Moscow Alpine and Rock Climbing Federation

Report

On the First Ascent to the Summit 5368 (Peak Alexandr Gubaev)

Via the northwestern slope, category 3B difficulty Moscow, MAI Tourism Club, 2008

1. Ascent Passport

1. Region: Zaalai Ridge. Valley: Kyzylsu (East Kyzylsu Glacier). Classification table section number for 2001 — 4.4
2. Summit name: 5368, proposed — Peak Alexandr Gubaev.

Peak XIX Partezda (5920 m), approximately category 5A, northwestern spur of the western ridge For the Leningrad city championship in the ice and snow class Team coach Master of Sports Stepanov I.V. Leningrad 1982

• Traverse by the Leningrad State University team: Peak XIX Partezda, Peak Spartak, Peak Lenin, Peak Razdel'naya

Route diagram according to ΦΙΛΑ

REPORT

on the traverse: Peak 6852 m – Lenin Peak (7134 m) – Razdelnaya Peak (6148 m) with ascent to the southwest edge of Peak 6852 m from Maly Saukdara Glacier by the group of the Turkestan Military District. (July – August 1967) From July 22 to August 9, 1967, a group from the Turkestan Military District was in the area of Lenin Peak. The group completed the traverse: Peak 6852 m – Lenin Peak – Razdelnaya Peak, making the first ascent of Peak 6852 m via the southwest edge from Maly Saukdara Glacier. Team members: leader: Popov V.I.; participants: Artyukhin S.I. – deputy leader, Zapeka V.N.

• Kondrashov I.V.
• Ilyinsky E.T.
• Toporkov A.D.
• Golodov Yu.F.
• Putintsev A.V.

Ascent Log

1. Zaalaysky Ridge, Pravy Kichkesu glacier, TurkVO area, section 4.4/2008
2. In-Yan Peak (our name), 4935 m, via NW wall.
3. Proposed category: 2A, first ascent.
4. Snow and ice route.
5. Height difference: 400 m. Distance: 600 m. Average slope of the main part of the route: 45°.
6. No equipment left behind.
7. Climbing time: 3 hours.
8. Leader: Koshelenko Yu. — Master of Sports.

ASCENT ROUTE DESCRIPTION TO PEAK KORZHENEVSKOGO VIA THE NORTHEAST RIDGE FROM NAZAROV GLACIER 5A cat. dif. (first ascent) July 1961. Pamir

Brief geographical characteristics of the area

Peak Korzhenevskogo, 6005 m high, is located in the Trans-Alay Range. To the east of the summit is Peak Biletsky (6075 m), to the west - Peak VMF (5842 m). The northern slopes of Peak Korzhenevskogo are the sources of the Nazarov Glacier, the northeastern ones - the sources of the At-Jaylau Glacier. The southern slopes of Peaks VMF, Korzhenevskogo, and Biletsky adjoin the Uy-Su Glacier. The first ascent to Peak Korzhenevskogo was made in 1951 by a group led by Nozdryukhin V. via Peak VMF. The route was rated as 4B cat. dif. From Peak Korzhenevskogo, a long ridge extends to the northeast, covered with a powerful ice-snow cover on the northern side. Along this ridge, from July 26 to 29, 1961, participants of the high-altitude gathering of the CS SDSO "Burevestnik" made the first ascent to Peak Korzhenevskogo.

Route description

From the base camp, located 2 km from the tongue of the Korzhenevsky Glacier, the path passes along the right bank of the Dzhakay-Dartak River, then along the stone-covered glacier, sticking to its left (in the direction of travel) side.

Route Description

to the summit of Peak named after the newspaper "Krasnoyarsky Rabochy" (6042 m) via the western counterfort. The group consisted of 8 people:

1. Kokorev V.I. — leader
2. Milko V.B. — participant
3. Rozhalskaya G.K. — "Krasnoyarsky Rabochy"
4. Tumovich S.D. — "Krasnoyarsky Rabochy"
5. Shturma G.V. — "Krasnoyarsky Rabochy"
6. Shalygin A.A. — "Krasnoyarsky Rabochy"
7. Braverman V.L. — "Krasnoyarsky Rabochy"

Description

First ascent to the summit 5280 m (Peak N. Kuznetsova) The summit 5280 m is located in the northern spur of the Trans-Alay range between the summits:

• to the south — Peak Metallurgov Urala, 5150 m
• to the north — Peak Sverdlova The route begins from the intermediate camp at 3800 m of the Sverdlovsk jubilee expedition. The 3800 m camp is located on an old grassy moraine near a small lake in the upper reaches of the Kок-knik valley. Directly from the 3800 m camp begins:
• a steep fine scree;
• easy, crumbling rocks. On the way, there are several gendarmes with very crumbling rocks of medium difficulty:

First ascent of the route to Peak Sverdlova (5400 m) via the eastern counterfort through the summit 5280 m. Peak Sverdlova, 5400 m high, is located east of the Ters-Agar pass in the ridge branching off the main Trans-Alay range to the north. Approach to the route: from the Amrug-Kurgan settlement, head southeast for 35–40 km to the Kок-Kyik gorge. Follow the wide valley on the right side (orographic) of the river to the confluence of the right tributary. Cross to the left bank of the left component of the river; continue along the Kutasov trail to a small lake on an ancient moraine (altimeter reading 3800 m), where the route begins. The ascent starts on fine scree with uncomplicated, ruined rocks. After 2 hours, several gendarmes are encountered:

• the first gendarme is passed head-on,
• the second — from the right, with piton protection,
• subsequent ones are passed head-on with protection via ledges. From an elevation of 4400–4500 m, the route follows deep snow; movement is simultaneous. It is advisable to set up an overnight camp at an altitude of 4800 m, after 5–6 hours of travel. From a flat area on the ridge (4800 m), a steep ascent begins on snow in the direction of a narrow rocky ridge, which is bypassed on the left. The snow is loose and deep. From the middle of the rocky ridge, the steepness increases sharply (up to 50–55°). The most challenging section of the route (5–6 pitches) is the final push before reaching the pre-summit ridge. Movement is significantly hindered by ruined, schistose, flaky rocks covered with patchy ice and shallow snow. Protection is via ice screws and step cutting. The exit to the pre-summit ridge is to the left of the topmost part of the rocky ridge.

Ascent Logbook

1. Ascent Category: High-altitude technical
2. Ascent Area: Pamir, Zaalaysky Range
3. Ascent Route with Summit Elevations: Kyzyl-Ogyn 6679 m via the eastern wall
4. Ascent Characteristics:
   • Elevation gain: 6679 m – 4600 m = 2080 m
   • Average slope of the Eastern wall: 55°
   • Average slope of the entire route (across the plateau): 40°
   • Length of complex sections during ascent: 2285 m
5. Pitons Used:

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT BASHNYA 2930 m VIA THE SW COULoir, CAT. DIFF. 1B by the GSK Upravlenie alpinistskikh lagerei team from April 26 to 26, 2024

I. Climbing Passport

№	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Chikin Artem Borisovich CMS
1.2	Full name, sports rank of participants	Gayunov Alexander unranked, Plyuta Dmitry unranked
1.3	Coach's full name	Yakovenko A.N.
1.4	Organization	GSK UAL
2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object