ASCENT CERTIFICATE for the summit “Peak 100th Anniversary of RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING SOCIETY” (July 6, 2001)

1. Ascent category — snow and ice climb.
2. Ascent area — Altai, South Chuya Range — Beltirdu ridge.
3. Summit — Peak 100th Anniversary of Russian Mountaineering Society. Elevation — 3655.6 m, combined route — snow, ice, rocks.
4. Anticipated category of difficulty – 2B.
5. Route description: elevation gain – 550 m, route length – 900 m. Average slope – 35°.
6. Ice screws used – 10, rock pitons – 4.

the summit of Peak V. Shumilov via the left part of the North slope 3A category, ice-snow, Barnov S.I.

Altai, South Chuya Ridge

1.3

Passport

1. Class: ice-snow.
2. Altai, South Chuya Ridge, Elangash valley, 1.3
3. Peak V. Shumilov via the left part of the North slope. Coordinates: (49°44.068′ N, 87°58.504′ E, height 3555 m according to the navigator)
4. Proposed - 3A category, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 500 m (between the summit and the intermediate camp: 744 m);

The route to the summit of Pik V. Shumilova via the left part of the North slope, snow-ice, coordinates: 49°44.068′ N, 87°58.504′ E, height 3555 m according to the navigator, approximately for c/tr. The route, view from the northeastThe route, view from the glacier View from the glacier

Passport

1. Altai, Yuzhno-Chuysky Ridge, section KMGV 1.3
2. p. Deva Mariya, 3650 m, snow-ice climb from the N.
3. Proposed category: 3A, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Elevation gain: 1435 m (by altimeter). Route length: 2400 m. Length of sections: cat. 5 — 0 m, cat. 6 — 0 m. Average slope: main part of the route 45°, entire route 34°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total — 0, including bolted — 0.

Kara-Chad via 3rd ice slope Altai Bratkov Yu.N.

PASSPORT

1. Ice class.
2. South and Mongolian Altai.
3. Assumed 3B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Height 3500.
5. Elevation gain 700 m, l=750 m.
6. Travel time: ascent — half a day, total 1.5 days.
7. Bratkov Yu.N., 6th CU, 5-6 GR, leader Belov A.A., 5-6 CU,

The address of the group leader: Perm, Druzhby st., house No. 16, apt. No. 58, postcode 614070. Tel.: (3422) 65-16-78. E-mail: otorten@ocpi.ru. In the "Format" menu, specify the following:

• sent text
• use encoding — Cyrillic KOI8-R Korolev A. Yu. All questions related to the ascent should be sent to this address. The heights indicated in the report were determined using contour lines on a topographic map with a scale of 1:200,000.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — winter.
2. Ascent area — Altai, Mongolian Altai ridge.

Passport

1. Climbing category — rock.
2. Climbing area — Kuznetsky Alatau, Tegirtysh ridge.
3. Peak — Bolshoy Zub (2045) via the North face.
4. Anticipated category complexity — 3B, for winter conditions, the route is combined.
5. Route length — 440 m Length of sections with 5th category complexity — 60 m. Height difference — 380 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 59°. Average steepness of the entire route — 53°.
6. Pitons hammered:
   • rock — 23
   • chocks — 2

V. MUNKHU ZHIK (3577) via N glacier "tie" from N col - 4B cat. diff. sec. R0–R1: The route starts under the ice "tie", left of the center; a firn slope gradually gains steepness. The passage is made in crampons; in the upper part, the firn disappears. sec. R1–R2: The steepness increases; the passage is made in crampons on front points with the help of ice axes. approx. 45° E 12

Brief Description of the Route Approach

From the base camp, ascend along the trail in a southerly direction until reaching the high-altitude rocky plateau (1 hour). Cross the plateau in the direction of peak Munhuluk to the southwest and descend into the Ozernoe gorge (1 hour 30 minutes). Continue along the gorge following the lakes to the south, then the gorge turns right under the northern wall of peak Munhuluk. Approach the base of the ice tie-in (1 hour 30 minutes). The route begins from a snow corrie on the left part of the ice tie-in.

Massif

Route Profile

Ascent Record

1. Region — Karakoram, Trango group.
2. Peak — Great Trango (SW), 6237 m via the bastion of the northwestern wall.
3. Proposed — 6B cat. dif. (ED VI+, 7a, A3), first ascent.
4. Route characteristic — combined.

5. Route Description

wall section height difference — 1830 m, route length — 2100 m, sections of 6B cat. dif. — 1050 m, 5 cat. dif. — 530 m, average steepness of the wall section — 69°. 6. Left on the route: pitons — 18, including bolted — 12; "chocks" — 1. Pitons used on the route: stationary bolted — 12, including for platform installation — 7; total ITC used — 500. 7. Number of climbing hours — 113, days — 13 (including processing).