43. Osh Main from the west via the couloir of the Southern ridge. The route is rocky, cat. 2B (fig. 49, 51). The length of the route is 11,000 m, ascent time is 2 h 30 min. The approach from the "Kirgizat" alp camp (group of 210 people) to the initial bivouac in the Djoldjilga gorge under the western walls of the Osh massif - see route 14. From the alp camp - 4.5-4 hours. From the initial bivouac, turn into the couloir and ascend 350-400 m along a slope of 25-40° made of fine scree (dense, compacted dust). Ascend under the scree-filled couloir descending from the South ridge of Japalan'ya peak to the southwest, to the right of the Western ridge. Then, along the fine and medium scree of the wide (40 m at the bottom and expanding to 150 m at the top) couloir (rockfall, "live" rocks) - an 800-1000-meter ascent to the Southern ridge. From the initial bivouac - 2-3 hours. On the col, turn left and along the gentle, easy, местами заснеженным, сильно разрушенным rocks and scree of the wide (200-250-meter) Southern ridge ascend to the summit of Osh. From the col - 20-40 minutes. The route on the scree slope and in the couloir is prone to rockfall!! img-0.jpeg

Northern land

Ascent Log

I. Ascent classification: technical 2. Ascent area: Fann Mountains 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: mt. Aurondagh, 4573 m, via the central part of the NW wall 4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B cat. diff. 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1374 m, average steepness — 60°, length of sections:

• R1 — 300 m
• R2 — 150 m
• R3 — 370 m

ры­же­в цве­та was not translated as per the instruction to keep the original text for non-Russian quotes/passages; however, the rest of the given text is translated as follows: Reddish-colored rock, the cliff is bypassed on the right, 20 m, 2 hooks. From the site, 3 m left-down along the shelf, under the slipping, unfolded to the left, vertical column of legs is inside the inner corner with a wide crack inside. Up the corner —

• 35 m, 4 hooks, climbing is difficult. At the top — a convenient site for belaying. These 2 ropes — the first key point of the route. Further, there is a gentle ridge with several gendarmes. Between the gendarmes, the movement is simultaneous. The first two gendarmes are bypassed, the first one — — to the right, with belaying for ledges, the second — to the left along a wide scree shelf at its base. The third gendarme is overcome initially head-on, 20 m, belaying

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technical 2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Eastern Fan Range 3. Zamok (5070 m) — via the shortest path from the wall 4. Proposed complexity category — 5B 5. Height difference of the wall section — 950 m Length of the wall section — 1115 m Total route length — 1675 m Length of sections with IV–VI complexity category — 890 m, including VI category — 275 m. Average wall slope — 67°

68

To the classification commission of the USSR Alpinism Federation

The route was included in the table according to a note made by V. Tselovakhin's group (1968), which passed the route to the ridge via Svido. (They named it via the S wall). The commission erroneously believed that both groups had passed the same route (this route — via the NW wall). The commission did not have S. Morozov's report.

• V. Shulepin
• April 20, 1984

Fann Mountains

Description of the first ascent: Skalnaya Stena peak – 5112 m, combined route via the north-west wall, 5B category of complexity. Completed on August 8–12, 1967, by a group organized by the sports club "GRANIT". Ascent leader — Master of Sports MOROZOV S.A.

Passport

Ascent to Mt. Akksu Main with ascent to Akksu North via the left buttress of the North wall (first ascent)

1. Ascent category — high-altitude and technical
2. Ascent region — Turkestan Range
3. Summit and ascent route height Akksu Main, 5355 m
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 5B combined
5. Route characteristics: Height difference 1505 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty 647 m. Average steepness of the wall section of the route (buttress) 70°
6. Pitons driven:

Ascent of the LPI team on Ak-su North peak, 5217 m, cat.6B, July 1988

Ascent Passport

1. Class — technical
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-su gorge
3. Ak-su North peak, 5217 m, via the left bastion of the North face (Kavunenko route)
4. Sixth category of difficulty, repeat ascent
5. Elevation gain — 1617 m, route length — 2230 m, length of sections with 6th cat. difficulty — 500 m, 5th cat. difficulty — 920 m. Average slope of the main part of the route — 81° (3630–4560 m), most difficult sections — 89° (3630–3760 m), 87° (4020–4370 m)
6. Pitons used (total/for climbing), * — previously driven pitons used

It is difficult, practically impossible, to capture the route profile. The ridge along which the route runs is zigzag-shaped and is blocked from the south by the towers of gendarmes. Photos taken from below, from the moraine, result in overlapping images. Photographing from Peak Domashny also results in overlapping ridge bends, plus details are not visible due to the large distance. A frontal photo captures only 1–2 nearest ascents; the rest of the ridge is blocked by gendarmes.

Approach Description

From the base camp, bypassing the southern spurs of the peak Dostoevsky to the right, ascend via scree under the southern slopes of peak Dostoevsky (5 hours from the camp). Approach the western ridge via moraine to the first long snow couloir on the left. R0–R1. Ascend the 35° 1000 m snow couloir to a saddle on the western ridge before the 1st gendarme (3 hours from the moraine). The couloir is avalanche-prone; it is recommended to pass it in the morning. Behind the saddle on the ridge is a good place to spend the night in a hollow. R1–R2. Bypass the 1st gendarme to the right. Descend 50 m to a snowy inclined ledge. Rocks with ice formations. Traverse right and upwards to a steep snow couloir. R2–R3. Ascend the couloir to a narrow saddle before the 2nd gendarme. In the narrow part of the couloir is a 15 m ice chute. R3–R4. Ascend the 2nd gendarme directly, snowy rocks. R4–R5. Descend via snowy rocks with top rope on a snowy cornice. R5–R6. Snowy cornice turning into a snowy wall, loose snow on a smooth rock slab.

Passport

1. Technical category
2. Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range, Karavshin gorge
3. Peak 4810 via the center of the Northwest wall (Rusyaev's route)
4. 6B category difficulty
5. Height difference: 1160 m, length: 1568 m Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 1218 m, average steepness of the route — 67°, average steepness of the main part of the route — 74°.
6. Pitons used: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | | :--: | :--: | :--: |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge
3. Peak 4810 m — via the "mirror" of the 3rd wall. KTMGV 5.4.
4. Proposed complexity category — 6, first ascent
5. Height difference — 1150 m including: wall — 885 m. Length — 1730 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1320 m, including: 6th category — 1250 m (elevations 3650–4535 m). Average steepness of the wall section of the route — 74° (3650–4535 m).