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Ascent to the summit via the southern ridge, a technically challenging route that requires mountaineering experience and ice climbing skills.

Report on the First Ascent of the Route to the Summit of Kush-Kaya via the NW Wall

5B category of difficulty

Team Leader — Andrey Martynov (1st sports category).

Coaches — N.V. Kurilskaya (Candidate Master of Sports), V.A. Shadrin (Master of Sports).

Contents

  1. Introduction
  2. Information about the Area
  3. Route Characteristics
  4. Itinerary
  5. Technical Description of the Route
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Description of the ascent route to the summit Galaktion Tobidze (4000 m) via the southern ridge, category of complexity 3B, length 2780 m, elevation gain 1660 m.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Ascent category – combined
  2. Ascent area:
    • from Kitlod pass
    • to Gezevcek pass
    • Main Caucasian Range, from the South
  3. Galaktion Tobidze Peak Height 4000 m Ascent route via the Southern ridge
  4. Suggested category of difficulty — 3B
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Report on the ascent of the Demchenko CSKA team to the 3984 m peak via the Western ridge, Central Caucasus, Khostan-krest ridge, first ascent of category 3A complexity.

MOSCOW ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING FEDERATION

Report

On the ascent of the CSKA team named after Demchenko

To V. 3984 m. Working name — Pik Sokolovoy (Sokolova) Central Caucasus, Koshtan-krest ridge (43°02′42.23″ N. 43°15′46.61″ E) via the Western ridge First ascent presumably 3A category of difficulty Zaryaev V.V. — Galimzyanov T.R.

Dedicated to Ekaterina Sokolova (1984–2014)

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Climbing Mount Everest via the South Col: route description, key difficulties, and necessary skills for a successful ascent.

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Ascent to the summit of Archimedes from the northwest via the couloir, complexity category 3A, recommendations on equipment and organization of the ascent.

10. Archimedes from the north-west via couloir — category III difficulty (V. Ryazanov, V. Benkin, A. Ryabukhin, V. Samokhvalov, and V. Chernov — July 8, 1961). The path from the Bezengi alpine camp to the left-bank moraine of the Maly Ukyu glacier behind the Southern counterfort of the Ukyu peak summit see in description 3. Immediately behind the Southern counterfort of the Ukyu peak, [move] right to a large scree and, in its lower part, partially snowed couloir that is snow-ice in its upper part (rope up! the couloir is prone to rockfall). 60–70 m up the rocks on the right side of the couloir, then traverse the couloir left and 60–65 m up the rocks on the left side (beware of streams!). Above the couloir's mouth, from under the slabs, move to the right side of the couloir and exit to the North-West

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Report on the first ascent by the CSKA team led by Demchenko to the summit of Pik Drakon (3570 m) via the western ridge in the Central Caucasus.

MOSCOW ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING FEDERATION

Report

On the ascent of the CSKA Demchenko team

To the peak Dragon (3570 m)

Central Caucasus, Koshtan-krest ridge (43°02′37.87″ N, 43°17′10.62″ E) via the western ridge. First ascent. Presumably 3B category of difficulty. Galimzyanov T.R. — Zaryaev V.V.

Participants of the ascent

  1. Team leader — Galimzyanov Timur Ravilievich. 2nd sports category Coach: Kuznetsova E.V. Address: 115193, Moscow, Leninsky pr-t, 35, apt. 33.
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Description of the ascent route to the summit, including details of the passage and key points of the climb.

Dumala-Tau Zugan-Tau Koysa-Tau 4176 m Druzhba – Gidan. Category 4B, rocky traverse. 37 SECOND PART OF THE Druzba - Gidan Tau TRAVERSE. PART OF THE RIDGE. FROM Druzba PEAK TO GIDAN TAU. 1969.

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Report on the first ascent of the route of 6A category of complexity to the Itkayabashi summit via the left part of the center of the West Face.

Report

on the first ascent of the route to the summit of Itkaya­bashi 3197 m. via the left part of the center of the Western wall (proposed 6A category) by the team of Sumy region FAS from August 3 to 5, 2013. Team captain: Roshko V. I. Team coach: Mityukhin F. P.

Sumy — 2013

Addresses:

Coach Mityukhin Fyodor Petrovich, 40004, Sumy, Metallurgov str., 14/67; home phone: +38 (050) 634-34-34; work phone: 8 (0542) 61-99-64 Leader Roshko Vladimir Ivanovich

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The traverse route of the Koshtan crest from Kanakashev peak to Gerta-bashi peak, category 5A difficulty, route description, recommendations for climbers.

  1. Traverse of the Koshtan-Krest ridge from the peak of Kankashev to Gerty-Bashi with ascent to the peak Kankashev via the Eastern ridge — 5A cat. diff. (A. Naumov, E. Varfolomeev, I. Kudinov, E. Sokolovsky, V. Shutin, V. Shutov — July 16–21, 1961; fig. 34, 35). The path from the alp camp "Bezengi" to the Eastern summit of peak Kankashev see in description 102. From the Eastern summit:
  • descend 60 m down simple monolithic rocks to the snowy ridge in the failure. From the failure:
  • ascend simple destroyed rocks of the ridge to the Western summit of peak Kankashev. From the Western summit:
  • descend to the west first over simple rocks,
  • then by sports descents over slabs and steep rocks of medium difficulty to a simple snowy ridge. Further:
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Report on the first ascent of the southwestern spur of the Western ridge of Dzhailyk peak (4533 m) by the Dzhailyk alpine camp team in 1983.

REPORT

on the ascent to Mt. "Dzhailyk" (4533 m) via the Southwest Counterfort of the Western Ridge by the Dzhailyk Alpine Camp team (first ascent) Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich 1983 Alpine Camp "Dzhailyk" 360 000 Nalchik, P.O. Box 47 Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich 141 400 Moscow Region, Khimki, Aptechnaya St., 6, apt. 17 Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich

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