Description and General Ascent Plan

Day 1

From the base camp located on the lake shore, next to the lateral moraine of the Abdukagor glacier (altitude 4000 m), the route passes along the left-bank moraine of the glacier to the point where the Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers flow into it. Here, the moraine descends and has a convenient exit onto the ice. We crossed the merged Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers and again reached the left-bank moraine of the Abdukagor glacier, where it sharply turns southeast (1 hour). A trail along the moraine leads to a flat area with water (1 hour). Slightly above the area, we descended from the moraine onto the glacier and began to move towards the middle part of the icefall formed by the left (orographically) branch of the Abdukagor glacier (30 minutes). The path goes:

• initially to the right,
• and higher - to the left (in the direction of travel) of its middle part (1 hour). The icefall is traversed in crampons. Above the icefall, there are three not very steep rises of the glacier, alternating with more gentle sections, which lead to the pass plateau. The glacier is heavily crevassed and covered with snow. Elevation gain from the icefall to the Abdukagor pass:
• 500–600 m

ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE SOUTH COUNTERFORCE OF THE WESTERN RIDGE OF PIK A. GRIN BY A GROUP OF CLIMBERS FROM THE KUYBYSHEV REGIONAL COUNCIL OF THE “TRUD” SPORTS SOCIETY July 28–31, 1976

I. Introduction

Pik A. Grin (6525 m) is located in the upper reaches of the Fedchenko Glacier. Widespread mountaineering exploration of this area began in 1957 when participants of the “Burevestnik” Sports Society expedition, led by E. Tamm, made the first ascents of:

• Pik 26 Komissarov (6834 m), led by E. Tamm,
• Pik Parizhskoy Kommuny (6300 m), led by V. Benkin. The first ascent of Pik A. Grin was made under the leadership of V. Serebryakov in 1960 via the western ridge. Subsequently, this area was repeatedly visited by mountaineering expeditions. The most significant sporting achievements were made by expeditions led by L. Myshlyaev — the ascent of the north face of Pik Revolyutsii in 1961, and the traverse from Pik Parizhskoy Kommuny to Pik Grin, led by V. Ryazanov in 1964. In 1976, an expedition from the Kuybyshev Regional Council of the “Trud” Sports Society ascended to the upper cirque of the Fedchenko Glacier, with the following objectives:

1. First ascent of the western wall of Pik A. Grin, counting towards the USSR Alpine Championship.
2. Ascent of Pik 26 Komissarov via the western ridge, counting towards the “Trud” Sports Society Central Council Alpine Championship.

Geographic Overview

The peak of A. Grin (6525 m) is located in the Yazgulemsky ridge of the Central Pamir in the upper reaches of the Fedchenko Glacier, northeast of Peak Revolyutsii. Fairly gentle ridges descend from the peak:

• to Peak Revolyutsii
• to Peak Omar Khayyam To the northwest, towards the Fedchenko Glacier, a nearly sheer wall drops 1200 m, while to the southeast, towards the Grum-Grжимайло Glacier, very steep icy slopes descend. The area is characterized by a harsh climate, large temperature fluctuations, significant snowfall, and unstable weather. The upper reaches of the Fedchenko Glacier are difficult to access. Shuttle services typically begin from the tongue of the Abdukagor Glacier and take about two weeks. Prior to reaching the Abdukagor Pass (5070 m), all cargo was carried in backpacks. After the pass, sleds were used, which were prepared in advance in Togliatti.

I. Climbing category

• altitude-technical.

2. Climbing region 3. Climbing route with indication of the summit and its height. 4. Climbing characteristics — height difference — 1200 m, average steepness — 63°, length of the most difficult sections — 1010 m. 5. Number of pitons driven

• rock pitons — 117 Ice pitons — 12, bolt pitons — none.

6. Number of walking hours — 45.5 hours (plus 9 hours of processing).

For the USSR Championship in alpinism in the class of high-altitude and technical ascents. Peak 26 Baku Commissars via the south wall. Sports team of Tomsk Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports. Team captain and coach (G. Andreev), Tomsk, 1969.

Report

On the ascent of Peak 26 Baku Commissars via the south wall.

1. Geographical Location and Sports Characteristics of Peak 26 Baku Commissars

Peak 26 Baku Commissars, with a height of 6834 m, is centrally located in the Yazglem Ridge, which borders the Fedchenko Glacier to the south. The ridge, which descends steeply to the glacier, is at least 10–15 km long, with an average height of 6400–6800 m. The slopes are heavily covered with ice and snow. To the east, the Peak Revolyutsii (6974 m) rises, merging with Peak 26 Baku Commissars through a slight depression. In the upper reaches, the Fedchenko Glacier has a nearly imperceptible slope over a distance of 10–12 km, from its beginning to the confluence with the Vitkovsky Glacier, opposite the Abdukagor II pass, and is covered with a thick layer of snow. Along the left bank of the glacier lies the Akademiya Nauk Ridge, which is relatively low in this area. The opposite side is significantly more imposing, with many peaks above 6000 m, the highest being Peak Fikкера at 6719 m. From Peak 26 Baku Commissars, a sharply defined ridge descends northward, along which a pioneering ascent was made in 1957 by a group led by E. Tamm. Since then, several ascents have been made to the summit from the north, and in 1964, an ascent was made from the west during a traverse by a team from the Chelyabinsk Regional Sports Council of the peaks: Peak Paris Commune — Peak Revolyutsii.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. High-altitude ascent category
2. Central Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge
3. Peak 26 Baku Commissars (6834 m) via the center of the south wall
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 2550 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 1690 m. Average wall steepness — 74°
6. Pitons driven: for belaying — rock 282, ice 52, no bolt pitons; for creating artificial footholds — 59 rock, 2 ice, no bolt pitons

REPORT

Red Banner Turkestan Military District ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF "SHIPKA" PEAK 6254 m VIA THE WESTERN RIDGE FROM YAZGULEM-DARA, CATEGORY 5B The route was claimed for the primacy of the Armed Forces of the USSR in the high-altitude category. Tashkent – 1968 Shipka Peak (6254 m) is located in the upper reaches of the Yazgulem-Dara River, in the southern spur of the Yazgulemsky Range, in the ridge extending from Peak October Revolution (6974 m). The most accessible approaches to the peak are from the Yazgulem-Dara Glacier. Only one route of category 4B difficulty (approximately) had been previously laid to the peak, via the southern ridge from the col between Shipka Peak and peak 5682 m. The group believed that the most interesting and challenging route could be laid via the western ridge. Preliminary reconnaissance of the route revealed that the route to Shipka Peak is a sharply rising ridge with two horizontal sections. There are two towers on the ridge:

• the first is in the middle section, over 300 m high;
• the second, the summit tower, is over 600–700 m high.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: High-altitude technical.
2. Ascent region: Central Pamir, southern spur of the Yazgulemsky ridge in the area of p. Revolyutsii.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Pinka, 6254 m, southern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 4B category of difficulty.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1450 m, average steepness up to the exit to the southern shoulder — 31°, average steepness of the southern shoulder — 6–7°,
6. Number of pitons hammered: rock — 19, ice — 12, bolt —
7. Number of climbing hours: 15 hours.
8. Number and characteristics of bivouacs: two bivouacs at one location on a snowy ridge at an altitude of about 5700 m.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical.
2. Ascent region: Central Pamir, southern spur of the Yazgulemsky Ridge in the area of p. Revolyutsii.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Pinka, 6254 m, southern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 4B category of difficulty.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1450 m, average steepness up to the exit to the southern shoulder — 3°, average steepness of the southern shoulder — 6–7°,
6. Number of pitons hammered: rock — 19, ice — 12, bolt —
7. Number of climbing hours: 15 hours.

— 1970 — Map of the area Note: Corresponds to the 1st prodrizhno-razografia. It is necessary to indicate the overnight stays on the route and their date.