— 1970 —

Map of the area Note: Corresponds to the 1st prodrizhno-razografia. It is necessary to indicate the overnight stays on the route and their date.

Geographical location

The gathering place for the MOS DSO "Zenit" climbers in 1970 was the area of peak Revolyutsii in the Central Pamir, with the base camp located in the upper reaches of the Yazgulem-Dara valley.

The summit — peak Shipka (6254), which was to be climbed, belongs to the mountain chain stretching south from the highest peak in the area — peak Revolyutsii (6974).

On the opposite, western side of the valley, the peaks of the Yazgulem range stretch from north to south, most of which exceed 5000 m in height.

The entire area is dominated by six-thousander peaks located in the northern part of the valley:

• peak Revolyutsii,
• peak 26 Baku Commissars,
• peak Paris Commune,

on whose southern slopes the Yazgulem-Dara glacier originates, and on the northern slopes — one of the largest glaciers in the world — the Fedchenko glacier.

Climbing conditions

The remoteness (over 100 km) from large settlements and highways significantly complicates the organization of expeditions to this area.

Only in 1967 did the first mountaineering expedition of the sportsmen from CSKA arrive here, organized with the aim of studying the area and identifying the most interesting routes for ascents for the USSR championship.

The expedition obtained a lot of interesting data — photographs, aerial photographs; made the first ascent of peak Shipka via the western ridge, peak Bolgariya, and others. The large altitude difference, up to 3 or more kilometers, the steepness of the slopes, the possibility of choosing the most complex ridge and wall routes on such peaks as:

• peak Revolyutsii,
• peak 26 Baku Commissars, and others.

— all this promises great prospects for climbers.

The climatic conditions in this area are quite favorable. In the summer months — July, August — fairly stable, clear weather is observed here. However, at an altitude of around 6000 m, the wind almost never subsides, reaching 10–15 m/s, and the temperature drops to −20 °C at night.

The army expedition served as the beginning of the development of this high-altitude area by climbers. In the following two years — 1968 and 1969 — routes of the highest category of difficulty were first laid on:

• peak Revolyutsii via the southwest wall,
• peak 26 Baku Commissars from the south,
• the traverse peak Revolyutsii — peak 26 Baku Commissars was completed.

These ascents were awarded prizes in the USSR mountaineering championship.

Preparation for the ascent

The MOS DSO "Zenit" team together with the combined team of CS DSO "Zenit" arrived in the district center Rushan on July 4.

The delivery of goods and people to the location of the base camp was carried out from the Rushan airfield by helicopter, which saved us from the need to equip a slow and cumbersome caravan. On July 7, all work on the organization of the base camp was completed on a large, flat, green area at the tongue of the Yazgulem-Dara glacier, at an altitude of 3700 m.

Reconnaissance exits and training ascents were planned to:

• study the largest possible area;
• choose the most interesting routes for ascents for the CS DSO "Zenit" championship and the Moscow championship.

In addition, training ascents gave athletes the opportunity to acclimatize at high altitudes.

On July 9, the entire expedition made an exit to scout the path through the glacier and approaches to the peaks in the area of:

• peak Paris Commune,
• peak Revolyutsii,
• peak Shipka.

Two days later, a group of 5 people, including team members Kuzmin and Makhnovich, set out to climb peak 4678. In addition to training purposes, the group was tasked with conducting a preliminary reconnaissance of the area of peak Lyap-Nazar (5988) — one of the notable peaks in this valley.

Simultaneously, another group of 6 people, including team members Pugachev and Vorobyev, set out on the rocky massif ("Grebionka") in the ridge of peak 5600 on the opposite side of the valley from the camp. From here, from "Grebionka" (5100), the further path to peak 5600, located between peak 5682 and peak Bolgariya, was viewed, as well as the unclimbed southwest ridge of peak Shipka.

On July 14, a group of 4 people set out on peak Bolgariya (5666) via peak 5600. A day later, on July 15, a second group of 6 people followed the same route.

All team members were part of these groups. The ascent lasted 5 days. From peak 5600, the saddle leading to the base of the wall of peak 5682 — a peak characteristic of its sharp outlines, still unconquered by climbers — was viewed.

From July 22 to 24, Pugachev (leader), Kuzmin, and Vorobyev, as part of a group of 4 people, made the first ascent of peak 5398 in the spur of the Yazgulem range, and another group, also consisting of 4 people, together with Makhnovich (leader), was the first to ascend peak 4816, conducting a reconnaissance of the path to peak Lyap-Nazar.

Based on the results of the ascents and reconnaissance exits, the objects of ascents for the CS DSO "Zenit" championship and the Moscow championship were finally determined.

For the high-altitude and technical climbing class, a route to peak Shipka (6254) via the southwest ridge was chosen, following the path of the Leningrad group that had returned the day before (led by Kryukov).

During previous ascents and training exits, this route was sufficiently well-studied.

The following team composition was approved for the ascent of peak Shipka:

Organization of the ascent

Taking into account the specifics of the route — the presence of snow-ice, as well as rocky ridge and wall sections — we selected, in addition to standard equipment: titanium rock pitons (30 pcs), ice pitons (6 screw and 10 hook), three-rung ladders (4 pcs.), titanium crampons (2 pairs); drill (3 pcs.) and drill pitons (10 pcs.). One high-altitude tent, which had proven itself well in bad weather and strong winds, was taken for the group. The amount of food was calculated at 750 g of dry rations per person per day for 5 days on the route.

For communication with the base camp and the interaction group (leader Balakin), a portable radio station was taken, and communication hours were set — at 9:00 and 17:00; emergency communication — at 12:00 and 21:00.

The return deadline to the camp was set for August 4 at 18:00.

The entire route was divided by main sections, and the locations of bivouacs were planned, taking into account the recommendations of the Leningrad group.

Order of passage of the route

1st day. On July 28 at 12:00, the team left the base camp "3700", crossed the Yazgulem-Dara glacier in its lower part, ascended to the left-bank moraine, and continued to move along the grassy slope and scree in the direction of the southwest ridge of peak Shipka. At 17:00, having approached the ridge, they organized an overnight stay at an altitude of about 4600 m.

2nd day. On July 29 at 7:00, the group set out on the route in two teams: Makhnovich — Kuzmin and Vorobyev — Pugachev — Ivanov. Along heavily destroyed rocks (40°, 150 m) (section R1–R2), they reached the ridge, where they found a control tour with a note from the LDS DSO "Zenit" group (leader Kryukov) dated July 16, 1970. They replaced the note. The further path goes along heavily destroyed rocks of medium difficulty (section R2–R3), with complex short (5–8 m, 70–80°) walls (2 pitons). At 9:00, they approached a wall with a chimney 120 m long on the left side of the ridge. The chimney is rock-ice (with ice accretion). The first two sections, 40 m each, with a steepness of about 45°, end in walls with ice accretion, steepness 75°, 2–3 m (step cutting) (section R3–R4). They moved with thorough piton insurance (8 pitons). The upper section of the chimney (R4–R5) is gentler, wider, but the rocks are very destroyed. It took 1.5 hours to pass the chimney. The chimney leads to a ridge representing difficult rocks of slabby structure (section R5–R6) (6 pitons). Along the ridge, they approached a wall 8–10 m and then to the 2nd chimney with a plug (50°, 30 m) (section R6–R7). The plug is a slab frozen in ice. Passing the chimney is dangerous in the second half of the day (when exposed to direct sunlight). After exiting the chimney (5 pitons), they continued moving towards the characteristic rock "gates" along difficult rocks (section R7–R8) (40°, 80 m, 6 pitons). After the rock "gates", along relatively simple snow-rock ascents (section R8–R9), they approached the place where a small lateral ridge branched off, where the previous group had prepared a bivouac site. The further path was a steep snow ascent, which was impractical to pass in the second half of the day due to poor snow conditions. Using the Leningrad group's site, they set up for the night.

3rd day. July 30. They set out at 6:00. The second team went ahead. At the beginning of the path, they passed two firn ascents (sections R9–R10 and R10–R11). The first had a steepness of up to 50°, a length of 200 m, the second had a steepness of 30–35° at the bottom, and up to 50° at the top. They moved in three pitches. Insurance was provided through an ice axe. The firn ascents led to a wall of rusty rocks, 20 m high, with a steepness of up to 60°. The rocks were slick, with poor holds. They organized a belay. This section (R11–R12) was passed with piton insurance (4 pitons). They reached a relatively simple firn ascent with rock outcrops, which were bypassed on the left (section R12–R13). Further, the ridge turned left and led to a wall of black rocks (section R13–R14). The first rope length was passed on ice with insurance through ice pitons (2 pcs) towards a barely visible chimney, representing heavily destroyed rocks of medium difficulty, with a steepness of 45°. They moved cautiously — many "live" stones. Further, the path went along a snowy ridge (120 m) (section R14–R15) with rock outcrops and led to a steep snow ascent (section R15–R16) (50°, 100 m). It was overcome in three pitches. An ice piton was driven in at the top. They passed several snow-rock ascents (section R16–R17) with a steepness of up to 40°. Before the ice wall (section R17–R18), they put on crampons. This section, with a steepness of up to 50° and a length of 80 m, was passed with piton insurance (4 ice pitons). Having overcome the snow-rock ridge (30°, 80 m) (section R18–R19), they reached the intersection of the southwest and south ridges. Before them lay the pre-summit plateau. They approached the Leningrad group's site. Time — 11:30. They decided to leave the tent and move lightly to the summit. The firn fields of the summit ridge consisted of steep, up to 45°, ascents. The 3rd ascent — a firn wall 60°, 50 m — was overcome in three pitches (section R19–R20). After several, approximately equal, ascents, 30–40 m, 35–40°, at 15:30 they reached the summit. Right before them were the highest peaks of the valley — peak Revolyutsii and peak 26 Baku Commissars. It was hard to tear their gaze away from these giant walls, along which avalanches and stones constantly rolled. The strong, unsubsiding wind made them hurry. In the tour, they found a capsule with a note from the CS DSO "Zenit" group (leader Kremenov) dated July 22, 1970, who had made the ascent via the western ridge. They left their own note and returned to the site where the tent was left. They set up a bivouac.

4th day. On July 31 at 7:00, they began their descent along the ascent route. In the middle part of the ridge, they turned into a couloir (to the right of the descent path) and descended from the summit on snow and stone scree. At 13:30, the group returned to the base camp "3700".

Overall assessment of the participants' actions

The entire team was physically well-prepared. During training ascents to peaks up to 5600 m, the participants underwent high-altitude acclimatization, which ensured the preservation of their working capacity and maintained a fairly high pace of ascent at high (over 6000 m) altitudes up to the summit.

The team showed itself to be a cohesive collective, tactically competent, and proficient in a wide range of technical techniques, which was consistently demonstrated when passing the most complex sections of the route.

Conclusion

The route along the Southwest ridge to peak Shipka is combined, rock-snow-ice. Its length is 3.7 km (to the summit). The total ascent is 2800 m, on the most complex sections — 300 m.

The route corresponds to category 5A.

Team leader Members

Ascent route: Peak Shipka (6254) via the southwest ridge Altitude difference of the route: 2800 m, including the most complex sections — 300 m. Steepness of the route: 0–90°, including the most complex sections — 50–90°.

Excerpt from the protocol of the ascent review

Decision:

The MOS DSO "Zenit" team made the ascent of peak Shipka (6254) via the Southwest ridge in full compliance with the rules for conducting mountaineering events in the USSR.

To count the team's ascent to the leader — leadership. Releasing Master of Sports of the USSR Povarmin Head of the rescue team Strelnikova