4. Climbing description
for an unnamed peak, named “Peak named after the XIV Congress of Komsomol” (3465 m) via the Southwest Ridge, cat. 2B.
“Peak named after the XIV Congress of Komsomol” is located in a spur dividing the upper reaches of the Sakashil-Su and Khunaly-Chat gorges (the upper left tributary of Sakashil). The first ascent was made on March 31, 1962, during the alpinada of Komsomol members from Tyrnyauz in honor of the XIV Congress of Komsomol, by a group of 4 people led by Master of Sports Chikhradze G. A.
Day 1 — approach. To the bivouac — the same as the approach for ascents to “Peak of Tyrnyauz Komsomol members” and “Peak named after the XXI Congress of CPSU.”
Day 2 — from the bivouac, the path initially goes the same way as to “Peak of Tyrnyauz Komsomol members” — along the right (orographic) bank of the river, but then instead of ascending the slopes to the left, you need to enter the upper floodplain, turn right, cross the river, which usually branches into several small streams here, and ascend to the old terminal moraine of the Sakashil glacier. The ascent is via coarse scree.
Having reached the upper terrace, you need to proceed along the stream or slightly above it, along the grassy slopes of the left (orographic) bank. Having traversed the scree under the Southeast wall of the peak, we approach the last couloir of the Southwest ridge. The landmark for the start of the ascent is a large “black stone.” We ascend via steep scree (in spring, a snowy slope with a slope up to 45°) to the beginning of the rocky couloir. We traverse about 50 m (2 ropes) along the right side of the “Big Couloir” and cross over the ridge to the left side of the “Small Couloir,” which we ascend for another 2 ropes in the direction of the snowy “tie” (in summer, there is likely no snow). Belay is via a piton. Along the “tie” — traverse left under the wall, with an exit to a saddle (3 ropes). The rocks are of medium difficulty, местами difficult and loose. The ascent along the ridge begins from a wall with pronounced ledges and steps (2 ropes). Then — a smoothed internal corner, which is overcome from the right (in the direction of travel) side, and a sharp section of the ridge — “knife edge,” which is overcome on top or by holding onto the ridge with hands and pushing off with feet against the left (in the direction of travel) wall of the slab. Belay is via pitons and rock formations. After the “knife edge,” along the upper edge of the slab, we approach two rocks under an overhanging cliff and, between it and the rocks, exit left onto the pre-summit ridge. The ridge is gentle and uncomplicated, but there are many loose rocks. From the saddle to the summit — 7 ropes. On the summit, a bust of V. I. Lenin is installed.
Descent is via the ascent route. When descending, consider the danger of rockfall along the Big Couloir.
During a repeat ascent, the ascent was started to the right of the “Big Couloir” — via a ledge and wall (4 ropes) with a subsequent traverse to the left and exit into the “Small Couloir.” This path is technically somewhat more complicated but less hazardous in terms of rockfall than via the “Big Couloir.”
Travel time:
- From bivouac to bivouac: 7–8 hrs
- Ascent from the foot of the wall to the summit: 2 hrs 30 min – 3 hrs
Description compiled by: Junior Instructor of Alpinism (D. Kuzminsky)
Photo №1. Southeast wall of Peak named after the XIV Congress of Komsomol. Southwest Ridge, cat. 2B, 3465 m. Northeast Ridge, cat. 3B.
Photo №1. Peak named after the XIV Congress of Komsomol from the Southeast (from Sakashil-Su gorge) and routes via the Southwest Ridge (cat. 2B) and Northeast Ridge (cat. 3B). Photo by Kuzminsky D. V. November 1968.