Technical Description of the Route

2624 The description of the route from base camp "4300" to camp "Peredovoy" is given in the description of the first ascent of Pik Fikker made by a group of the Chelyabinsk expedition of the Zenit Sports Association under the general leadership of Master of Sports of the USSR Levin M.S. From camp "Peredovoy" (see photo 1 and 2), ascend along the rocks via a snow-ice slope covered with calga-spores to the ridge. The slope's steepness is 30–40°. The height gain to the ridge is 300 m. High calga-spores, especially on steep sections, ensure safe movement early in the morning. Movement is in rope teams. Time to ascend to the ridge is 1 hour. Further movement is along the ridge. The ridge is snowy, with protruding rocky outcrops, and is wide. The steepness of the slopes forming it is 40–50°. The steepness of the ridge from the point of ascent to the summit varies from 10–15° to 40–45°. Before reaching the summit, one can move along the talus or to the right along the snowy slope. Movement along the entire path is in rope teams. Time to ascend along the ridge to the summit: 1–1.5 hours. The summit is a dome formed by gently sloping snowy slopes. From the summit, a beautiful view of the surrounding panorama opens up:

• Pik Revolyutsii,
• Pik Fikker,
• Pik 26 Baku Commissars,

Ascent Certificate.

1. Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1.
2. Leonova Alekseya peak, 3381 m, via the North couloir.
3. Category 2A, first ascent.
4. The route is of a mixed nature.
5. Height difference 600 m, length 1200 m, average slope 35°.
6. Pitons used: 2 rock and wired pieces.
7. Team's travel time – 4 hours.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Group:

Ascent Log

1. Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1.
2. Nedotroga peak, 3080 m, via the Eastern ridge.
3. Proposed category 2A, first ascent.
4. The route is combined.
5. Height difference 300 m, length 460 m, average slope 40°.
6. Pitons driven: rock and wired 6 pcs.
7. Team's travel time — 5 hours.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Group:

Peak Baruun From the North Suvorkina L.D. East Sayan, 6.1

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: technical
2. Region: East Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy, Baruun-Khandagai gorge.
3. Summit: 2874 m. Peak Baruun from the North.
4. Proposed category: 1B category.
5. Route type: rock.

TOWER (2800 m) via the South Ridge Route: 1B category of difficulty All-year-round

Geographical Location

The Tower peak is located in one of the southern spurs of the main ridge of the Tunka Belki range in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, situated on the eastern side of the Zun-Khandagai River valley and closing off to the north with the SOAN peak (see diagram).

Access to the Base Camp

From Irkutsk, take a bus or drive to the Arshan resort - 218 km. From Arshan resort to the Zun-Khandagai River valley, west along the main ridge via the Tagarhoy village by car or on foot - 12 km. Then, on foot, up the trail on the right side of the Zun-Khandagai River valley to the fork of the left and right Zun-Khandagai rivers - 9 km. The base camp is located at the fork. The forest boundary is here. Plenty of firewood.

Brief geographic overview of the area, sporting characteristics

The Dомашняя peak is located in the south-eastern spur of the Tunkinsky ridge of the Eastern Sayan, which is a watershed between the Zuun-Khandagai and Baruun-Khandagai gorges. Its height is 2352 m above sea level. In the same spur, there are two unnamed peaks, 2693 m and 2678 m, and the Dinosaur peak, 2820 m, for which there are classified routes 2B and 4A cat. sl. The Tunkinsky Goltsy are the highest part of the Eastern Sayan. The highest point is 3226 m, located in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Khairym stream. The approach to the base camp starts from the Lesnichikha clearing, located 10 km from the Arshan resort, through the Zuun-Khandagai river gorge. The base camp is located:

• on the left orographic bank of the Zuun-Khandagai river
• 6 hours walk from the clearing
• opposite the Dомашняя peak
• at the forest boundary The forest boundary here is at an altitude of 1700 m above sea level.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Region: Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy, section 6.1.2
2. Peak Druzhba 2500 m via Western ridge through Lyubov
3. Category 2A (variant of Prokopieva 2A)
4. Route type: rock. Height difference: 1600 m; average steepness: 20°; total route length: 4780 m;
5. Total pitons used: 4 left behind: 0;

ROUTE DESCRIPTION to the summit of Borus via the N ridge, cat. 1B difficulty (Western Sayan, Borus Ridge) VIEW OF BORUS SUMMIT FROM THE BASE CAMP ASCENT TO OBSERVATION POINT CHARACTER OF THE ROCK ON THE R1 SECTION

The wall with cornices, the key section R2–R3, view from above The section R3–R4, view from above □ □ The summit of Кошурникова at 16:10, October 17, 2013

80. Aylama via the Northeast ridge-slope (ice and snow route, G. Wullea, cat. 4A, fig. 5, 17). From the Aylama camps (camp 44) cross (closed crevasses) the Western branch of the Aylama glacier and, along the snowy slopes on the right side of the Western branch, move towards the Eastern walls of the Aylama summit. Here, turn right and, following the center, bypass numerous crevasses of the heavily crevassed Northwest short steep branch, which flows into the Western branch of the Aylama glacier, and approach the left side of the upper part of the Northeast ridge of the summit (closed crevasses). Then:

• 500–600 m upwards, keeping to the right side of the steep heavily crevassed ice and snow Eastern slope;
• ascend to the Northeast ridge at the point where it turns into the ice and snow slope of the summit dome. From here, ascend 300–350 m up and to the right along the steep ice and snow slope, bypassing ice cliffs and drops (avalanches, ice falls). Below are the ice falls of the North wall! Then turn left and, along the gradually flattening 400–500-meter snow slope (avalanches), reach the summit of Aylama. From the initial bivouac, 6–10 hours. M. Chertkov's group ascended to the Northeast ridge from the Dykhsu glacier. Fig. 17.