ular glacier plateau, from which exit to Vorobьиный Pass. Hyrс is a strongly serrated ridge with large differences in altitude. It is composed mainly of gray granites. The main summit is located in the middle, towering above the others. The ridge is sharp with sheer walls, stretched in the meridional direction. The ascent to the ridge begins from Vorobьиный Pass along the eastern snowy slope (25–30°) of the spur extending from the main ridge to the pass. It is better to enter the spur from the pass slightly to the left. From the snowy slope, exit onto the rocky spur (good holds, 25–30°) and ascend directly upwards for 120 m to the ridge with a snowy cornice overhanging to the west. Belaying is done through ledges. Further movement occurs along the ridge to the left towards the south. After passing the cornice, go left of the ridge, first on snow for 60 m, then ascend a 6 m high rock wall. Here, piton belaying is organized. From here, go 20 m on snow, and then on rocks with a gradient of 30–35° with good ledges and holds to exit below a 5 m long snowy cornice hanging from the ridge to the left (east) with a small overhang. The cornice is bypassed on the left under overhanging icicles. Belaying is done through ledges. Further, go on snow with alternate belaying (steep, wet snow — 180 m) to a gendarme with a flat top. The gendarme is ascended head-on. Belaying is done through ledges. After the gendarme, exit onto a snowy col, leaving a small sharp gendarme to the right.

Report

on the ascent of the group

from the alpcity of Magnitogorsk

to the summit 4150 m via the Western ridge

Magnitogorsk

2012

Leader: Makarova Ekaterina Gennadyevna, 455023, Magnitogorsk, Lenina ave., 55, apt. 57, e-mail: katyushka90@rambler.ru, tel. (3519) 23-94-08, 89090923981 Coach: Igolkin Viktor Ivanovich, 455000, Magnitogorsk, Lenina ave., 37, apt. 23,

INTERNATIONAL ALPINISM AND TOURIST CENTER "VERTIKAL-ALAUDIN" www.fanyvertical.ru

V. Alaudin, 3B, via North-West wall (route by O. Solovey, 79)

Approach: a) through Alaudin pass, then through the saddle between v. Alaudin and Borcov za Mir to the rocky saddle of the North ridge (Djanat pass). b) from the lakes along the scree slopes of the Eastern wall directly to the saddle of the North ridge. R0–R1: From the saddle slightly down and then to the inclined shelf. Along the shelf (medium difficulty rocks) exit to a large scree shelf. R1–R2: Along the shelf to the right 10 m under a small wall. R2–R3: Ascend the wall, protection at the protrusion. R3–R5: Along the scree shelves 2 ropes of 40 m - traverse to the right. Piton protection is difficult - destroyed rock.

5.3.73 78

USSR Championship in Traverse Class

Report

on the traverse of Maria Peak (4970 m) — Mirali (5180 m) — Chimtarga (5487 m) — Energiya (5105 m) with ascent to Maria Peak via the northwest wall by the team from the Belarus Republican Committee for Physical Culture and Sports

Route Description

July 21–22 The entire group with observers gathered under the wall. The Lozovsky–Nogotov team started processing the route. They fixed two ropes. The group departed at 5:30 AM. Within half an hour, they crossed the glacier and approached the rope. The first two ropes traverse zigzagging to the right, then to the left along a crevice through steep, smooth rocks resembling "ram's foreheads" (0–1), and lead to a ledge under an overhanging wet section of the wall, approximately 5 m, with a crack. The first climber goes without a backpack; the rest follow on jumar ascenders for 40 m along the wall (1–3). Backpacks are pulled up. Those who wish can ascend with their backpacks on jumar ascenders. They completed this section by 10:00 AM. Ahead, a wide, inclined, wet chimney is visible. They bypass it on the left (3–4) and enter a second, smaller chimney with a plug (not visible from below), which leads out onto the wall. Again, very difficult climbing: Lozovsky goes without a backpack; the others follow on jumar ascenders with their backpacks; a couple of backpacks are pulled up (4–5). The general direction of movement is up and to the left towards the main couloir, almost a chimney, which bisects the lower half of the wall from the glacier to the "nose" — a large block in that part of the wall where a gentler section is discernible. The rocks are blocky; climbing is of medium difficulty, but there are very difficult vertical sections 5–7 m long (5–6).

It seems logical to avoid these walls and go around them, even though the ice in the upper part is steep, because the rocks here are heavily destroyed and climbing them is not pleasant. After reaching the ridge, it is necessary to change into shoes with rubber soles, as trekking boots do not hold at all on the limestone rocks that make up the summit rocks. The first two ropes along the ridge pass through heavily destroyed rocks, with short walls in some places. We come to a 30-meter wall, which we climb through a crack in the middle part. The crack can be approached via an inclined rock-ice platform. After the crack, there is a platform, and on it, another rope of rocks leads to the beginning of the ice ridge running from the northeast to the summit dome. After climbing just over 5 ropes, it is necessary to change back into crampons and ice axes, as the route continues on ice to the summit. The lower part of the ice ridge is a system of muldas and vertical ice walls up to 4-6 m high, bounded on the left by rocks that drop down steeply to the southeast, and on the right by a steep (up to 60°) ice-snow slope of the pre-summit ridge. After 80 m, we reach a relatively gentle part of the ridge. Now there is also snow and ice on the left, with a mulda below. We ascend along this ridge, moving simultaneously, to the pre-summit plateau, and from there to the summit. The length of the upper part of the ridge is about 120 m. The pre-summit plateau is a wide rock bowl filled with thawed ice, with talus shelves on the left. It is possible to spend the night here. It takes 15-20 minutes to reach the summit from here. The descent from the summit is in the direction of the pass between the peaks Zindon and SOAN.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: High-altitude technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Zarafshan Range, Fann Mountains
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Chimtarga, 5498 m, via the Eastern Counterfort
4. Expected difficulty category: 4B category, combined
5. Route description:
   • Ridge height difference (by altimeter) – 1300 m
   • On the ridge, there are 5 walls with a total height difference (10 m, 40 m, 25 m, 30 m, 40 m) – 145 m and an average steepness of 70°
   • Length of sections:
     • 5 km — 10 m

Route Description

Ascent to v. Malaya Ganza via the northwestern ridge, category 2B. From the base camp, move up the valley along the left (orographic) bank of the Arg river. Cross the Suvtor river, which flows from the northwestern glacier (1 hour's walk from the camp), and continue along its left bank to the Yashnovaya river (30 minutes from the Suvtor river crossing). The path goes up a steep rocky scree. Move along the left (orographic) bank of the Yashnovaya river to the north, towards the "ram's foreheads" (baran'i lby). The "ram's foreheads" are steep and slippery; it's possible to move without being roped up, but with caution (snowy scree, rockfall, and heavily glaciated "ram's foreheads"):

• Snowy scree
• Rockfall
• "Ram's foreheads" are heavily glaciated Beyond the first stage of the "ram's foreheads", there's another scree slope, which is moderate and steep. To the left, the "ram's foreheads" continue as a ridge. Move up the scree slope and a cascade of waterfalls that descend from the next stage of the "ram's foreheads". Caution is necessary on this section due to rockfall and potential icefall, as the path lies beneath the tongue of the glacier.

In the up­per reaches, the val­ley is nar­rowed by snow, there are few trails. View of the summit and saddle see Fig. I. From the bivouac to Gusev's saddle — 4–4.5 hours of walking. From Gusev's saddle, move straight up in the direction of and along the ridge between Pik Chyorny and v. N. Ganz. At the glacier's ascent, there are many hazardous sections on the ridge, partially covered with snow. Movement without crampons is possible. One should move in rope teams, with occasional use of transverse belay. From the ridge, move left onto the snowy ascent (2 ropes), then to the summit (2 ropes), which is a rocky ridge: to the north and northeast — a firn dome, divided by a small saddle into western and eastern summits, both having small rocky outcrops. The summit drops off with sheer rocky walls to the north and southwest. Time from Gusev's saddle to the summit — 2–2.5 hours. In good weather, the summit offers a panorama of all the peaks in the Sansarsky Mountains system. To the northeast, the massive array of Bolshaya Gavza is visible, along with the spurs of the pyramid of Pik Krasnykh Zor. To the north and northeast are visible:

• Pik Chyorny,
• p. Zarnok,
• Meropo,
• v. Chintarga,
• p. Energiya,