1. Climbing category: combined.
2. Climbing area: N. Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Talgar base camp.
3. Peak, its height, climbing route: Yuzhny Talgar, 5020 m, SW wall, center.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 900 m, length of 5th category difficulty sections 200 m, average steepness 45°.
6. Pitons driven: for belay, for creating Intermediate Technical Support (I.T.O.). | rock | 53 | IV | |------------|----|----| | ice | – | – | | bolt | – | – |

Ascent Log

1. Sports organization: Republican Climbers' Club of the Kazakh SSR.
2. Ascent classification: Technically challenging.
3. Assault leader: Akinenkov M.V. — Candidate Master of Sports.
4. Participants: — Belovol E.V. — 1st category, Denisov V.G. — 1st category, Popenko Yu.S. — 1st category.
5. Peak name, height: "Yuzhny Talgar", 5017 m.
6. Geographical area: Trans-Ili Alatau, Tian Shan.
7. Route: South-West wall.
8. Route height: wall section height difference — 520 m, including most challenging sections — 450 m.
9. Difficulty category assessment — 5B.

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau.
3. Ascent route indicating peaks and their heights: Southwest wall of Peak Yuzhny Talgar — 5000 m.
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • elevation gain 1000 m
   • average steepness 65°
   • length of complex sections 650 m.
5. Number of pitons hammered in — 68.

Talgar (SE)

Brief geographical location and sports characteristics of the object. The unnamed peak with a height of 4600 m, or now known as peak "Daugava" as named by the Latvian national team after their ascent, is located in the North Tien Shan, in a spur branching off to the northwest from the main ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau. In this spur, situated south of the Talgar massif and separating the Kroshka glacier and North Talgar, there are two peaks:

• peak "Trud"
• peak "Daugava" The northwest slope of peak Daugava drops to the north as a steep wall. Bounded on both sides by large icefalls, it presents three separate walls and several difficult-to-overcome sections in the middle part of the route. The northwest slopes are hardly ever exposed to sunlight and are battered by strong winds. As a result, there is a lot of ice on the route, and in the upper part, a lot of loose snow covering both ice and rocks. The height of the wall is 950–1050 m.

Characteristics of the area

The North Tien Shan is characterized by an abundance of snow and ice, resulting in many snow, ice, and combined routes. The action of glaciers is very pronounced. There are many moraines that block the path and hinder approaches. As a result of intense melting, the water level in rivers changes significantly. This factor must also be considered when planning ascents. The best time of year for sports ascents is considered to be July–August, although exceptions can occur. The group was based in the Talgar mountaineering camp, located in the Middle Talgar gorge, 43 km from Almaty. From the transshipment base to the camp is a 9 km pack trail. Furthermore, most approaches from the camp to the ascent objects take one day's journey. The approach to peak Daugava took 6 hours.

Reconnaissance work

Tian Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau Range

TALGAR (Main Peak), 4973 m, via the west face of the North Peak from the North Talgar Glacier (Pelevin's route) 5B difficulty category. Team of the "Malachite" sports club. Team captain - Vladimir Ivanovich YUSHKEVICH, 1st sports category. Team members:

• German Petrovich AVERYANOV, Candidate Master of Sports
• Alexey Vladimirovich ARTAMONOV, 1st sports category
• Boris Vladimirovich DAUTER, Master of Sports
• Sergey Borisovich LYAKHOV, 1st sports category

World Climbing Championship High-Altitude Technical Class National Team of the Republic of Kazakhstan

Peak Trud, 4635 m via the west face, 5B cat. diff. (first ascent)

General photo of the summit

Taken from Kroshka glacier on May 26 at 19:00

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge:

Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Middle Talgar

2. Summit name, route name:

Tuyuksu 2B cat. via North-West ridge

Route description.

The route along the north-western ridge to the Tuyuksu peak is clearly visible from the Molodezhny glacier moraine. The approach to it is through the Tuyuksu glacier to the confluence with the Tuyuksu Igly glacier. Along the right lateral moraine of the Tuyuksu glacier, approach the north-western ridge of the peak. The exit to the route is along the middle part of the slope — less prone to falling rocks. The first 50 m are overcome with crampons. The steepness here is about 45°. Further ascent continues with a deviation to the right, bypassing the steep ice front with a large number of crevasses, along a 200-meter ice slope with a steepness of up to 50°.

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Ascent Description to Peak Gagarina via

Verchina Uglovaya (Peak Pravdy)

Verchina Uglovaya is located in the upper reaches of the Kargalinskoye gorge. The summit stands somewhat apart, west of the peaks that make up the Kargalinskaya horseshoe. From Verchina Uglovaya, the Main Ridge branches off to the north, ending at Peak Pervomayskiy. Uglovaya peak is named so because it is located in the southwest corner of the horseshoe. The height of the peak is 4100 m. The route begins from the Kargalinsky glacier, where the climbers' camp is located. You should move along the glacier, leaving Peak 3950 m to the right (in the direction of travel), with a subsequent exit to the saddle between Verchina Uglovaya and Peak 3950 m. The ascent to the saddle is via a snowfield, and in the upper part - via scree. The path along the ridge to the first ice ascent is straightforward. The exit to the summit itself is via a steep glacier from the north.

Ice and rock sections of the route:

• The first ascent is 40 m. It is more convenient to go along the right ice part of the route via a rocky ridge. Steepness is 60°, in the upper part - 70°–75°. Insurance through ledges.
• The second ice section is a continuation of the first. Steepness 60°–65°, length - 30 m. You should go with insurance via pitons and chopping steps. In July, there is compacted snow in these areas, and it is not necessary to chop steps.
• The final section is an ascent along moderately difficult rocks to the summit tower (60°).

I. Climbing category — rock. 2. Climbing area: Tian Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloalmatinskoye gorge. 3. Peak, its height, climbing route: p. Uчитель (Teacher), 4030 m, Southwest counterfort. 4. Estimated category of difficulty — 4B. 5. Route characteristics — rock route, height difference 400 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 115 m, average steepness — 70°. 6. Number of pitons: rock — 32 (including 4 for creating intermediate belay anchors); ice — not used; bolt pitons — not used; clamps — 2 pieces. 7. Number of climbing hours — 13 (including 3 hours spent on route preparation). 8. Surname, first name, patronymic of the leader, participants, their qualification.

1. Shapovalov Valery Nikolayevich — 1st sports category (leader)
2. Merkeev Sultan Nurtayevich — 2nd sports category (participant)

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — South-Western Pamir, Rushan Range
3. Ascent route — First ascent via the center of the North-Eastern wall of peak 5241 m (Marshal Zhukov G.K. peak)
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • height difference 1250 m
   • average steepness from bergschrund 76°
   • wall proper 80°
   • length of complex sections 980 m
5. Number of pitons driven: