From the overnight stay 3–4 ropes along the snowy slope of the gully, separated from the main slope by a section of rocky ridge. One rope on a 35° snowy slope along the gully, then exit to rocks (belay via ice axe). On the ridge, movement along the ledge on the left with piton belay at the beginning of the path! (after one rope of difficult rocks — exit back to snow). 40 m along the snowy ridge — exit to difficult rocks: chimneys 40–50° (in the upper part of the chimney — yellow rocks). The chimney is traversed with thorough piton belay. After the chimney, one rope of easy rocks with a 20-meter slab, then broken, snow-covered rocks and a gully with flowstone ice and loose stones. Belay is difficult to organize. Above the gully:

• 2–3 ropes of the path upwards along the snowy (in the upper part — icy) ridge;
• exit to the junction of the northeastern counterfort and the eastern edge. Exit to the eastern edge:
• 20 m of steps with chopping;
• belay via ice and rocky outcrops;
• from the overnight stay — 4–6 hours. Through the breaches and destructions of the eastern edge (cornice), one rope to the entrance to the gully formed by the rocks of the southeastern counterfort and the eastern edge.

(20­–30) pitches. Further, through three ropes of difficult path along the wide snowy ridge (on the right - eaves) - exit to a small gendarme formed by the junction of the southwest counterforce with the Eastern ridge of peak "Shetor". After going around the gendarme (on the right) - exit to a sharp rocky-snow ridge. The ridges are heavily destroyed. When moving - alternate insurance through ledges. Two ropes of the ridge path lead under a steep snowy ascent, resting through 40­–50 m into the pre-summit spur of t. k. "Shotor". From peak Druzei - 1­–1.5 hours. The outer route along the wall (a difficult place) is passed first along the inner corner (8-10 m) under an overhanging stone, and then to the right under a couloir (difficult insurance). The exit to the couloir is done with the help of hanging ladders, further - along a longitudinal,

From the approach to Vetrenaya pass (for a description of the route to the pass, see the section “Ascent in the Skalisty peak massif”) - easy rock ascent to the wall. The wall is 55° steep, 50 m long, has complex rocks (10 m), in the middle of the wall it's on friction. The path goes straight up. After the wall, the path goes along the ridge for several meters, and then left up a chimney (5 m) to the shelves, along which there is an 80 m traverse. Then climb up steep sandy walls (50 m), exit to the summit. From the pass to the summit takes 2 hours. Descent via the ascent route (2 abseils), the rocks on the route are complex. From the approach to the pass to the summit takes around 6 hours.

The Table (4500 m) with an inclination of 25° on the western slope.

54

August 12, 1969 3.0. Panov's group

© A. Lorofeev

Ascent from the Purovsky glacier along the scree and talus located on the western slope of the peak to the entrance to the snow-ice couloir.

• The couloir is crossed in its lower part (highly hazardous, grade 3–4 boundary).
• Then ascend up the slopes (grade I rope).
• Then move up and to the right along the slabs and loose scree to the upper part of the wide inclined snow-ice plateau (pitons used for belay). Then traverse left — up along the ledges and the upper part of the couloir, which is to be crossed lower down. Ascend to the right along an internal corner and a crack onto a ledge, then along loose rocks and a crevice — exit under a rock beam onto a snowy plateau. After bypassing the rock beam on the left along an inclined ledge — exit onto the pre-summit ridge. Then along steep scree — exit onto the summit. Descent follows the ascent route. Ascending along the ridge via the couloir is hazardous due to rockfall.

The edge formation rests against a 40° snow-ice slope. After 8–10 m there is a large rock, where it is convenient to organize an insurance and hang a rope. Up to this point, starting from the triangular wall, it goes without a backpack. After a large rock, the ascent takes 10–15 minutes and follows a snow-ice slope with rocky inclusions to a gentle part of the edge. From here, along the ascending edge, which breaks off steeply to the north for about 200 m, it leads to a snowy shoulder under the summit. From it, along the snow-ice slope from the western side, there is an ascent to the summit of the peak. From under the triangular wall - 5 hours. The descent from the summit to the pass follows the ascent route, with the organization of 5 forty-meter "rappels" and takes 7 hours.

— Peak Kharsant (4800 m) from the OPTZ pass, 3A cat.

II — August 13, 1969. O.I. Molchardov, A.S. Mardezov, L.A. Belyaev, L.N. Shmakova, O.A. Shalya. From the OPTZ pass (the ascent to the pass — see "Ascent from OPTZ pass") an ascent up the slope and a heavily destroyed trench (variable insurance through tricky ledges and pitons). Then exit to a snow patch on the right (by the route) side of the ridge and along an inclined rock slab 80 m to a platform under a rock tower (difficult climbing, piton insurance). The further path to the summit ridge passes along the rocky wall of the peak. From the platform under the tower — traverse along ledges to a vertical rock pinnacle 10–12 m high. Ascend the pinnacle (piton insurance), then along the rocks — 2 ropes to the beginning of a large main couloir descending from the summit ridge. Many loose rocks. Ascent up the central part of the couloir (2.5 ropes) and exit to a narrow summit ridge (width 0.8–1 m). Along heavily destroyed steep rocks — ascent to the summit tower (one rope). Descent from the summit — along the ascent route to the platform under the tower, then to the right — down along rock ledges to the main couloir of black rocks, leading to a snow corrie, from the corrie — along the snowy ridge, bypassing the pass OPTZ saddle (novice climbers' descent route). Ascent to the summit from the pass — 6 hours, descent — 3.5 hours

(Admiralteets), 5090 m via the "pillar", V. Bashkirov, 85. Pamiro-Alai. Laylyak gorge area 5.4.2.2.

Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Aksu gorge, Turkestan ridge, Pamiro-Alai.
3. Peak Admiralteets, 5090 m, via the "pillar", Bashkirov route, 6A cat. diff. Third ascent.
4. Elevation gain: 1500 m. "Pillar" elevation gain — 740 m. Main part of the "pillar" elevation gain — 560 m. Total route length — 2840 m. "Pillar" length — 920 m. Main part of the "pillar" length — 600 m. Section lengths: 6 cat. diff. — 510 m, 5 cat. diff. — 340 m. Average slope of the route — 74°. Average slope of the main part of the "pillar" — 80°.
5. Pitons driven: Rock Bolt Chock Ice 152 1+34X 232 3

PASSPORT

1. Technical class
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Laylyak gorge area
3. Peak A. Blok, 5239 m, via the Southwest Ridge
4. Difficulty category — 5B
5. Elevation gain 800 m, length 1200 m, length of sections with 5–6 diff. cat. — 300 m
6. Pitons hammered: rock: 44/30; bolted: 5; chocks: 71/47; ice: 15. Previously hammered pitons used: 0.
7. Team's travel hours — 21 hours, days — 4

PASSPORT

1. Technical class.
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, AkSu valley.
3. Peak Blok (5239 m) via SW ridge.
4. First ascent, 5B cat. difficulty is assumed.
5. Length of sections: 6th cat. difficulty — 55 m 5th cat. difficulty — 980 m Average steepness of main sections: 85–90° (4670–4770, 4800–4870, 5000–5040), 80–85° (4600–4670), all of 5–6 cat. difficulty.
6. Pitons driven: rock, bolt, chocks, ice 54/14 2/2 60/3 35/0

Ascent Record

1. Technical category
2. Pamir-Alay, Kara-Su gorge
3. Peak 4437 m (Atabekova) via North Ridge, category 3A difficulty
4. Height difference 210 m from the gendarme, distance 300 m from the gendarme, average steepness 45°, average steepness of the key section 60°
5. Moving time 5–6 hours
6. No overnight stops on the route
7. Pitons driven - 6
8. Leader: Pyshkin A. V. - 1st sports category Participants: