Open XIII CIS Championship (EAMA) in Alpinism 2004

EURO-ASIAN ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING ASSOCIATION

11.3.6A

High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

on the ascent of Kongur Tagh (7719 m) at the Open XIII CIS Championship (EAMA) in Alpinism 2004 Team of the Moscow Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing Leader: Vyacheslav V. Odokhovsky Expedition Leader: Yuri V. Khokhlov

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table (2001) – 11.3 Mountain region of Kunlun (China, Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region), Muztagata massif, Kalakhong glacier.
2. Name of the peak: Peak Koskulak, 7028 m, route name: via SW ridge.
3. Category of difficulty: 5A category, approximately; first ascent
4. Nature of the route — snow-ice
5. Height difference of the route: 2100 m (according to map, altimeter, and GPS); route length – 6025 m; length of sections with 5th category of difficulty – 210 m;

1. ASCENT DOCUMENT
1	Region	Kongur Muztagh Range
2	Valley	Chimgan
3	Section number according to the classification table of 1999	11.3
4	Name of the summit	Peak Nikolaeva
5	Route name	Along the southern edge to peak 5435 and along the eastern ridge
6	Route difficulty assessment	5B
7	Route character	Combined
8	Height difference along the route	1395 m	By altimeter

Ascent Report

of the Irkutsk Region Alpine Club team to the summit of Celestial Peak (Pomiu, 5420 m) via the left edge of the East Face (first ascent) Eastern Tibet, October 2010 Angarsk — 2010

Ascent Details

1. Eastern Tibet, Champi'ng Gou valley
2. Celestial Peak 5420 (Pomiu), via the left edge of the East Face.
3. Proposed grade — 5B cat. sl., first ascent (possibly a variant of the PRC team's route)
4. Route type: rock
5. Route height difference: 1075 m. Route length: 1575 m. Section lengths: V cat. sl. — 505 m, VI cat. sl. — 220 m. Average slope: main part of the route — 60°, entire route — 55°

Report on the First Ascent of Siguniang Shan via the Northwest Wall, Presumably Category 6B

FASIL St. Petersburg Russian Championship in Alpinism 2009 in the High-Altitude Technical Class.

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Eastern Tibet, Sichuan Province, China, section 11.3
2. Peak Siguniang Shan, 6250 m, via the northwest wall.
3. Proposed category: 6B, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route height difference: 1270 m. Route length: 1667 m.

Barkova northwest peak (1186.5) Route: via the 1st buttress of the northern slope Complexity category: approximately 2Acl Leader: Goletarov A. A. Subpolar Urals, Rosomakha mountain range Section in KMSR – 8.3 E-mail: mr.zhur1958@mail.ru

Report

On the first ascent of the mountaineering route to the peak Gora Barkova northwest (1186.5) via the route: "Via the 1st buttress of the northern slope" Complexity level — approximately 2A category (rocky) at the alpinist event "Severnaya Vertikal" (joint project of JSC "Severgaztrans" and NP "Club of Northern Travels "Sauk-Pai" 2016) (Class "First Ascents").

Ascent Log

Mountain Region — Polar Urals Mountain Range — Rai-Iz mountain massif Gorge — Nyrdvomen-Shor river valley.

Section No. according to KMGV-2001 — No. 8. "Other mountain systems and massifs"

Name of the summit — 1159 (Dinozavr Glavnyy). Height — 1159 m. Route name — via the left part of the western rock massif of the northern wall of the western ridge. Category of difficulty — 3A. Route type — rock climbing. Height difference — 950 m (according to the map of the General Staff of the Russian Federation: initial mark — 199 m, summit — 1159 m). Route length — 4–5 km. Technically challenging sections — no sections of 5th or 6th category of difficulty. Average steepness of the main (technical) part of the route — 55°. Average steepness of the entire route — 45°. Pitons left on the route — none. Pitons used — 6, chocks — 12. Team's walking hours — 10. Group composition:

• team leader V. Toropov (2nd sports category, Syktyvkar)
• participant P. Bondaruk (2nd sports category, Syktyvkar)
• participant Yu. Valuzhis (2nd sports category, Syktyvkar)
• participant O. Ermolin (2nd sports category, Syktyvkar)

Ascent Passport

Region — Subpolar Urals. Ridge — Research Range. Gorge — Manaraga River valley. Spur — mountain horseshoe of the Oleniy stream valley. Section number according to KMGV-2001 — 8. "Other mountain systems, massifs". Summit name — Kruzenshtern Peak. Height — 1462 m. Route name — via the South Ridge. Difficulty category — Proposed cat. diff. 1B. Route type: combined. First ascent. Height difference — 860 m. Route length — 3000 m. Sections of 5 cat. diff. — none. Sections of 6 cat. diff. — none. Average steepness of the main (technical part) of the route — 50–55°. Average steepness of the entire route — 31°. No pitons left on the route. Pitons were not used. Team's travel hours:

• Approach from "Oleniy" refuge — 50 min.
• Ascent from "Priyut 'Oleniy'" bivouac — 6 hours. Leader: Shulepov G. G. (1st sports category, instructor 3 cat., Syktyvkar) + 6. Participants:
• Zhuravlev S. V. (CMS, instructor 2 cat.) + 10 (NP-1 department). Coach: Zhuravlev Sergey Vasilievich, CMS, instructor 2 cat. Departure to the route — 7:00, July 12, 2005. Summit reached — 13:00, July 12, 2005. Return to base camp — 18:00, July 12, 2005. Organization: Youth Interregional Scientific and Sports Expedition of Russian Germans and Alpine Federation of the Komi Republic "Polar Vertical — 2005". Exec. Zhuravlev Sergey Vasilievich, Syktyvkar, 167000, Internatsionalnaya st., 97, apt. 12. Phone 24–24–91. E-mail: Zhur58@rambler.ru. Senior coach — Zhuravlev S. V. (No. 1124).

Ascent Passport

1. Region, valley, section number according to KMGV 1.1. Region — Subpolar Urals. 1.2. Ridge — Issledovatorsky Ridge. 1.3. Valley — River valley Balbanyu. 1.4. Section number according to KMGV–2001 — 8. "Other mountain systems, massifs".
2. Name of the peak, height, route name 2.1. Name of the peak — Mt. Narodnaya 2.2. Height — 1895 m 2.3. Route name — via the northern ridge from the Balbanyu river valley

Ascent Passport

1. Region, valley, section number according to KMGV 1.1. Region — Subpolar Urals. 1.2. Ridge — Research Ridge. 1.3. Valley — River valley Balbanyu. 1.4. Section number according to KMGV-2001 — 8. "Other mountain systems, massifs"
2. Name of the peak, height, route name 2.1. Name of the peak — Narodnaya 2.2. Height — 1895 m 2.3. Route name — via Western ridge from Karkar pass