Passport

1. Altai, Yuzhno-Chuysky Ridge, section KMGV 1.3
2. p. Deva Mariya, 3650 m, snow-ice climb from the N.
3. Proposed category: 3A, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Elevation gain: 1435 m (by altimeter). Route length: 2400 m. Length of sections: cat. 5 — 0 m, cat. 6 — 0 m. Average slope: main part of the route 45°, entire route 34°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total — 0, including bolted — 0. Total equipment used on the route: rock pitons — 0, chocks — 0, ice screws — 45.
7. Team's travel hours: 7, days: 1.
8. Leader: Plotnikov V.G., Master of Sports, 2nd cat. instructor. Participants: Cherkasov A.N., 1st sports category, 3rd cat. instructor. Tkachenko S.A., 2nd sports category.
9. Coach: Drakin A.V., Candidate Master of Sports, 1st cat. instructor.
10. Departure to the route: 5:00, July 21, 2004. Reached the summit: 11:10. Returned to base camp: 15:00.
11. Organization: Training and Sports Center of West Siberian Rapid Response Rescue Team of EMERCOM of Russia named after V.V. Zyukov.

p. Deva Mariya, shooting point #1

p. Deva Mariya, shooting point in Taralchak #2

Route diagram in USDA symbols.

Brief route description

From the camp at the mouth of the Tura-Ayuk River, move upstream along the Akkol River for about an hour. Cross the Akkol River to the right bank via the distributaries. Then ascend towards the tongue of the hanging glacier via the middle talus slope, and further up through couloirs and ridges along the left (by direction) part of the hanging glacier. The ascent from the river takes about 2 hours. When the talus slope becomes steep, transition to ice. Ascend on ice (400 m, 45°, cat. 3), then, bypassing a series of crevasses on the left, ascend to the main ridge (200 m, 35°, cat. 3). Traverse the ridge to the left (300 m, 30°, cat. 2) to the summit. Descend via the ascent route.