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Route Description: СЗ склону через ЮЗ гребень
Report on the first ascent to the peak Pamyati zhenskoi sbornoi via the South-West Ridge route, category 2B.
REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE PAMYATI ZHENSKOY SBORNOY PEAK VIA THE SOUTHWEST RIDGE ROUTE, CATEGORY 2B, BY THE ASIA OUTDOOR GUIDING TEAM ON AUGUST 9, 2019
2020 I. Ascent Passport
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Inozemtsev Eduard Borisovich, 1st sports rank. |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | Sokhatsky Alexander Ivanovich, 2nd sports rank. |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Suviga Vladimir Ivanovich. |
| 1.4 | Organization | Asia Outdoor company |
| 5.1 | Full name, e-mail | Inozemtsev Eduard Borisovich, inozemtsev.edik@yandex.ru |
| 2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object |
Route Description: ЮЗ гребню через пер. 4607
Report on the first ascent of Pik Nevidimka (4686 m) via the SW ridge through the 4607 m pass, complexity category 1B-2A.
Report
On the first ascent of the peak Nevidimka (4686 m) via the SW ridge through the 4607 m pass, category 1B-2A, by the Asia Outdoor guide team on July 29, 2023.
2023 I. Climbing Report Form
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Eduard Borisovich Inozemtsev, 1st sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Vadim Yuryevich Ivanov, 3rd sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full name of coach | Vladimir Ivanovich Suviga |
| 1.4 | Organization | Asia Outdoor Club |
| 2. Characteristics of the ascent object |
Route Description: ЮЗ гребню
Ascent description for the peak "XIV Congress of VLKSM Peak" (3465 m) via the Southwest Ridge, grade III difficulty.
4. Climbing description
for an unnamed peak, named “Peak named after the XIV Congress of Komsomol” (3465 m) via the Southwest Ridge, cat. 2B. “Peak named after the XIV Congress of Komsomol” is located in a spur dividing the upper reaches of the Sakashil-Su and Khunaly-Chat gorges (the upper left tributary of Sakashil). The first ascent was made on March 31, 1962, during the alpinada of Komsomol members from Tyrnyauz in honor of the XIV Congress of Komsomol, by a group of 4 people led by Master of Sports Chikhradze G. A. Day 1 — approach. To the bivouac — the same as the approach for ascents to “Peak of Tyrnyauz Komsomol members” and “Peak named after the XXI Congress of CPSU.” Day 2 — from the bivouac, the path initially goes the same way as to “Peak of Tyrnyauz Komsomol members” — along the right (orographic) bank of the river, but then instead of ascending the slopes to the left, you need to enter the upper floodplain, turn right, cross the river, which usually branches into several small streams here, and ascend to the old terminal moraine of the Sakashil glacier. The ascent is via coarse scree.
Descriptions of the routes to Vorozharsky and Bannyy peaks with a sketch map and indication of the difficulty category.
Toposcheme
— ROUTE TO p. VOROZHARSKOGO (35 grade) — ROUTE TO p. BANYANNY (26 grade)
Route Description: кф. Ю гребня
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Garm-Chashma (4900) via the spur of the southern ridge, complexity category 3B.
Ascent Certificate
I. Technical Grade 2. South-Western Pamir, Shakhdarin Range 3. V. Garm-Chashma (4900), via the spur of the southern ridge, combined route 4. Proposed — Category 3B complexity 5. Height difference — 700 m, length — 1350 m, length of sections with category 4 complexity — 160 m, average steepness of the wall part of the route — 55° 6. Pitons driven: rock 34/0, chocks 26/0, ice 1/0 7. Number of climbing hours — 10 8. No overnight stays
Route Description: Ю гребню
Description of a category 3B route to the summit of Kiik-Bal-Khana (5100 m) via the South Ridge in the Ishkashim Range, South-West Pamir.
ASCENT REPORT
I. Technical Class. 2. South-West Pamir, Ishkashimsky ridge. 3. Peak Kiik-Bal-Khana, height 5100 m, combined route, via South ridge. 4. Proposed complexity category — 3B. pr. 560, p. 3 18/3–86 5. Height difference 500 m, average steepness 40°. 6. Rock pitons driven 10/0, chocks 4/0, no ice or bolt pitons. 7. Climbing hours — 8. 8. No overnight stays. 9. Leader: Ponomarev D.S., 1st sports category
Route Description: левой части СЗ стены
Ascent record of Tri Bashni Peak (5527 m) via North Wall, grade 5B, first ascent in 1986.
Ascent Passport
- Class of ascent: first ascent
- Ascent area: 10-3 Pamir, Shakhdarin ridge
- Peak, height, route: p. Tri Bashni, 5527 m, via N wall, category 3
- Expected difficulty category: 5B, first ascent
- Route characteristics: height difference of the route — 1300 m, height difference of the wall section — 450 m length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 525 m, length of sections with 6 cat. diff. — 50 m, average steepness of the wall section — 78°
- Pitons used: rock bolts stoppers ice 51 (6) 88 (5) 2 (1) 12 (4)
Route Description: СЗ стене
### First Ascent of Peak 5497 via the Northwest Face In 1973, a team from the Ukrainian Committee for Physical Culture and Sports achieved the first ascent of Peak 5497 via its northwest face in the Pamir Mountains. The route is classified as category 6 complexity.
Report on the First Ascent in the 1973 USSR Alpine Championship
on the peak 5497 m via the northwest wall by the team of the Ukrainian Committee for Physical Culture and Sports From June 14 to June 23, 1973, under the leadership of Grigorenko-Prigoda Yu.I.
Brief Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics of the Object
Peak 5497 m is located in the upper reaches of the Garms-Chashma river. The first researcher of this region was botanist B.A. Fedchenko, who visited in 1904, but his research was not published. In 1931, P. Luknitsky, a Pamir researcher and participant in the Tajik complex expeditions, visited the upper reaches of the Garms-Chashma river. He made drawings and drew attention to the massif, which he called "Shatert" (Tent). The "Shatert" massif has two peaks on the left and three prongs on the right. Nearby, to the south, lies the peak Mayakovsky (photo). The area around peak Mayakovsky has been explored by alpinists, but the upper reaches of the Garms-Chashma river remained uncharted. Tourists from Kiev explored this region, made first ascents of several passes, and climbed peak Garms-Chashma (1B category). The peak is located along the ridge next to the "Shatert" massif. In 1971, the Ukrainian Council of Tourism organized a tourist expedition to the Garms-Chashma river region and invited alpinism instructors V.S. Shumikhin, V.S. Tkachenko, A.I. Vseljubsky, V.A. Bakhtigozin, and others. Concurrently, an alpinist expedition from Kharkov worked in the area. During this period, several first ascents of categories 1, 2, and 3 were made, and a detailed reconnaissance of the wall on the left part of the "Shatert" massif to peak 5497 m was conducted. Results of the reconnaissance:
Route Description: кф. ЮВ стены
Description of the ascent route to Peak 5214 via the southeastern wall buttress in the Shakhdarin ridge of the Pamir Mountains, category 5A complexity.
Ascent Log
- Technical category
- South-West Pamir, Shakhdarin Ridge
- Peak 5214 via the counterfort of the south-eastern wall, rock route
- Assumed 5A category of difficulty
- Height difference: 840 m; length: 1065 m; length of 5th category sections: 210 m; average steepness of the route: 57°.
- Pitons driven: rock 78/8 chocks 33/2 ice none
Route Description: З ребру
Description of the route category 3B to the summit Jarlam Centralnaya (3160 m) via the third edge with a detailed analysis of the sections and technical photographs.
Ascent Passport
- Region 2.9: from Krestovy Pass to Shaviklde peak
- Dzharlam, Central, 3160 m, via 3rd ridge Geographic coordinates of the summit (latitude/longitude): 42.841989 / 44.827054
- Proposed — category 3B difficulty, first ascent (classified as 3A)
- Route type: rock
- Height difference of the route: 300 m Route length: 695 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 50°; total route — 40°.
- Number of pitons left on the route: